G4 ALH transmission oil change

Hello everyone!

I've been reading about the topic of "transmission fluid change" in the search function.
I have read a lot of positive things about "Castrol TAF X" in this and other forums.
Mine has now reached 120,000 km, and I'm considering a replacement.
Question: What viscosity should I use, or are there only specific viscosity options available for "Taf X"?
Do I need any other oils (e.g., for the differential)?


Best regards, Jan.

@kixx_ass:

The transmission and transfer case in your vehicle form a single unit, meaning they operate in the same oil bath. You need fully synthetic transmission oil with a viscosity grade of 75W-90. I have already performed a transmission oil change on both vehicles (A3 and G4). I purchased the oil from a dealer. It's not that expensive (I think it's about 6 EUR per liter, so about 12 EUR for the change).
Draining the oil is easy (there's a drain plug), but filling it is a real test of patience. To make it easier, I bought a transparent plastic tube about 15mm thick at the hardware store, which fits into the filling hole at the front of the gearbox. Then, I used a funnel to fill it from the top. Perhaps it's even easier if you use a large 100ml syringe and inject it 20 times into the opening.
The sauce is extremely thick and difficult to pour.

Good luck.

Regards,
Alex.

You're welcome!

6 euros per liter? Which oil did you use? I want to use Castrol "Taf X", but it probably doesn't cost 6 euros per liter, does it?

Is 2 liters the optimal amount to fill? Or did you just keep pouring until it was full? How can I check the oil level? Do you use any additives (e.g., with Teflon)?

More importantly: the result! Have you noticed any improvement in the shifting? The idea of replacing it came to mind because sometimes, when I quickly engage first gear, I hear the gears grinding and it sounds like "a greeting from the transmission." This doesn't happen often and occurs both with a warm and a cold engine, but only sporadically.
I don't think it's too early for a complete gearbox overhaul yet, which is why I'm trying the oil change first.

Best regards, Jan.

@kixx_ass:

The specified fill capacity is approximately 2.1 liters. However, it's important to add oil until it starts to overflow from the fill opening. Then, close it and let the engine/transmission run at idle for 1-2 minutes. After a 5-minute settling period, check the oil level again and, if necessary, add more oil, provided that no oil is leaking from the borehole.

I couldn't notice any real difference after the oil change. It served more as a way to ease one's conscience, since changing it after 150,000 km is not a mistake .

Your problem likely lies in the area of a clutch that isn't disengaging properly.

Regards,
Alex.

"I've also had the thought that the clutch might be wearing out, but it's not slipping (I tested it in 5th gear with 3 heavy guys on the back seat), and as mentioned above, the problem occurs very sporadically, which has so far prevented me from investing in a new clutch."

If the old one needs to be replaced, and (of course, the clutch ), I wanted to install a Sachs Performance sport clutch. Has anyone had experience with this clutch, or with these reinforced components in general? I was considering the stronger clutch because of an upcoming chip tuning.


Best regards, Jan.

Hi!
I don't want to stray too far from the main topic, but a theoretically possible cause for a clutch that isn't disengaging properly could also be air in the hydraulic system... and that would be the easiest thing to fix for now.

Best regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dirk"

It might be, but shouldn't that happen in all gears ?
I can only repeat myself: ONLY with a quick insertion of the first gear and ONLY sporadically!

p.s.: How do I bleed the hydraulics?


Best regards, Jan.

Hello,

You shouldn't try to put the car in first gear while it's rolling. It's no surprise that things 'creak' from time to time; even an oil change won't fix it.

Please describe in more detail the circumstances under which the noises occur.

Hi!

no, I am not trying to put the gear in while the vehicle is moving .
Situation: I am standing at a red light (note: I am STANDING!). It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, this happens regardless of the temperature. The light turns green, I press the clutch and quickly engage first gear --> "ratsch" (a grinding noise).
"The gear engages, but only with a grinding noise from the transmission; after that, there are no further issues with the other gears. This only happens when shifting from neutral to first gear, and only when shifting quickly!"
What could it be? The car is original, nothing has been modified on the engine, it has 120,000 km on the odometer, it has a complete service history, and I am the first owner!

Ideas or suggestions?


Best regards, Jan.

kixx_ass wrote:

I am standing at the traffic light (note: STANDING!), whether the engine is cold or warm doesn't matter, it happens regardless of the temperature. The traffic light turns green, I press the clutch and quickly engage first gear --> "ratsch". . . .Ideas or suggestions?

What does "fast" mean to you?
Are you possibly already engaging the clutch, even though you haven't fully depressed it yet?

While stopped, try shifting to other gears as quickly as possible.
If it's making a clicking sound, allow yourself a little more time when starting at a traffic light in the future, because the synchronization rings need to initially slow down the incoming signal that's following behind to zero.

Okay, hier ist die Übersetzung des Textes, wobei ich nur den ersten Satz übersetze:

"If it were only in the first..." The tires are worn, and it's likely that some of the rings are already partially worn out.

hello ulf!

The other gears can be shifted without any problems! Normally, I also take my time when shifting gears, but sometimes you just have to do it quickly...
worn synchronizing rings... hmm, that might be it.
Would it make sense to make a trade now, or should we wait until other problems arise in other areas? Hopefully, that won't happen anytime soon...
How complex is such a repair? And what is the cost of the materials that need to be replaced? If that's the case, then changing the transmission fluid is probably a necessity anyway.
How do you handle it with your Polo? It also puts a significant amount of torque on the drivetrain. Do you change the transmission oil every 30,000 kilometers? What does your clutch say about that? Do you have a performance clutch installed?

Best regards, Jan.

kixx_ass wrote:

Would it make sense to do a swap now, or wait until other problems arise in other gears?

I would do the latter... and not shift into 1st gear so quickly. Due to a delay of 0.5 or 1 second at the traffic light start, your following driver won't tear your head off .
(For occasional red light races, just shift into gear when the light is red...)

Quote:

How do you handle it with your Polo?

It also puts a significant amount of Nm on the drivetrain.

Quote:

Do you change the transmission oil every 30,000 kilometers?

I'm only putting down around 360 Nm of torque, rarely use full throttle, and therefore don't see a reason to change the transmission oil so often.

What does your clutch say about that? Do you have a performance clutch installed?
Not yet (15,000 km, of which approximately 3,000 km with modifications), but so far, the original parts are still holding up.
However, if it slips prematurely, something stronger might come in.

kixx_ass wrote:

... Situation: I am standing at a red light (note: I am STANDING!). It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, this happens regardless of the temperature. The light turns green, I press the clutch and quickly engage first gear --> "ratsch" (a grinding noise).

Depending on how quickly you "throw" the gear, this is perfectly normal behavior. Mine does too.
I simply help myself by first engaging the second gear, and then the first. Then nothing will break anymore.

It's not about traffic light starts anymore; I'm past that age .

I'll still go ahead and change the transmission oil; it can't hurt.

Thank you very much for your tips.

Best regards, Jan.

kixx_ass wrote:

... I'll still go ahead and change the transmission oil; it can't hurt. ...

If your synchron rings are already damaged, they will fail much more quickly after an oil change.

Unfortunately, that's my bitter experience.

Have fun with the oil change.