Starting problem 1Z

Hi,
I haven't been able to find anything suitable, so I'm just going to ask for help directly.
My 1Z initially stopped accelerating after being in gear, but after downshifting (using the brake/clutch), everything worked as if nothing had happened. Errors accumulated, eventually causing the engine to only run in idle. When attempting to accelerate, it produced a cloud of white smoke but no increase in RPM.
After parking, nothing more happened, i.e. The engine is being turned over by the starter motor, with normal operating sounds.
While the problem was occurring, it ran smoothly at idle, with no unusual noises.
Once, a pilot briefly coughed and something went into the intake area.
I replaced the diesel filter and blew out the return lines. Diesel is flowing freely to the ESP (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system. When the retaining nuts on the injectors are loosened, diesel leaks out.
The diagnostic trouble codes (part number 028 906 021 G) read with VAGCom showed two irrelevant errors: (1) Immobilizer occasionally triggered (old error: turning the key, everything is OK); (2) Brake pedal signal occasionally implausible (connected via a relay and inverted, likely due to a modification on a VW Bus).
The preheating system is okay and functioning properly.
I'll disconnect the LLM again tomorrow afternoon and explicitly check the airflow. It should be okay, though.
Relay 109 is also doing it (
I'm drawing a blank; I don't know what else to search for.
I'm grateful for any ideas (except for suggestions to completely dismantle it). (A van is parked on the street.)
Is there a comprehensive overview or guide available that lists the control unit modules, addresses, and their corresponding contents or target values? Essentially, a guide to reading/programming the control unit (download?).
Trying to troubleshoot issues with a VAG vehicle can be tricky. It would probably be more effective to carefully select the relevant measurement blocks beforehand and access them for reading. (But I'm also new to this area – today was the first time I connected an interface to the engine control unit and worked with it using a laptop.)
Thank you very much for your help!
Marcus.

How about the crankshaft bolt?

Best regards, WarLord.

My suggestion would be to check the variable valve timing, possibly due to a loose camshaft bolt. However, if the engine won't start, then VAG-COM and any diagnostic data won't help. Remove the timing cover, set the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC). If you can easily insert the timing pin into the ESP camshaft pulley, then the valve timing, at least on the pump side, is likely correct. For extra safety, I would remove the valve cover and use a camshaft alignment tool. If everything aligns correctly (which I doubt), then you have a different problem, perhaps the immobilizer, which also logged an error, or a severely misadjusted ESP injection timing. But I think, as you describe it, that your engine's timing is definitely off!

Regarding the measurement value blocks, MichaelII has created a wonderful compilation. You can find all the target values for pretty much all TDI engines there! Check out the tips and tricks section for information on the target data of various TDI engines.

Okay, I finally got around to working on the engine. It took a lot of effort (somehow, I had to use a Golf 1z flywheel, a T3 WBX clutch, and a T3 JX gearbox housing...). I removed the ESD (exhaust system), installed a different one, and used a ruler to check the camshaft timing.
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That should be enough to make it work, right?
However, the ESD looked quite dirty, so I've carefully cleaned it here:
[img][/img]
However, there have also been quite a few unsuccessful launch attempts.
I probably should get the injectors cleaned (at 110,000 km).
Besides that, the only other thing that comes to mind is a faulty ESP (Electronic Stability Program).
Thank you for your support!
Hi, Marcus.

P.S.: By the way, the 12.8 mm screw with the raised section in the middle has already been installed - the old one broke about 20,000 km ago, and VW repaired it back then.http://m.w.-.bei.t-online.de/pic/mot07.jpg{MARKER}http://m.w.-.bei.t-online.de/pic/mot05.jpg{MARKER}http://m.w.-.bei.t-online.de/pic/mot02.jpg{MARKER}

Especially if it has been repaired before, because the lower timing belt sprocket is fixed to the crankshaft with a press fit; the groove is only a safety feature. The gear has a bit of play in it, enough to allow something to come out through the window.

Sorry, but I can't see much in the pictures. If I'm interpreting this picture of the fuel injection pump correctly, then the locating pin probably shouldn't be that easy to insert, right?
What about the start of fuel injection for the fuel pump? Have you ever measured its static electricity?

M3_bremse is correct.
It looks like it's at least half a tooth, or possibly a whole tooth. 'There's no room for error' --> KW-Rad.

My tip.
If it was repaired by VW, possibly without machining the crankshaft journal, then this might be sufficient for a worn crankshaft journal. Therefore, it would be a warranty case for a new crankshaft. Hopefully, it hasn't been too long since the purchase for warranty claims.

Regards,
Hermann.

Okay.
I had the injectors checked at Boch, and they are okay. Just connected the nozzles directly to the ESP, put trash bags over them, and started it (it's so nice how the engine runs without the ESDs ), and the compression seems to be okay for the supposedly 110,000 km.
Result: Fine diesel soot particles in every bag. So: The pump pumps, the nozzles spray.
I probably need to take another close look at the engine control unit. However, if the KW (likely referring to a specific component) is actually damaged, the situation looks bad. VW won't be bothered by that after about 2 years and the corresponding mileage...
Hi, Marcus.

Hi,

Please check measurement block 0 and adjust the injection timing in the basic setting mode.

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay, first of all, I have to say that I have mixed feelings about the knowledge verification process. On the one hand, I understand that there are real idiots in other forums who just post nonsense, but on the other hand, I have to admit that I also had some problems with the questions, since I'm just an electronics technician, not a car mechanic.

Furthermore, despite my limited technical knowledge, I have something to add regarding this issue. I experienced the same problem, and it turned out to be a loose screw on the crankshaft pulley. This caused the timing pulley to become dislodged, allowing it to rotate forward and backward depending on the driving conditions or acceleration. At idle speed, everything seemed to be fine again. So, please check the pulley as soon as possible, otherwise, you might end up with bent valves.

Well,
I let a friend drag me to a place to work on things, and then I checked the timing again. The camshaft/ESP were aligned, but the crankshaft wasn't quite right. So: I removed the pulley and then gently turned the crankshaft bolt once. If it tightened with 90Nm+1/4 turns, I'll eat a broom. I easily loosened it with the standard wrench and one hand, without the van even flinching .
Holding the gear in my hand, I was then able to admire the details: The flat section is incorporated into approximately 1/4 of the circumference, extending towards the base of the tooth. That should be enough to adjust the valve timing.
The big question now is, is it enough to just install a new gear (and secure the $%%(&%& screw with Loctite, which has been in there for about 28,000 km), or does the entire crankshaft need to be removed?
I'll take a picture of the KW Stumpf tomorrow. It actually looks good, at least in the light of the Maglite...
I can't imagine that the KWStumpf will survive being hit by a loose gear twice.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Perhaps someone can evaluate this.
@Ebomat: How did it turn out for you? Did you get a new bike and is everything working now? Or has the ECU (Engine Control Unit) been modified/replaced?
Hi Marcus,

Normally, the KW-stumpf needs to be planned and then it should be okay again. Someone used a flexible grinder on this company's equipment at some point. Search for 'KW-stumpf' or something similar, and you'll find a lot of information!

Hi,

I also remember a post where the person who was having trouble mentioned that they were able to rent the tool for planning the strut shaft from ATU.
I'm looking forward to seeing the photo...

Best regards, Andy.

Hi!
I went with my uncle, who's a mechanic, in his car. He had a special milling machine for the job. So, we reworked the crankshaft (KW) and then installed a new pulley. That was it.
but it was the same for me with the timing and so on. I was able to unscrew the screw in the crankshaft without a ratchet. I was lucky, and you are lucky too!
My uncle did it using the torque wrench. I wasn't there, unfortunately, but as someone aspiring to be a precision mechanic, I wouldn't use an angle grinder for that, especially considering that the screw had already come loose.
If you try to force the KW (coilover) with a flex drive, loosening the screw or knocking out the washer is almost inevitable. It's better to do it properly. I can ask my uncle what kind of tool it was and whether he owned it himself or borrowed it.
Best regards, Lars.

Hello!
I actually had a similar problem with a friend, but in his case, it wasn't as severe. In his situation, a triangular file and a small hair file were enough to flatten the surface again, but it wasn't really deeply recessed. However, a certain level of manual dexterity and knowledge of how to properly plane a surface are prerequisites for this method.

Regards,

Dominique.

Okay, so I managed to get some parts (gears, oil seals for the camshaft/crankshaft, etc.) and talked to some people who are knowledgeable about VWs. I have no idea what made today so special, but I've never experienced service like that before.
I inquired about how they handle such issues, and I was then directed to the "expert" for KW problems. He showed me the specialized tool and immediately offered to let me borrow it! Absolutely! / No questions from my end!
The tool is essentially just a guide shaft that is screwed into the thread for the shock absorber bolt. A milling head is then attached to it, and it is rotated until the surface is flat.
Consequently, the new wheel would need to "grip" due to the clamping pressure.
I assumed that the flattening would occur over a certain period of time and that it would be the point of failure in the event of damage.
If that's not the case, then a "repair" shouldn't be a problem.
-and there are still no photos, because my girlfriend has taken the camera for a university project -
Hi Marcus,