sporadisch starkes Nageln, dann wieder weg | Posts 48+

Hi Holger,

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

Quote: It seems someone here doesn't want to acknowledge that the VP37 was designed as a "wear part" . "Although 93,000 km isn't exactly a lot for a VP37, is it, Bertil?"

I have seen VP37 pumps that completely failed after only 30,000 to 60,000 kilometers (which means your pump is already significantly older ).
Depending on the fuel used, this can be perfectly normal. A high water content in the fuel can almost completely corrode the pumps from the inside. I wouldn't have believed it myself. There's nothing that a coating of the surfaces can do to help anymore; the corrosion residue simply grinds away the coating.

Regarding the interchangeability of TDI and SDI pumps, I unfortunately have no information (no experience).



@Jan6K
The stress on the pumps in TDI and SDI engines is not significantly different. The pressure conditions are very similar, only the fuel quantities are lower in the SDI. Consequently, the wear and tear on the pumps should be approximately the same.

There is a new observation:

Sometimes, the behavior when manually switching the standby voltage (SBV) on and off is not reproducible.

'When I lightly tap the metal, for example, the noise suddenly becomes extremely loud. If I turn the power off briefly and then back on, the noise disappears completely. It's as if the impact driver piston was initially starting too early, and then accelerating so much that it overshoots the clamping points.' (Motor operating at a medium load).

Does the Liqui Moly dispenser have any attachments that would allow me to connect two hoses?

Best regards,

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

Does the Liqui Moly device have any fittings that allow me to connect two hoses?

Just clip the inlet and outlet hoses into the container, and that's it. It worked without any problems on my 1Z engine... but it didn't do anything.

Well, I actually thought it should be placed before the filter, so that no dirt can be sucked in. In that case, I would need two hoses.

Do you mean I should skip the fuel filter? Then it will really be simple.

I leave the filled pump standing overnight so that the substance can take effect. Hopefully, it won't immediately damage the seals , in a situation like 'operation successful, patient dead.'

Regards,
Holger.

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

Well, I actually thought of putting it before the filter, so that no dirt can be sucked in. Then I would need 2 hoses. Do you mean I should skip the fuel filter? Then it will really be simple. I leave the filled pump standing overnight so that the substance can take effect. Hopefully, it won't immediately damage the seals , in a situation like "operation successful, patient dead."

Well, Holger, you'll have to deal with that...

"So, there's definitely no dirt in the lubricant additive... so, you can skip the filter."

Letting it sit overnight is a good idea.

By the way, this additive (if it works) will flush out more dirt than you can imagine, so the fuel filter would be unnecessary anyway. The amount of dirt that gets flushed out could even permanently damage the pump. But what do you have to lose? It's a pump that's already broken!

Hi!

Things are getting serious, folks.

I was given a garage by a kind neighbor to use as a workspace.

For my project/action, I have developed a procedure.

1.) Remove the bumper, headlights, front grille, and radiator surround with the radiator to fully expose the ESP system.

2.) Remove the SBV valve, verschandeln it, and test its functionality, paying particular attention to the movement of the valve stem and the flow of liquid.

3.) Install the SBV valve and perform a test run.

4.) If unsuccessful, expose the valve lifter assembly, check its condition (are there signs of wear? corrosion? debris?), attempt to verschandeln it, and then test.

5.) If that doesn't work, remove the ESP control unit and take it to a Bosch diesel workshop. Overhaul costs approximately €400, while replacing the pump (reconditioned) costs around €800.

Since I'm not replacing the timing belt but reinstalling the same one, several markings using the paint pen on the crankshaft pulley, camshaft pulley, and eccentric shaft pulley should be sufficient.

Okay, here's my question: What tools do I need? I have a socket set with sizes 5-5.5-6-7-8-9-10-13-19-22, Allen key sockets, Torx sockets, small and large ratchets, small and large water pump pliers, pipe wrench, various pliers and screwdrivers, a crimping tool, and a blacksmith's hammer. Unfortunately, I left my regular set of open-end wrenches at my parents' house. Therefore, I would like to buy some useful/important combination wrenches. Which ones are the most important for working on an AKU (presumably referring to an Audi vehicle)? Am I missing any essential sockets or extensions?

Thank you in advance for any tips, advice, and comments of any kind.

Regards,
Holger.

Of course, I will provide you with a detailed photo story as a thank you for your feedback.

Hey everyone!

There are some issues. While it was straightforward to remove all the covers and the radiator, and I was able to safely catch the coolant.

However, I can only access the rear Torx T30 of the SBV valve flange at an angle with the Torx key because a massive support component is in the way . The loosening torque is enormous. The attempt to loosen the Torx using a key applied at an angle resulted in a damaged Torx .
By the way, the same problem occurs with the SBV cover. There, a Lima and a support piece are in the way.

Now, two Torx screws are damaged. I will either have to use a Dremel to cut out a recess in the bracket, or have a special offset wrench welded on. I'm not entirely clear yet on how to remove the alternator. At the other end of the tensioner arm, I found a torsion spring with a wrench attachment (for tightening) and a locking screw (Allen key). Is that common? In any case, it's very difficult to reach one of the alternator screws because the pulley is in the way.

Now, a question for everyone: Are there any other tricks to reduce the breakaway torque?

When dieselmartin posts the new pictures online, you can see them.

Regards,
Holger.

Hi there,
If the screw is not stuck in the thread, then most often only the contact surface of the screw head is the "cause" of the loosening moment.
In such cases, it can help to tap the screw with a wrench attached (provided it's perpendicular!), using a hammer; this usually makes it easier to unscrew.

Regards,
Olli.

Okay, thanks, I will. It's best to combine several measures.

Smooth the flat surface of the Torx bit to ensure that the teeth have sharp edges and can grip firmly.
Apply the creeping oil to the side of the screw head so that it may seep into the extremely narrow gap.
3.) Hammer blow.

Regards,
Holger.

@SeatArosa

I read your thread, and the Torx screws on my MSW cover weren't easy to remove either, especially that special triangular screw. You don't get many tries. Once that piece of junk was out, it was already necessary to convert it to a standard size .

I would say it's quite important to verschandeln the connection points thoroughly, so you don't introduce further problems by allowing dirt to get in. And if possible, document everything with photos or videos; if anything is unclear during installation, make a note of it.

I've already tried the Liqui Moly diesel cleaner in my ESP undiluted, but it didn't seem to have any noticeable effect. However, it might still be worth trying.

Good luck!

Tuppie.

Hey Tuppie, I'm going to buy one of those cheap Dremels now; it comes with a small cutting disc too.

If I ever need to loosen the set screw, I will simply bend a large, deep slot into it.

Regards,
Holger.

Here are the new photos.

http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/SeatArosa/

I was away for a week, so I'm just getting back to this now.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Oh, thank you, DieselMartin! So, let's continue then:

Hey everyone,
Meanwhile, I have managed to remove the broken Torx screws (see arrows).
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/SeatArosa/freigelegte%20ESP%20und%20Schraubprobleme.jpg
to extract it and remove the SBV valve.
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/SeatArosa/frisch%20ausgebautes%20SBV-Ventil%20mit%20Sp%e4nen.jpg
As you can see, the screen inside the SBV valve is partially clogged with small aluminum shavings, but 70% of the screen remains open. I also found a small number of tiny aluminum shavings on the bottom of the SBV valve chamber in the ESP.
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/SeatArosa/Blick%20in%20den%20SBV-Ventil-Raum%20der%20ESP.jpg

The 'hydraulic' functional test of the valve was successful: The valve reliably allows spray alcohol to pass through when open and blocks the flow when closed, without any applied pressure.

Of course, I also removed the SBV feather lid at that opportunity.
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/SeatArosa/SBV-Feder-Deckel%20entfernt.jpg
The SBV spring was OK. The SBV piston can be adjusted in the 'early' direction with a lot of force (2 thumbs and a socket as a base), but I don't know the necessary SBV piston stroke. Hello experts? My piston can be pushed in about 5mm:
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/SeatArosa/SBV-Kolben%20reindr%fccken.jpg
The spring seems to be doing this on its own. I couldn't detect any obvious defects (with my zero experience with ESP systems). However, I can't make a judgment about whether the SBV piston is actually difficult to move, as I don't have a reference object (a working ESP unit for comparison). The spring definitely pushes it inward slightly.

The short block piston and cylinder were clean. However, I don't know what the running surfaces (cylinder liner and piston skirt) look like; I would need to remove the piston to see them.

If the piston is not actually sticking, there is still a possibility that the bypass from the SVB valve towards the suction side of the vane pump is blocked, which is equivalent to a nearly closed valve.

Heute möchte ich nach Möglichkeit den Motor startbereit bekommen. Ein gutes Stück Arbeit. Na Okay, let's go.

The stubborn Torx screws are replaced by stainless steel Allen screws .

'EDIT: Here are the photos I promised, which I have now included in the text.'

Good morning, everyone.
Here's a question that immediately arises. Why does the SBV piston move back against the force of the spring? My assumption is: As the piston is pushed in, the rotating roller ring comes into contact with the cams on the cam disc, which causes...

a) The distributor piston initiates an injection stroke.
b) a retraction stroke of the distributor piston is performed against the spring force of the disc valve.

Given that the opposing force is always equal (the spring force in a hydraulic system gradually decreases due to leakage), wouldn't option b be more likely?

Experts, what do you think?

Regards,
Holger.

The new four images are here.

Could it be that you're driving on biodiesel? The color reminds me of it.

Is the AKU also approved?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Thank you, dieselmartin. @everyone: I have just added the latest photos to the post above.

Yes, the AKU or Seat Arosa SDI is officially approved, but not the Bosch ESP (which is a known issue). I still use rapeseed methyl ester (RME) because of the plasticizer leaching theory. This theory suggests that seals that have been damaged by RME are more likely to 'break' when switching to mineral diesel than they would be with 100% RME operation.

Regards,
Holger.