OEM Connecting Rod Bearings for VAG.

Hello everyone!

I'm considering replacing the connecting rod bearing shells in my AGR engine with the reinforced bearing shells from the AHF/ASV engines.
The reason for this request is to increase the engine's durability and the fact that I will be replacing the oil pan during the next scheduled service anyway. If everything is already exposed like that, then we could just as well...

Now there's a reputable (???) supplier on egedöns offering sputter targets from the GLYCO brand at a relatively low price. Does anyone have any experience with the quality of these sputter targets? Is GLYCO perhaps an original equipment manufacturer (OEM)?

"By the way, has anyone here ever replaced the connecting rod bearings on their TDI? I think you should have enough clearance with the oil pan removed. If you rotate the crankshaft so that the pistons are roughly in the middle position, you should be able to push the piston up slightly on the connecting rod to bring the connecting rod into a vertical position for the purpose of replacing the bearing shell."
The only question is the accessibility to cylinder 1, as the oil pump might be in the way.

Thank you for your tips, opinions, and suggestions.

Regards,
Alex.

Replacing the bearing shells on a Golf 3 with the MKB 1z engine wasn't a problem. I did remove the oil pump, but it's only held in place by two screws (at least on the 1z).

Are any seals or new screws required?

donalexo wrote:

Now there's a reputable (???) supplier on egedöns that offers sputter targets from the GLYCO brand at a relatively low price. Does anyone have any experience with the quality of these sputter targets? Is GLYCO perhaps an original equipment manufacturer (OEM)?

Hi Alex,

With http://www.motorensuche.com, you are well served.

The company "Federal-Mogul" distributes plain bearings under the name GLYCODUR. http://www.glyco.de/de/home/index.htm
They are also original equipment suppliers for various car manufacturers.
I installed these bearings in my Jetta after a connecting rod bearing failure. So far, I have nothing negative to report about them. The cost was 28 euros.
Replacing the oil pump is not a problem on either the gasoline or TDI engine. Depending on the model, the engine can even remain in place (which is quite safe with the transverse engine). You can remove the oil pump, but you don't have to. An oil pump that is completely empty can cause terrible damage on the initial start. These pumps are not self-priming when empty. So, before reassembling, fill it from the top and then screw it back on. This ensures proper oil supply from the start.
More recent engines (all without an intermediate shaft) have the oil pump located on the front side. This is driven by a chain connected to the crankshaft. In these engines, removal is not necessary.

@Bertil:

"This quote is from the GLYCODUR website:"

Quote:

1982 With the introduction of the Glyco Sputterlagers® series, Glyco Metal Works becomes the only worldwide provider of a complete multi-layer composite material program

.

That means there's a fairly high probability that VAG will also use GLYCO-Lager .

At egedöns, the price for a set of sputter bearings is 89 EUR, while at VAG, it's approximately 130 EUR .

Glaubst Du wirklich, dass man bei den 038er Motoren an die Pleuellager des 1. Zylinders kommt, ohne die Ölpumpe abzunehmen? o.k., wenn seitlich genug Platz ist, dass man die KW so verdreht, dass die Kurbelwange zwischen Block und Ölpumpe steht. Hmmm...

Regards,
Alex.

'A good parts supplier can usually provide you with high-quality connecting rod bearings without any problems.'
to obtain at a reasonable price. I would not purchase such items from the aforementioned company.
Online auction (Egedöns sounds good and fits well - most of what's there).
What is offered is either cheap junk or simply too expensive to buy.
You could also inquire about a cylindrical grinder.

There are several well-known manufacturers, all of whom are recognized by the car manufacturers as...
OEM parts are installed.

I replaced the spark plugs in my daughter's Golf II 1.6 gasoline engine last summer.
Kolbenschmidt connecting rod bearings are installed, and available at my dealer.
Paid approximately 35 euros. However, I initially checked the connecting rod bearings for safety.
Measure the valve stems using the micrometer screw to ensure accuracy.
that no excessive amount is required. If you are certain that the engine is still...
'That shouldn't be the case, but you never know - just to be sure.'
Sure. It would be embarrassing to use standard bearings on a KW with a 1-inch undersize.

On the back side (underside) of the bearing shells, which faces the connecting rod, you can see...
You will often also find the original VAG part number and possibly the letters 'STD' for 'standard size'.
find.

Hello fellow mechanics!

Has anyone by chance photographed the underside of a TDI engine block, with the oil pan removed?
It would be interesting to see if it's possible to replace the connecting rod bearings without having to remove the oil pump.

Regards,
Alex.

Why?

If it (the oil pump!) is in the way, it will be removed. For the gasoline engines of...
'In most cases, the VAG units I've opened so far have been accessible without disassembly.'
I haven't checked the TDI yet.

Hello Jürgen!

It's quite simple for one reason: expanding the oil pump likely (who knows for sure?!) requires removing the front (belt-side) sealing flange. This, in turn, would mean loosening the crankshaft timing gear bolt to remove the sealing flange. At that point, it would also be a good idea to replace the crankshaft seal, etc., etc.
This would likely have a significant ripple effect, and it's important to have the corresponding spare parts readily available beforehand. I wouldn't hesitate to disassemble the pump, but my main concern is to have a very accurate estimate of the workload, as I can't afford to be without the car during the week. And things like that can happen quickly when you've taken everything apart and then realize you're missing seal X, screws Y and Z, and a special tool to reassemble it.
I've also been considering whether it might be possible to access the central mounting bolt of the oil pump gear (which is driven by a chain) to remove the pump without disassembling the sealing flange.

I would be very happy to receive any expert advice!

Regards,
Alex.

donalexo wrote:

It's quite simple for one reason: expanding the oil pump likely (who knows for sure?!) requires disassembling the front (belt-side) sealing flange. This, in turn, would mean that you have to loosen the crankshaft timing gear screw to remove the sealing flange. Then, it would also be a good idea to replace the crankshaft seal at the same time, etc., etc.

Unfortunately, it's exactly as you described.

... it can be done without disassembling the pump.

Hello Bertil!

Quote:

... it can be done without disassembling the pump.

These are indeed welcome news .

Then the timing belt can stay in place. If I combine everything I want to do with the next oil change, the whole process should take about 1 hour extra (if you work carefully and don't rush).

Regards,
Alex.

Hello Donalexo,

Okay, on the AFN, the oil pump is relatively easy to remove, and you just need to ask.
TDI without further details!

Hello Jürgen,

Further up in the thread, I limited the discussion to 038 engines, specifically AGR, ALH, AHF, and ASV.

The AFN definitely doesn't belong to that group (028 engine). Regarding the pictures, I intentionally didn't make any restrictions, as I'm also interested in a picture of the open 028 engine block, even though a picture of the 038 engine block would be more helpful .

Regards,
Alex.

Replacing the oil pump pan is not a problem on either the gasoline or the TDI engine. Depending on the model, the engine can even remain in place (which is quite safe with the transverse engine). You can remove the oil pump, but you don't have to. An oil pump that is completely empty can cause terrible damage on the initial start. These pumps are not self-priming when empty. So, before reassembling, fill it from the top and then screw it back on. This ensures an adequate oil supply immediately.


However, if the oil pumps are not excessively worn, they should self-prime.

Otherwise, every replacement engine would suffer damage the first time it's started.

It is important to observe the usual oil change intervals.
- start without gas.
- Let the engine idle for 2-3 minutes to ensure that the turbocharger also reaches operating temperature.
Has oil.

golfschrauber1981 wrote:

However, if the oil pumps are not excessively worn, they should self-prime.

It's not a silly meadow after all!
At least with VW and Ford, completely new (i.e., unused) oil pumps are unable to pump the oil from the oil pan into the oil circuit.
Based on my own experience, I can confirm this: The oil pump was replaced, and the engine started without fuel, but it was stuck for 30-40 seconds.
My engine mechanic then burst out laughing.
1. Error: empty oil pump.
Fill the oil pump with oil from the top... only then can the pump draw in the oil. These gear pumps are only sealed when filled with liquid, which is necessary for them to pump (and draw in oil!). Larger air bubbles (e.g., after an oil change) are then not a problem.
2. Error: Too low speed.
An oil pump doesn't provide enough pressure at idle to quickly expel air from the empty engine. The bearings suffer from this very quickly.

One solution would be to initially prime the oil pump without running the engine. In VW 827 engines with an intermediate shaft and an oil pump located beneath the distributor, this is possible using a "dummy distributor," although it is extremely complicated.

There's a very good document online that explains how to break in a new item.
www.cagero.com/pdf/engine_breakin.pdf
On page 3, under "Fire it up," you'll find the break-in procedure. It sounds harsh, but my engine builder has used this exact procedure to build hundreds of (racing) engines. None of them failed prematurely. Among them were turbocharged engines (e.g., Cosworth engines from the RS500).

Hello,
It worked for me, though.
Even the original VAG documentation doesn't say anything about filling it, but you never stop learning .

golfschrauber1981 wrote:

Hello, It worked for me, though. Even the original VAG documentation doesn't say anything about filling it, but you never stop learning

.

Lucky you... read this about it... a fellow sufferer:
[Dead link]