Engine hard to start when warm

Hello.

Golf 3 TDI 110 hp AFN (manual transmission):

When the engine is cold, there are no starting problems.
When it's warm, it's very difficult to start; it takes about 3 to 4 seconds for the starter to engage.

I know that the starter motor needs to be replaced. Because the engine is only running at less than 200 RPM, the fuel injection pump isn't working properly. When the engine is cold, the RPM is 400.

Does anyone know if it's possible to reprogram the engine control unit (ECU) for an automatic transmission? Is it because the ECU doesn't initially check the engine's RPM before the fuel injection pump injects fuel?

Does this have any further consequences for normal operation? For example, does it affect driving, fuel consumption, or does the engine not run at all?

Warning, this is a manual switch.

Please, who has what? I personally think that something like this can be deleted without a replacement of the starter. That's why I came up with this!

Hi,

The search function is your friend.

/viewtopic.php?t=3094 (ganz unten ... Starter problems.

Most often, starters become difficult to turn because the lubricant inside them hardens over time. Disassembling the starter, cleaning it, and re-lubricating it may solve the problem.

Are you a German ?

Quote:

Please, who has what? I personally think that something like this can be deleted without a replacement of the starter. That's why I came up with this!

Try coding the magnetic switch on the starter motor!

Steffarn wrote:

Are you German

?

I think that colleague is Dutch.

Are you a German ?

I think the colleague is a Dutchman.

Yes, why?

Today, I re-coded the engine control unit for an automatic transmission.

Measurement block 7, encoding 000001, actual value 000002.

It starts right up again when the engine is warm! No more problems.


No replacement of the air filter is required!


It performs better because the turbocharger maintains boost for a longer duration during acceleration (above 3800 RPM).

LEON TDI 4 MOTION wrote:

Today, I re-coded the engine control unit for an automatic transmission. Measurement block 7, encoding 000001, actual value 000002. It starts right up again with a warm engine! No more problems. No replacement of the air filter is required! Drive better because the boost pressure is maintained for longer during acceleration ( > 3800 RPM)

That is interesting .
But I really can't imagine what that has to do with starting the engine.

The injection amounts can also be set manually in Channel 1, between 2.5 and 9 mg/h.
set. Then adjust the following: -10 Adjustment, Channel 1, and -11 Login, set to 12233.

This makes it easier to start the engine.

That is interesting
But I really can't imagine what that has to do with starting the engine.


'Because the engine is running at less than 200 RPM, the fuel injection pump isn't working. When the engine is cold, this value is 400 RPM. With the automatic transmission, the control unit doesn't monitor the RPM, but it always injects fuel, which is why it starts immediately, even when warm.'

'Does anyone know if it's possible to reprogram the engine control unit (ECU) for an automatic transmission? I'm wondering if it doesn't initially check the engine's RPM before the fuel injection pump injects fuel.'

I've already driven several kilometers with it, it drives well! The boost pressure remains constant for longer at higher RPMs!

Hello, the starter motor has nothing to do with coding; that's complete nonsense. The starter motor has absolutely nothing to do with the fuel injection control unit. The wiring of the starter motor is as follows: A thick cable runs directly from the battery to the starter motor, connecting to the battery's positive terminal (terminal 30). The ground cable connects either to the chassis or directly to the engine (terminal 31). Additionally, a cable runs from the battery to the ignition switch, connecting to terminal 30 on the ignition start switch. When you turn the key to the start position, the ignition switch activates a positive voltage from terminal 50 of the ignition switch to the starter motor's terminal 50. This terminal is located on the solenoid.

So, there's really nothing that can replace a control unit there.

Possibly, if you have an immobilizer system, there might be a relay located between the ignition switch and the starter motor, connected to the 50-pin connector. However, this relay cannot be coded either.

If I were in your situation, I would check the battery voltage when starting the car. If it drops below 9 volts, then you should either replace the battery or have it tested to determine its capacity (cold cranking amps).

If the problem isn't related to that, then remove the starter motor and check all the components for smooth operation. Pay particular attention to the brushes and bearings inside the starter motor.

Furthermore, if you code your control unit to operate in automatic mode, you will receive error messages indicating 'No communication with the automatic transmission control unit.'

It is quite possible that it will switch to an emergency mode because it is not communicating with the automatic control unit.

Furthermore, if you code your control unit to automatic mode, it will give you error messages in the control unit, such as 'No communication with the automatic transmission control unit.'

It is quite possible that it could switch to an emergency mode because it is not communicating with the automatic control unit.

Incorrect!

'I drove 300 km today, checked the error memory; no errors! Drive safely. I haven't changed anything related to the starter or the wiring, but now it starts right up!'

Therefore, my Ergo is probably effective because it has certainly been working. Thank you for your explanation, anyway. }