Clean Vintage: Restoring & Repairing Old Items

Hello everyone,

Short question:

Can I only verschandeln my VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) in the LL (Low-Pressure) system by simply connecting it to the vacuum pressure hose?

Or do I really have to disassemble the frame?

Thank you and greetings from Lake Constance.

Hello Tobias,

If I remember correctly, you had a 110 hp TDI engine. As soon as the engine starts, the variable geometry turbocharger (VTG) is already activated to its maximum boost pressure via vacuum.
I think it's too tedious to repeatedly connect and disconnect the vacuum hose 100 times.
To my knowledge, Ulf once connected the solenoid valve to a turn signal relay.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

I think it's too tedious to repeatedly connect and disconnect the vacuum hose 100 times.

*ggg*

Hi everyone,

A "shotgun" approach is also conceivable: Attach a large syringe (around 50 ml) to the can and draw up and release the contents 100 times... ugh.

So, don't curse my bones because of blisters on my fingers, tendonitis, or anything else .

I also wanted to try this out for myself - does it work now with the 'Blinker' (turn signal) system, Ulf? Is it safe to try?
Perhaps you could spray the VTG adjustment mechanism with 'Caramba' as a preventative measure.

best regards,
Arne.

Arne wrote:

I also wanted to try this out for myself - does it work now with the turn signal, Ulf? Can I try it without any worries? Perhaps you could spray the VTG adjustment mechanism with "Caramba" as a preventative measure.

Hi Arne,

I must admit, I haven't personally tried the blinking trick myself - I actually built a 1 Hz generator to control the solenoid valve .

But with the turn signal issue, nothing breaks (others have already tried it).

I find Caramba to be hardly helpful as long as the "external mechanism" is showing magnificent rust spots... usually, it's the internal mechanics that are stuck, and you can't reach them with Caramba .

Hello,

Arne wrote:

Maybe you could spray the VTG adjustment mechanism with "Caramba"

.
I wouldn't oil any of the hot parts. The oil will eventually turn into carbon deposits, which will cause even more problems than before.
When something is stuck inside: Bad luck -> disassemble.
If the rusty shaft of the adjustment mechanism is simply stuck in the housing, copper assembly paste (heat-resistant; if it gets too hot, you'll at least have copper dust as a solid lubricant) and plenty of movement should help (the rust dust will be replaced by copper dust).

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay! Thanks for the help!

arne

Thanks for your answers so far!

Yes, I have an ASV engine with 97 kW and an *** chip. It has 100,000 kilometers on it.

At 60,000 km, the turbocharger was replaced due to a stuck variable geometry turbine (VTG).

I also have the large U-shaped container attached.

I was actually thinking about installing a valve on the U-shaped tube during cleaning and alternately opening and closing it.

I'm not familiar with the method involving the turn signal..., but it sounds good.

Can the entire amount of coal dust really just disappear through the exhaust stream and the movement of the variable geometry turbine (VTG)?

Greetings from Lake Constance, Best regards, Tobi.

Tobias wrote:

Only...is it supposed that the entire amount of coal dust will disappear solely through the exhaust stream and the movement of the VTG (Variable Geometry Turbine)?

Hi.

Everything doesn't disappear completely. But if something comes loose due to the movement, it will be reliably blown away – that's the "trick".
. . . hoping that it won't upset the cat . . .

Please refer to the article about VTG in the left-hand menu again, especially this link:

http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html


'And this is what it looks like after someone's really dirty hands have been on it...'



CU Gremlin.