Turbocharger Oil Line: Preventive Replacement Advice

I need some advice.

I'm going to replace the turbocharger on my AHF-Golf soon because of the VTG adjustment.
It was making a loud clicking noise, and the vacuum sensor was slightly defective (due to a weak return spring).

Since the loader has reached 360,000 km, I didn't just want to adjust the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry).
"Clean it and replace the vacuum sensor. That's why I got a different AHF charger."
It's in the process of being assembled (thanks to webster!), and I'm installing a brand new vacuum pump that I have on hand, along with new seals and other components.

Now, here comes the issue of oil supply:

I inspected the short return pipe and, based on its condition, the turbocharger specialists, such as Turbo Instandsetzer and Garrett, recommend, or even require, that this pipe be replaced due to potential deposits, stress fractures, etc.

Since the current pump doesn't appear to have any internal damage – it "sounds" good and isn't leaking oil – I'm wondering if I could simply flush the line with brake cleaner using a pressure washer, then run a soft-jaw cable puller through it, replace the cutting and sealing rings, and that would be it. There aren't any flexible sections or anything like that in the line.

And before I spend 45.00€ out of fear on such a piece of metal piping, I'm asking YOU!

Ideas?

Hey, the hose doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. Just like in your (cost-saving) example about the used charger, I would simply flush the hose. Hold one end, fill the hose with water, and then open it – let's see how quickly the water flows out. You can also use compressed air to help. Now, here's the important part: The hose must be securely fastened with the clamps, otherwise it could tear at the connection to the turbocharger. The second critical point is the connection itself, which often doesn't seal properly anymore.

I would immediately disassemble the used loader to check if everything is in order. I would also carefully widen the space between the guide vanes and the exhaust housing with sandpaper. There might be a plate installed there that, due to rust or warping during operation, can press against the guide vanes, causing them to temporarily jam or appear to be difficult to move.

There are cutting rings on the pipe, and I think the whole thing might seal up if we replace those cutting rings. Or are you referring to these conical double nipple couplings?

Deus Violentia wrote:

Cutting rings are located on the pipe, and I think the whole thing might seal properly if we replace the cutting rings. Or are you referring to these conical double nipple fittings?

You can't replace the sealing rings; they are crimped onto the pipe. If you buy a new pipe, you can get all the components separately.
The double nipple fitting is equipped with a sealing ring for the charger, which you should tighten securely beforehand.

That's not true, who would create such a mess? Crushed cutting rings - ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.............

Clogged drain lines are not a general problem but are specific to certain engines, such as the older 1.8T models. In those engines, the drain line can get very hot. When combined with cheap oil, this can lead to damage. In my AKN engine, the drain pipe was perfectly clean.

@christians: Thank you for the hint .

to wrap things up here:

I installed the old hose when I changed the loader on Sunday, and I had previously flushed it with 10W-40 fresh oil using a syringe; brake cleaner seemed too risky due to the many bends. The flow rate seemed very satisfactory to me. As a backup, I had bought a new hose on Saturday from a supplier here, specifically from the VW oHG, in case something went wrong on Sunday... today, I was able to return it .

Thank you again to christians and RedR32 for the insightful hints and tips!

Hello,

That's not true, who would create such a mess? Crushed cutting rings - ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.............

That was Mr. Schneidring himself.

Besides the crimping method commonly used for brake lines, another established method is...
To assemble high-pressure pipelines in a way that ensures a permanent, leak-proof connection.

Have you also checked the corner valves in the bathroom and kitchen, and are you glad that the broth...
remains in the pipe.

Regards,
Hardy disc.

No, I use double-edged cutting rings that I slide onto the pipe and can replace individually!

Deus Violentia wrote:

No, I have double-edged rings that I slide onto the pipe, and which I can replace individually.

I don't believe that's possible. If they're properly tightened, you can only remove them by sawing through the tightly squeezed pipe. You can't just pull them off; once they're stuck, they're stuck. That's my experience with those brass cutting rings on angle valves or in boilers.

Sure, but unlike the loader oil pipe, the rings don't form an inseparable unit.

Hello,

The name 'Schneidring' (literally 'cutting ring') originates from the fact that when the ring is first installed, it creates a radial cut on the pipe, which then serves as a sealing surface between the ring and the pipe, and holds the pipe in place.

For plastic pipes, a metal support sleeve must be inserted into the pipe to reinforce this effect.

The advantage of this connection is that the pipeline can be assembled without external tools, such as a flaring tool, because the cutting ring, pipe, connecting fitting, and possibly a support sleeve, which serve as assembly components, also function as the tools for assembling this permanently sealed and detachable connection!

A prime example is the fuel injection lines in diesel engines, where this component is not typically considered as a separate part, and no one would ever think of replacing the sealing rings if there were any leaks.

Regards,
Hardy disc.