Turbocharger Damage Ford Focus 1.6 TD 90 HP

Hello, Turbo Fail-Safe.

Focus 1560ccm, 90 PS, MJ 2005, 110 000 km, MKB HHDA oder HHDB. White combination.
The ADAC (German Automobile Club) had the vehicle, which had a diagnosed turbocharger problem (the engine was supposedly still running), towed to a Ford dealer by a roadside assistance service.
He says that in the event of turbocharger damage, the engine should always be removed according to Ford's specifications. Is anyone familiar with this?
I can imagine that the AGR (Abgasrückführungssystem) will be checked internally within the engine control unit (ECU), and that there might be debris or residue that needs to be removed before a new turbocharger is installed, but replacing the entire engine seems excessive to me.
What is the background?
I can listen to the FZ on Tuesday.
If the vehicle has engine damage, it will likely be sold completely.

I had that engine in my Focus II (year 2005) for 4 years. When I sold it, the mileage was 130,000 km.
However, the 109 hp version came with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter).

The turbocharger in my Focus has been replaced three times.
At 40,000 km, 47,000 km, and 75,000 km.

Every time, following Ford's instructions, the turbochargers were removed, and the entire oil system was flushed.
It is important to replace the fine filter in the oil supply line; failing to replace this filter caused a second turbocharger failure in my engine.
The third turbo failure occurred because a mechanic had forgotten to install a heat shield between the turbocharger and the oil line.

The hose detached, and the loader no longer received enough oil.

The engine was never removed from the car.

In that case, I would say that the dealer is mistaken, assuming that Ford's instructions have not been changed.
It doesn't make sense, in my opinion.

Unfortunately, over the past 4 years, I've also realized that there are very few Ford dealerships that actually know what they're doing and understand their job.

I can only recommend one company out of the approximately 12 I had to visit.

Thank you, Voodoo, for sharing your experiences in the report.
The mention of the filter in the supply line is valuable, although I would always replace the oil supply line.
The heat shield seems to be very important as well.
"In the 'Auto Blöd' forum, someone once found a post suggesting that the line was getting too much heat. The oil was carbonizing, and the reduced flow was damaging the turbocharger."
Since you're not from around here, I'd be interested in hearing your recommendations for reputable dealers, if you're willing to share them via private message. Maybe I can get a feel for things beforehand.

Hello,

Removing the engine is definitely an overreaction. First, the workshop or you should assess the extent of the damage to the turbocharger.
Before the breakage, if the wave had been running crooked for a long time, there might be a large number of debris particles in the intake manifold, and importantly, in the intercooler, as well as potentially in the cylinder head, even in the combustion chambers.

What Ford is saying could very well make sense if the damage caused so much debris to enter the engine, so it's important to first understand how the turbocharger failed. It's also possible that it's simply stuck because it ran out of oil.

Here's the translation:

"As mentioned before, a new oil line is needed. Many also believe the oil return line should be replaced, which certainly wouldn't hurt. However, it's essential to make sure the return line is clear, otherwise, the next person who works on it could encounter problems."

And something else that's important not to forget is to fill the turbocharger with oil before installation, as the oil pressure line will be full of air during the initial rotations.

First, let me inform you about what the issue is and what the defect looks like.
If so many chips had flown, representing the worst possible accident, a major accident (GAU) , then absolutely everything should have been flushed away, and done meticulously!

Okay, so I mean: remove the oil pan, the intercooler, and any other parts in the way; potentially remove the cylinder head; clean everything thoroughly; and reassemble it all. This would also include replacing the head gasket, which should give it a longer lifespan.


Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"lg" is an abbreviation for "liebe Grüße," which means "best regards" or "love." It is often used in emails and letters to express affection or friendship.

Here is an example of how "lg" might be used in a sentence:

"I hope you are doing well. lg, [Your Name]"

In this example, "lg" is used to express affection and friendship. It is a way of saying "I care about you" or "I am thinking of you."

I forgot to mention the intercooler; that's definitely important.
However, according to the instructions, Ford also handles this.

If the turbocharger really caused that much debris to enter the system, affecting the cylinder head and combustion chambers, then the engine is beyond repair.

Then it would need to be re-honed, and new piston rings would be required, which would likely constitute a total loss.

Hello, thank you for all the information, especially the private message with the workshop recommendation.
The car is here on site. I was able to get it on a lift, and there were no abnormal noises under light load.
Unfortunately, I didn't manage to do any more today by this evening.
A local Ford workshop, which I don't trust, provided a quote for labor and parts:
"Turbo, oil lines, oil pan, vacuum pump, 2x oil and filters, and 2x flushes, all for just under €2000. This included a 10% discount on the turbo and lines."
Now I am waiting for the other recommended dealer to get back to me.
I'm actually optimistic about tackling the job myself when I have the time. The oil filter is probably located in bolt 01590756, which includes a gasket. Schlütter and others offer a set that includes two filters and a blank screw, as they are aware of the "second turbocharger problem" caused by a clogged filter.
I was actually thinking of running the engine for about an hour at low speed with new oil and an oil flush before disassembling it, to loosen up any sludge and drain it out. What's a good product for loosening sludge?
Oh, so the Ford workshop I don't trust here doesn't have "LLK" written on it, which further diminishes my opinion of them, right?

Depending on how fine the mesh of the LLK (likely referring to a medical device or filter) is, it's possible that you won't be able to remove the debris or particles that get trapped in it.
Therefore, it might make sense to replace the coolant.

My lubrication system was so heavily contaminated with oil that wood chips got stuck in it, and I couldn't remove them by flushing.

Here's another tip: Take a look at the crankshaft pulley on the timing belt drive.
It was also defective on mine.
The rubber element, which was vulcanized and served as a vibration damper, was completely worn out.

It's probably a widespread issue with the engines.

Sure, the LLK (likely referring to a specific product or ingredient) is always included if I'm going to do it anyway.
I'm familiar with the issue of the detached pulley from my experience with the T4, so I'll keep an eye on that. Thanks.
Engine flush: what cleaning products have proven effective?

Okay, I've decided to do it myself.
TL is running in LL with wave pattern, but nothing seems to be scraping against the housing as far as I can tell. When I rev it up cold, I hear something, and the oil level on the dipstick is slightly above the full mark. The engine smokes slightly blue when I give it gas when it's cold, but it's barely visible, and not sooty black.
Okay, I'm going to disassemble the small Allen screw on the oil feed line with the strainer on the turbocharger and check if it's clogged.
edit: I can't find a filter in the hollow screw, maybe it's on the motor side?
So far, I haven't found any wood chips in the trachea.

"Thank you, slow-mo. I've read everything you posted, as well as the almost identical content from Schlütter Turbo."
I haven't found any "Rußpampe" anywhere. The engine is currently running with an oil cleaner at low speed. Tomorrow, I'll get a Ford diagnostic tool to see what error codes are stored and to check if the turbocharger is building up sufficient boost pressure.
What Ford diagnostic tools are available for up to €400 that are actually useful?

"Model year 2005? You should be able to read that information via OBD using any generic OBD scanner! You can definitely access the error memory, and you should also be able to measure the boost pressure. Of course, the accuracy will be limited by the sensors used in the vehicle..."

Update:
The engine doesn't appear to have any metal shavings, as far as I could tell by looking at the "inlet" hoses after the TL (presumably referring to a diagnostic tool or process).
The Gutmann test initially showed no errors; perhaps the ADAC technician read them and bravely deleted them.
After the test drive, the error message "boost pressure not correct" appeared, which was somewhat disappointing. The measured absolute boost pressure was 2400 mbar. The limp-home mode was repeatedly triggered at full throttle, starting at 2500-1 minutes, but only in the highest gear.
Since the throttle lever already shows noticeable play, it's not so bad that it's probably not the throttle lever itself, but rather the VTG (variable turbine geometry) or the control valve. Both have been ordered or are already here.
Next week, I'm going to do it.
It would be helpful to read the boost pressure under load and RPM and compare it to the target value.
Does anyone know the Max Lade pressure? Is 2.4 bar absolute pressure okay?
According to NET, there is supposed to be a serial boost function that temporarily increases the LD (likely referring to a specific parameter or value).
Laut Ford Mstr. habe es auch MstG Fehler gegeben bei solchen Notläufen. Update?
Now, I'm going to look for the location of the solenoid valve behind the engine block .
Then a Ford data logger / diagnostic tool.

Hello, it's working again.
Replacement parts: TL oil inlet and outlet pipe, oil pan breather, 2 strainer hollow screws for the oil pipe cooler, TL timing valve.
The oil pan had to be removed, and new oil was added twice, along with an engine flush additive.
Oil pressure measurement: A small tube was welded onto the old hollow screw, and a pressure gauge (0-6 bar) was attached.
The following values should be measured: 2 bar pressure in the Tl supply line, and an oil return flow rate of 0.3 liters per minute (which is equivalent to 1 liter in 3 minutes).
The likely cause was the stiff Westgate valve, which made the can retract somewhat slowly. I also replaced the check valve for 130.- as a precaution, so I can hopefully have some peace of mind for a while.