Diesel Exhaust Smoke & Temperature Above 100°C

Hello everyone,
I'm having a problem with our Seat Toledo AFN.
Okay, so I've had the car for about a week now, and there are still a few other repairs that need to be done, but they're not related to my current problem. The car is also not currently registered, so unfortunately, I can't take it for a test drive.
I replaced the timing belt on the Toledo, and the timing is correct, but when I tried to adjust the injection timing, the TDI Timing tool showed a diesel temperature of over 100°C during a cold start.
"Cold start" means that the engine was not running before the timing belt replacement, but was started for the first time shortly after the replacement, while the engine was still cold.
The injection start timing is currently set to 35. If the diesel temperature were correct, I would leave it at that value.
The engine starts immediately, runs smoothly and quietly, responds beautifully to the throttle, and everything else seems to be in good order for now.

After the timing belt replacement, I noticed that it's emitting a significant amount of blue smoke from the exhaust, starting around 2000 RPM. To be honest, I don't know what burnt oil smells like, and we haven't encountered this issue before.
I know there are a lot of posts about this topic in the search results.
But precisely these various posts make me a little unsure whether it's due to burnt oil or perhaps a misaligned ESP (Electronic Stability Program).
I can't adjust the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) at the moment because I think the temperature sensor in the ESP is defective.
The last time I checked the oil level, it was a little low, so I topped it up. Since then, the oil level hasn't decreased while the engine has been running.
Before the timing belt replacement, it didn't smoke as much, which is why I hope it's simply due to the misadjusted EGR valve and not something like the shaft seals, piston rings, or other issues.

The question is, is it a huge hassle to replace the temperature sensor in the EGR valve, aside from the three-point screw?

Based on your experience, could the blue smoke be caused by a faulty EGR valve, or should I investigate something else?

Regards,
Tobias.

Quote:

Diesel temperature exceeding 100°C during cold start.

Caution, please take a Screenshot. The default setting for this motor is found in measurement block 0, and there are no units here!

If in doubt, check in measurement block 7 to confirm that the reading is actually 100°C. If it is, the possible causes are:
- Faulty temperature sensor, connector/harness damaged.
- Amateurish tuning, some clueless person has loaded a data set into the engine control unit that doesn't belong there.
- Control unit defective.

You can usually distinguish between diesel fumes and oil fumes by smell. Find someone with experience in this area, or try it yourself: use an old teaspoon, add a drop of diesel or engine oil, and heat it with a soldering iron.

Best regards, Rainer.

I just took two screenshots, one of MWB7 and one of the TDI timing in the basic settings mode.

I can rule out a chip; the car is from the first owner, and the previous owner was an elderly gentleman who always had the car serviced at a Seat authorized workshop.
Hopefully, it's not the MSTG.

Edit: That tip about using a teaspoon is actually a cool one; I guess you could come up with it yourself *g.
Okay, I'll try that.

You can only roughly check the injection timing on a cold engine. Warm the engine up to at least 85°C and then check the values in MWB 0 in the basic settings mode. Make sure to select the correct engine in the timing checker as well.
The measured values of 35 / 100 look suspiciously like MWB 0.
hg
Herbert.

Edit: Your post with the Screenshot was faster. Please make sure to properly warm up the car first.

I am aware that the fuel injection timing can only be roughly checked on a cold engine.
What surprises me the most is this blue smoke; he definitely didn't have it before the timing belt was changed. Therefore, I suspect, or rather hope, that it's due to a misadjusted EGR valve. Furthermore, I find the diesel temperature to be much too high in the basic settings mode, especially during a cold start.

In MWB 7, I'm not exactly sure which temperature setting applies to the diesel engine, as I'm missing the corresponding label file.
I'd like to warm it up, but right now it's not street legal, and there's still some work to be done on the exhaust system.

Okay, regarding the engine selection, it's the correct engine. I couldn't find any other AFN engines in the list .

Reading:

Quote:

The default setting for this motor is found in measurement block 0; there are no units specified here!

hg
Herbert.

Quote:

In the MWB 7, I don't know the exact temperature setting for the diesel engine, as I'm missing the label file for it.

007.0, Temperatures (engine cooled down)
007,1,Fuel,Temperature,Setpoint: Approximately ambient temperature.
007,3,Intake manifold temperature,Target value: approximately ambient temperature.
007,4,Coolant temperature, setpoint: approximately ambient temperature.

Drive the engine as Herbert suggests, and let it warm up first. The temperatures indicated in MWB 7 seem reasonable.

Did you set the valve timing correctly ?

"Hi Autoservice, I have to agree with you; I didn't mark anything, but not out of false pride or overconfidence, but simply because I had the crankshaft and camshaft set to Top Dead Center (TDC), and I also inserted the ESP pin from the timing belt side to hold the ESP in place."
Before I removed the timing belt, I noticed that the crankshaft was about one tooth "early" compared to the camshaft.

Edit: I meant that one tooth was placed too far back.

I then loosened the NW (nose wheel) bolt by approximately one rotation and detached the wheel using a pin. I inserted a ruler into the NW and secured it, then placed the timing belt onto the crankshaft pulley first, then over the ESP (electric steering pump), and finally onto the NW.

So, the KW, NW, and ESP are either as originally intended, or perhaps not.
Now I'm starting to understand where the blue smoke is coming from when the Northwest valve opens the exhaust channels too early.
Then something else must be wrong.

Thank you in any case for the breakdown of MWB7 .

Quote:

Before I removed the timing belt, I noticed that the crankshaft was approximately one tooth "early" compared to the camshaft.

If a diesel engine has a timing issue with the camshaft, it will no longer run properly, or possibly not at all.
Since it was running correctly "before," you must have seen something incorrectly. This means the valve timing is not correct.
Possibly confused the OT (Optical Timing) mark on the flywheel? Was a feeler gauge used to bridge the gap to the tool?

Hello. I'm a bit confused about the procedure for setting the ignition timing while reading the instructions. When the crankshaft is at Top Dead Center (TDC), can the timing light alignment tool be properly positioned?
What's the problem with the label files?
hg
Herbert.

Another silly question: When you "disconnected" the motor, did you perhaps turn it the wrong way?

Download VCDS from the shop and reinstall it, because the program contains label files.

Hello Herbert, my approach was to first check the timing marks on the old timing belt. I noticed that I could slide the ruler in, but I couldn't find any mark on the crankshaft (KW). So, I rotated the crankshaft until the ruler fit, loosened the water pump (NW) pulley, removed the timing belt, and then rotated the crankshaft until I found the mark.
In the meantime, I also inserted the pin into the ESP to ensure it stays securely in place.
Replaced the timing belt, tensioned it, and checked that all the timing marks were aligned.

"Regarding the label files, I'm missing the label file for the AFN in the Seat Toledo. This means I can see information in VCDS, but I don't know what that information refers to. Similarly, the specifications are also missing."
But that's not really so tragic .

Car service, I'm starting to think I actually have two OT markings on my KW (coilover suspension), but I only found one and used that one for adjustment.
The OT marking was a small "V" on the bezel, which I adjusted so that it aligned perfectly with the arrow on the bell.
I couldn't find a zero.
I'm starting to really believe that the valve timing might not be 100% correct.
To my shame, I have to admit that I didn't use any feeler gauges for the ruler, but I wonder if that could really have such a drastic effect.
Yes, I did accidentally turn the motor in the wrong direction for a very short time while disconnecting it.

Okay, this is my first diesel car; so far, I've always had gasoline-powered cars, but you always learn something new .
I'll take another look at the valve timing tomorrow.

Quote:

Autoservice, I'm starting to think I actually have two OT markings on the KW, but I only found one and used that one to adjust it. The OT marking was a small "V" on the bezel, which I adjusted so that it aligned perfectly with the arrow on the bell. I couldn't find any 0.

According to my research, there is supposed to be a third version of the Toledo, indicated by a dash.

First, clean the area around the markings. If necessary, manually calibrate or de-calibrate the OT (Optical Transducer).

Thank you very much, I will definitely take another look at the OT markings tomorrow.
Just a small note: I seem to recall that the AFN engine was also used in the Toledo 1M, specifically from the year 2000 onwards. This is about a 1998 Toledo 1L, sorry, I forgot to mention that.

Perhaps I'll still find an OT (Over-The-Road) marking that's hidden by dirt.
I will definitely report .

Thank you and best regards.

"No label file" means is it a hacked tuning? Which VAG part number does VCDS show for your engine control unit?

I have the following VAG part number: 028 906 021 EF.
Component: 1.9L R4 EDC 00SG 1441 with code 00002.