Injector Threads for VW/Audi AFN/1Z Engines

What is the diameter and thread pitch of the threads at the top of the nozzle stems on VP engines? Specifically, where the hose is normally connected.

I couldn't find any information using the search function.

I would like to build a stand for my drum set.

Regards,
Thomas.

Hello.
The nozzle should be 16x1.5, and the pump should be 14x1.5, but I'm not 100% sure.
Best regards,
Dirk

Do not knock out the nozzles!

I've seen a few of these get stuck. The best thing to do is to soak everything in WD-40, and you'll see – those parts will pop right out!

Best regards, myfisch.

Quote:

The best thing to do is to soak everything in WD 40

.
Nooooo, please don't...

Normally, the nozzles come out easily without any problems, you just need a wide 15mm wrench. And: it's best to turn these things in the cylinder head in a way that the nozzle holders remain in place (right-hand thread), otherwise the rest will get stuck in the cylinder head, and there's a risk of damaging the nozzle holders. Unfortunately, some people have already managed to do that.
If it's extremely stuck (which is very rare), you can still try soaking it with WD-40.
It's best to remove it when the engine is warm.

Reason not to use WD40: If the interior is dry, blowing once into the seat in the control unit is enough to clean it (and it will definitely be sealed afterwards). If WD40 is used, all the dirt sticks to the seat, making it difficult to clean.
Total time for installing/removing the nozzle holders: between 2 hours (for beginners) and 30 minutes.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Best regards, Rainer.

Opinions differ.

I swear by the WD-40 method – especially when dealing with nozzles that are often stuck very tightly, particularly when they've been used frequently. Before removing the nozzle, use compressed air to clean away any debris, and then everything should be fine. After removing the nozzle assembly, thoroughly clean everything again and make sure it's completely free of oil.

It's obvious that the engine should be warm when removing it and cold when installing it.

By the way, I've often experienced issues with the dimensional accuracy of the copper plates – they simply weren't sealing properly. It's best to measure them beforehand!

I think the torque for tightening the clamping jaws was only 25 Nm!

I check for leaks using a little soapy water from the spray bottle!

By the way, if the nozzles can be easily moved with a 15mm open-end wrench, you can save yourself the WD-40!

myfisch

Quote:

By the way, I've often experienced that the dimensional accuracy of the copper plates was insufficient - so they simply didn't seal properly.

It's best to measure beforehand!
But not for the included copper rings .

Sorry, Rainer.

This has happened before with them as well (with a ring!).

(But you don't make those yourself, do you?)

I'm already quite experienced now, and I always check beforehand!

I just wanted to mention this to show that a leak test is unavoidable!

myfisch

Hi,

Quote:

I just wanted to mention that a leak test is unavoidable!

That's a given. However, this isn't a hobby for me, and none of the ones in the attachment (a small part of the 'overall experience') have had any leaks in the engine...

Because I had to get upset and fix a nonsensical sentence again today: Please do not use pliers to remove the nozzle holders !

Best regards, Rainer.

Thank you for the many responses.

@Dirk:
Ich meine, daß die M16x1,5 am Düsenhalter nicht stimmen können. Die Schlüsselweite ist 17 und die beiden angefrästen Flächen am Düsenhalter haben 15mm. Eher M14something.
'I'll try unscrewing a fitting this weekend and using a thread gauge to check the thread size. I'll post the results here.'

I think I'll start by turning it on first, before I add the whipping attachment.
It's still a while off, but I wanted to start making the tools in advance.

Bosch also also uses an impact wrench for disassembly. At Mercedes-Benz, they even have a hydraulic puller for that purpose.

Regards,
Thomas.

Hi,

However, this is not just a hobby for me, and none of the ones in the attachment (a small part of the 'overall experience') have developed any leaks in the engine...


Greetings, Rainer

I know that!

Even though working on TDIs isn't the main focus of my work, I still occasionally get some (and I haven't just sold 200 of them over the years)!

To avoid resorting to violence if necessary, I'll just use WD-40!

P.S.: We will continue discussing this during our next visit to Emskirchen!

myfisch

M14x1.25

Best regards, Robert.

Thank you, Robert.

Regards,
Thomas.

Remove: M14x1.25
Set: M14x1.5

And I have proof.

Regards,
Thomas.

Oh dear, I feel terrible... this is what happens when you're not careful and accidentally point the measuring tips of the calipers somewhere they shouldn't be.

Hi,

If I'm not mistaken, this is the same size as the fittings used in propane gas systems in campers. You can find the matching threaded nuts, steel pipes, and cutting rings at any gas appliance store or camping supply store.

Greetings,
dieter

I repurposed an old fuel injector line. It's a must-have for the V6 TDI because the injectors aren't rotatable, and the O-rings also create resistance.