Golf 3: 1.9 TDI Engine Starting Problems

Hello,

In my Golf 3 with a 1Z engine, I'm having a problem where it starts very poorly.
It only starts after a long cranking and with the accelerator pedal fully pressed. After starting, the engine also needs to run above 2500 RPM for a short time, otherwise it will stall again. Afterwards, it drives normally, except that it's very sluggish from 150 km/h and usually doesn't reach the registered top speed of 175 km/h. The car was manufactured in December 1994 and has approximately 220,000 kilometers on the odometer.

Air filter, glow plugs, 109 relay. The relays are new. Fuel tank vent is OK. The shut-off valve for the fuel pump was measured at 0.8 ohms, and voltage is also present. Voltage is present at the glow plugs, initially at 10.5V, then the voltage likely increases to approximately 11.8V due to the reduced current consumption of the spark plugs.
I printed out the target data for the 1Z engine from somewhere at the beginning of this page and yesterday, I logged it with a friend using VAG-Com via OBD. >Everything OK< [/color]caught my attention}} is:
Measurement block 0, field 7: Coolant temperature 97 (unit?). Set point: 80...35.
Block 1, Field 4, Coolant temperature: 67 degrees.
After disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor connector 140 (x), and at 40 degrees?

Okay, there's also no air in the system. The error memory is empty.
I'm completely exhausted and have already spoken to a few people, but without any concrete results.

Where did you read "000 07 degrees" in the MWB (Multifunction Watch Board)?

There are no units in block 000!


Measure the compression before you invest any more money.


m;

So, the 97 are not degrees, okay?
but the target value is 80...35.
and that doesn't fit with 97, right?

MWB 01, section 4: I wasn't warmer than 70 degrees, even with aggressive driving .

I would like to know if the temperature sensor has anything to do with the starting process.

I can only have the compression measured at the .
Does anyone have any idea how much that costs?

Anyone else have any ideas...?

If you actually take a look at the repair manual, it says:

Ad group 00.
Display field 7 = Coolant temperature.
35..80, as is.
Over 80 engines running cold.

What does block 01, field 4 display when the engine is extremely cold?

If your temperature sensor is faulty and constantly displays 70 degrees, it's clear that the engine won't start properly.
- it doesn't glow.
- The start of the injection is not correct.
- The initial amount is too small.

Measure, Report

Greetings.
m;

Measuring PS compression should cost around 50 EUR.

I don't know what temperature he's measuring. My friend has a VAG Com, but it's always a 130km drive to get there.
Bei abgezogenem Stecker, zeigt das VAG Com einen Wert von 140 bei Block 0 Feld 7, und bei Block 1 Feld 4 40 Grad. Also annähernd kalt, dann müsster er doch anspringen??? Othe

I also tried starting it without the plug before, because I had it disconnected to measure the voltage at the glow plugs.

Repair manual? I'm not familiar with that, where can I find it? Is it at the beginning of this page, where the specifications were?

Why didn't the engine get any warmer? The temperature gauge on the dashboard always shows a reading significantly below 90 degrees.


I'm desperate; I've really tried to rule out everything possible. I've already done a lot of research, searching online, and even consulted with a mechanic. I've also had the error codes read. They basically wanted to impound my car. So, it's a troubleshooting issue. When I asked for a detailed invoice, I got disbelieving looks. They said, 'It can't be put that way,' and started making excuses.
I don't trust it; there are too many scams.

Besides, I would also like to understand why.

The preheating fuse is also okay. I have removed any corrosion I could find on the cable terminals.

I don't think there's much left to do now...

Please confirm me.
- Compression
- Faulty fuel injection pump.

I think, and if it's cold, it glows.
The voltage is applied to the glow plugs, at least for a few seconds.

How can I pinpoint the exact cause of the problem using readily available resources?

130 km to the VAGCOM - I'm (KL) 50 km closer.

I would start by checking the temperature sensor. It's a dual sensor (meaning it uses the same technology twice in one housing - one for the main function and one for display).

If it looks okay, start spraying - it might be terribly misaligned.

Is the crankshaft bolt tight? (What that is: search)

"If it's confirmed and the start time is correct (so far, everything has been free)."

Measure (or have measured) the compression.

Don't make the mistake of investing hundreds of dollars in a car (like I did with the G2) and then finding out that it doesn't have compression anymore.

m;

Repair manuals are the original VW documents - you can find them at http://erwin.volkswagen.de.

It's 130 km round trip = Wiesbaden.

I live in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, which is at least 50 km away from everything.

'Checking the temperature sensor' means what? Does it mean replacing it with a new one?
Hmm, maybe I could measure the resistance to see if it's the same as another one.
I also have a Passat 3B AFN and a T4 1X. The Passat probably has the same [part]. Can I replace it without any problems? I mean, regarding the coolant, does it bleed automatically in these cars? It wasn't automatic with my Opel before; it had a bleed screw.
'If I can reach the engine bay on the Passat, because the engine is mounted longitudinally, I'll give it a try.'
Oder neu bei VAG? Costs?

I haven't checked the KWS results yet. I'll do that tomorrow.

But the fuel injection timing should be okay.
I checked blocks 0 (fields 1-10), 1 (fields 1-4), 2 (1-4), 3 (1-4), 4 (1-4), 8 (1-4), 10 (1-4), and 11 (1-4) using VAG COM, including the fuel injection timing (at idle and full load in 3rd gear), and all the data was fine except for the coolant temperature.

Okay, thank you very much for your patience.

A friend of mine has a sticker that says 'Dangerous Half-Knowledge.' I could really use one of those in situations like that...

STOP.

You cannot accurately determine the optimal time to start injecting if the temperature is not measured correctly.

Because the temperature is included in the injection start regulation.

So, "temp" is wrong -> "Spritzfalsch" is wrong.

Did you set the basic settings in block 000?

The AFN should have the same feeling, and the engines themselves should warm up and vent if you simply let them run for a while in neutral.

Engine temperature check with a cold engine -> the diesel intake air temperature and coolant temperature should be the same.
Otherwise, something is wrong.

m;

I can't check your intake air and coolant temperatures because I don't have a VAG-COM diagnostic tool. I'm not going to get one either; I'm completely confused right now.
Ich versteh die Zusammenhänge nicht. Damn.
I'm checking the KWS, and then it's off to the . It will get a debit authorization for my account, and hopefully, the Kiste will work.

Thank you for your effort.

Sure, I can do that.

But using VAGCOM or going to your friend will be cheaper than letting the dealership do it.

http://shop.dieselschrauber.de/product_info.php/cPath/21/products_id/38

m;