Start problem TDI MKB:1Z

Hello,

I just registered and now have my first question.
I bought a Golf 3 1Z TDI last week. 160,000 km, first owner, well-maintained, very good condition.

Unfortunately, it takes about 4-5 seconds before it starts. I've searched extensively, but I haven't really found what I needed.

If he is cold, he starts better than if he is warm.
Immediately after turning it off, it's worse than if it stands for 1-2 hours...

Therefore, I assume that the quenching technique itself is fine.

Verified / Swapped:

Timing belt replaced, timing belt tension correct, injection system functioning normally (VAG-COM)
Replaced 109
Needle changer replaced,
Fuel filter replaced
Incandescent bulbs are new.
Nozzle checked, OK (Bosch)
No bubbles in the performance
No fault codes detected
Starter new / Battery OK.

The car has average performance (I previously had a 225 hp 1.8T engine with 265 hp, so I don't have a direct comparison). It currently reaches around 180-190 mph, and it pulls well up to approximately 3,800 rpm. I think it's getting close to its 90 hp. Loading pressure is acceptable, and the LMM value is also fine.

Compression will be measured on Friday, and I don't know how to test the diesel pump. Unfortunately, I don't have any tools, etc., but only my good VAG-Com as a help...
I basically need to rely on a workshop, and that will become expensive again...

Do you perhaps know what it could be? Two VW workshops are completely at a loss!!!
I want to buy a car, but I definitely want to keep it. Just because of the consumption!!

Thank you in advance,
Mike

AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Why did you even do all of this already???

If you've worked on this project, you've probably also encountered the crankshaft central screw.

If it's loose, it's the perfect time, and the phenomena you described will occur.

PS: How can the Bosch service assess the fees, as everyone I asked couldn't (at least not at the second level)?

m;

Here, I am not so:
http://home.arcor.de/sgrafen/salatoel/kw_schraube/kw_schraube.html

I was not familiar with the forum before.
I also forgot. The screws are intact, and the new ones are also already in

I don't even know how the Bosch service did it!
He simply said that they would be expanded and tested...

But:
I just noticed something. I measured a temperature value of 74°C using VAG-Com.
On my van, however, it's 90°! It's possible that the temperature sensor for the motor is outputting incorrect values, which causes the electronics to calculate an incorrect start time.
But then he would have to inject more, or earlier, and start better, or?!

Also, nochmal der Hinweis auf die Suche.

It is perfectly normal that the KI value and the real value are different. Plateau function of the dampened display.

Ok, thanks.

I will still take a look at the KW screw today and remove the disc. It is possible that VW (specifically, in my previous G60) replaced the screw, but did not tighten it sufficiently !!!! It really happened.
Then the nose slowly 'cleared up,' and the timing was off.

My friend told me to come over, he has a stage.

Hopefully, he will be back soon. I also noticed that the {PART} seems to be breaking more easily when I drive like this...

Hey everyone,

My engine apparently has too little compression.

I just went to my tuner, and he noticed right away that the engine was revving way too fast, even faster than a gasoline engine. So, he should no longer have any compression.

He said that there were likely multiple head gasket options for the TDI engine, and that the repair shop may have installed the wrong one. Because it's very new and clean.

My car has three holes in the front edge (on the metal). The more holes there are, the thicker they should be, and the less compression. Or the other way around (I don't remember).

Can someone please check on a 1Z driver who has a lot of holes in his car?
Would be really nice! Or how can I now find out what thickness my [object] needs to be?

Could someone please take a look at a 1Z driver and tell me how many holes it has?
Would be really nice! Or how can I now find out what thickness my

The strength of the compression depends on the piston overhang.

You can only measure these with the cylinder head disassembled.



Here are the dimensions:


Engine codes: 1Z, AHU, AEY, AFN, AVG, ALE

Labeling:

Grooves/Holes Piston Overhang


1 0.91 mm ... 1.00 mm


2 1.01 mm ... 1.10 mm


3 1.11 mm ... 1.20 mm

But first, I would measure the compression, before you disassemble your engine.

WOW, that was fast!!

Thank you.

I will then measure the compression. Hopefully, it's 'just' the head gasket.
I hope that the head isn't damaged or the piston rings are finished.

So, the most common type of series is the one with two holes!
The difference, however, is likely marginal, with a maximum of 2 bar, I would estimate.

I also installed the ones with 3 holes, and it starts up perfectly.

"Really, measure the compression instead of just relying on my feeling!"
The wear limit is 19 bar.
Normally, however, none are below 25 bar.

Have fun searching...