Audi A4 2.0 TDI: Common Problems & Solutions

Hello, I have a new oil pump with a hexagonal shaft and want to replace it, but I can't get the two screws out on the transmission side that are accessible through the two holes because the Allen key holes in the screws are rounded and worn. Does anyone have a suggestion or idea how to remove them without disassembling the transmission and flywheel?

Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything related to this topic in the forums.

I am grateful for any helpful answer.

Can you modify the ZMS (presumably a component) to reveal recesses that would make the screws more accessible?

I've already removed the ZMS (presumably a component), but I can't find that specific recess you mentioned, or maybe I just missed it. I was even thinking about welding a ring wrench or a 10mm socket onto something so I could grip the hex screw.

I'm going to look for that indentation again.
I thank you; I thought that this feature might not be available for me.

I found the recess, but it's not helpful to me. I took some pictures of it. The clutch is from LUK.

Unfortunately, I have to remove the transmission, take out the clutch, and detach the dual-mass flywheel before I can loosen those two screws.

Or am I wrong? I'm very happy to be corrected .

There's no more space cut out here. In the previous pictures, the ZMS (presumably referring to a component) is solid, and here you can see a minimal cutout, but it's not continuous. I don't understand what this is supposed to be.

I compared some clutch sets from Sachs and they all have continuous openings, so next time I'll be getting a Sachs set.

Try tapping the screw head with a punch to loosen it and potentially make the Allen key fit better. Alternatively, you could try loosening it with the help of another person: one person holds the Allen key in place with a wrench while applying pressure, and the other taps the wrench with a hammer. Or, you could try hammering in a Torx bit, although I'm not sure if there's enough space for that; usually, you need to use a ball-end Allen key for this type of screw.

Get a long Torx or multi-spline socket that you can hammer into the hexagonal recess. The impact from hammering might also loosen the screw.

Okay, I'll try the method with the Torx screwdriver, but do you think the screw will come out and not hit the flywheel instead? Also, regarding the recess you mentioned, my car doesn't have that.

"Of course, I'll try to force a Torx screwdriver in there first before taking everything apart, so there's probably about 3-4mm of space between the screws."

Hi everyone, I've really tried everything, followed all the good advice, and yet things turned out differently than expected.

"Those two damn screws are incredibly tight, and nothing I've tried – tapping, etc. – has worked. I welded a small wrench, then tried a ring wrench, but neither worked. I even forced a Torx bit into them, but the screws are so tight that the Torx bit just strips the hole when I try to turn it."

I removed the transmission, detached the clutch, and took off the dual-mass flywheel. I unscrewed the bolts using a wrench and some force.

And all of this for an oil pump .

Thank you for your support and interest.
Best regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Ro" translates to "raw" in English.

You're actually saving the engine by doing this, so it's not a pointless effort.

dieselschrauber wrote:

High-quality 5mm Allen keys with a ball head are helpful for removing the fastening screws on the clutch side. It's best to have different lengths; for example, one of my keys was too short, while the other was too long.

Since the screws are already damaged, I would suggest forcing a slightly oversized Torx bit into the screw, as previously mentioned.

Best regards, Rainer.

03G115281E reinforced drive shaft for VW/Audi 2.0 TDI crankshaft balancer module oil pump!!!!!!!!

Attention to those who may not know: this reinforced wave does not fit into...

FEBI Oil Pump 34722 for VW Passat, Tiguan, Audi A3, A4, A5, A6, Q5, Skoda Superb I, Seat Exeo.

The wave is 1/10 mm too thick. So it's 6.1mm, and you can only force it into the pump housing with a lot of effort. This creates an imbalance in the balancing mechanism, which could later lead to wear on the housing.

It fits perfectly into the original pump.

I cut a high-quality 6mm dowel rod to size; it fits perfectly and is also specially hardened.

I also took some pictures of this.

The original wave was already rounded, which is clearly visible, so it was definitely time for a new one.

The female part remains unchanged; all the corners and edges are still present.

"However, I have a question about the balance wave module. There's an oil pipe mounted on the underside, but it simply ends there and doesn't connect to the crankcase. Could it be that a connecting pipe is missing? When I removed it, I didn't notice any pipe being attached. Does anyone know if this connection is necessary or not? I would really appreciate a quick answer; I want to reassemble the oil pan, but I need to figure out what's going on first."

I've read through the internet, but I can't find anything, I'm looking for a guide on how to adjust the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) module to the motor's top dead center (TDC) position, I messed up and didn't make any markings.

Can someone please help me?

You'll need a special tool, part number T10255.

Yes, I found it, but does this apply to common rail and PD engines? Are the balance shaft modules the same for both types of engines?

I just checked with BPW. However, in my opinion, it should also work with CR models.

The oft-repeated question: Why not just look up how to do it in the technical documentation (RLF), and which tool should be used? It costs a few euros from Erwin.
hg
Herbert.