1Z with permanent adjustment of injection timing

Help! After my car sat for two months in the winter (producing tons of white smoke and a cacophony of noises until it finally started), and later ran great again thanks to replacing the crankshaft sprocket, I'm now at my wit's end. It all started on the highway, exclusively in 5th gear, where the turbo pressure occasionally drops to zero, then immediately builds back up, but only sporadically. This happened two months ago. For the past month, I've been starting the car in the morning, having to crank it for a while, with white smoke before it starts. I then drive to the workshop in the evening, they readjust the engine, and it works fine again for about three or four days, until the morning and evening ritual starts all over again. However: The crankshaft sprocket is extremely sturdy (even with the full weight hanging on it, nothing moves), and I also tightened the camshaft wheel with 100 Nm for good measure. How can the injection timing possibly be misadjusted? Last time, I also replaced the tensioner and belt, and the diesel filter, just to be safe. Does anyone have a solution for this, because I just want a normal car that starts every morning... sniff...

What does block 000 in the basic settings say about the start of the injection process?
Okay, the usual TDI timing.

Does the Hadelhubgeber perhaps have a screw loose?

(If you don't understand any terms here, use the search function; they should be explained there, or ask again if necessary .)

m;

The reading of the sensor data indicates a significant delay in the injection start. When reading the error memory, it shows a difference in the injection start control, which is understandable. As I mentioned, I can initially align the timing belt, and the engine runs well for about a week, but then the problem starts again because some wheel is constantly misaligning, and I don't know which one it is or why. I'm considering slightly grinding down the bolts on the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulley next time, just to be sure they aren't hitting the back and therefore not securing properly. 'Furthermore, I'm considering placing a feeler gauge under the 'groove' of the camshaft sprocket, as I think a gauge will definitely fit there. Hmm, what problem would the needle lift sensor affect? I also received the tip that the diesel sensor below the pump shouldn't have more than 1.5 ohms of resistance; otherwise, it might need to be replaced. However, I absolutely don't have the time or desire to remove the pump right now... Thanks for your help. Oh yes, the only term I didn't understand was ESP, but I think it probably has nothing to do with the chassis control.' Matze.

ESP is the injection pump

What kind of "diesel sensor" are you talking about?

It is easy to determine whether the ZR belt is twisted:

KW to OT.
then the ruler must fit into the MW , and the thorn must fit into the ESP http://people.freenet.de/golf-schrauber/Nockenlineal1.jpg.

I mean these tools that you need for a timing belt replacement:


If they don't fit, something is wrong.

m;

It still sounds like the KW wheel is loose to me.

maxximat wrote:

and I also made sure to tighten the camshaft sprocket with 100 Nm

for safety.

Hi,

Don't overdo it, otherwise you might strip the nozzle-water screw or the nozzle itself might fail. Always tighten to 45 or 55 Nm and use a HOLDING TOOL for the rear wheel.

Please check, as previously described, whether the locating pin on the KW side fits into the ESP. If that's not the case, then immediately investigate what's wrong, otherwise you'll end up with a mess of valves and Swiss pistons.

You don't need to grind anything on the camshaft. Instead, check the contact surface on the crankshaft. Make sure to enable the "Förderbeginn" function with VAG-COM (but check the timing first!) -> see also: search function "Weißrauch" (white smoke).

Hello everyone,

I would also consider a stuck or intermittently malfunctioning fuel injector with symptoms like those.
Regards,
Markus.

Ah, ESP is an injection pump! Of course... I'm a mechanic myself, and I have all the tools available, including mandrels, rulers, holding fixtures, and torque wrenches, which I always use to the best of my ability. But despite proper adjustment and tightening the components according to the standard (okay, I sometimes adjust it a little more when it comes to the crankshaft pulley...), and after rotating the engine twice in the direction of rotation, then re-checking all the gauges and verifying the crankshaft timing mark, and ensuring the correct timing belt tension, I'm still stuck every two weeks, or now even every week, and I bet that if I go to the workshop on Friday, the timing marks will be out of sync again. My thought was that the KW wheel bearing might already be seated against the rear of the KW strut, and therefore might not be properly pressed. I cleaned the contact surfaces when I replaced it in the spring. I also want to try placing a thin feeler gauge in the KW groove before sliding the wheel on, just in case there's any play there, so I can rule out the KW wheel bearing as the cause. A friend from university reminded me today to check the tightness of all the fasteners on the ESP and the ESP wheel, maybe I'll find something loose there too?! MKMEIER, I don't quite understand the issue with the spray nozzle yet. The tip about the diesel sensor comes directly from the VW workshop, where they've also encountered similar cases where only this component on the pump was defective, as mentioned, and it's identifiable by the excessively high resistance according to the diagnostic tool. Statement from the employee there (Should be less than 1.5 Ohms).
Good night, everyone.

First, you need to figure out which wheel is spinning.

dieselmartin has already described it.

Rotate the crankshaft to the top dead center (TDC) position and check if the dowel pin fits into the electronic spark plug (ESP) and if the gauge fits into the camshaft. It should be possible to deduce from that which wheel is loose.

If a mandrel and gauge don't fit: Crankshaft pulley.
If only the thorn doesn't fit: ESP bicycle.
If only the ruler doesn't fit: NW-wheel.

You're right, I hadn't seen it that way before! But what should I do, for example, with the rear wheel that was replaced last winter? If it becomes loose again, even though last week a person could hang on to the swing arm with their full weight. Should I shorten the bolt a little, or maybe use a thin washer underneath? And if it's the rear wheel?

hello again,

The injection timing adjuster is the component in the fuel injection pump that is responsible for adjusting the injection timing. You can find detailed information on how the control and, ultimately, the regulation works in a specific technical article (please read it).
In my case (AFN engine), the fuel injector timing mechanism is currently not working as smoothly as it should (likely due to biodiesel). It's not fully moving towards the "late" position. This means the engine is idling and running at partial load with a bit more vibration. This can be precisely observed with a Vagcom diagnostic tool. This "sticking" isn't always the same, which means that if I adjust the ESP (Engine Speed Sensor) now, and later the fuel injector timing mechanism moves more towards the "late" position, the injection timing at startup will be far too late. This would explain the starting problems. Two months of inactivity during the winter doesn't exactly help the smooth operation of a fuel injector timing mechanism. I hope I haven't completely confused everyone who reads this. But still, good luck.

Best regards,
Markus.