VAG-COM: Diagnose defekter Einspritzdüsen ohne Gerät.

My question might sound silly, but is there a way to identify a faulty or leaking nozzle without having to immediately involve a professional?

Even though he's probably even more awkward than I am!

I have an AFN model that has been chipped and has 204,000 kilometers on the odometer. Should I replace the injectors, or not?

When driven at full throttle, the car produces a lot of black smoke (due to the chip), the fuel consumption is 6.5 liters per 100 km, and the oil consumption is 0.5 liters every 10,000 km.

'I experienced starting problems during the winter, even with new glow plugs! The engine would start immediately, but for about 3 seconds, it would only run on what felt like 3 cylinders, and it would produce blue smoke!'

Was that an early sign of a nozzle that would start dripping overnight?

Oh yeah, the problem only occurred when the engine hadn't been started for 2-3 days.

Best regards and thank you.

Manuel.

Hi,

Here in the forum, there are those who advocate for replacing the nozzles at this mileage, and those who don't take it so seriously (including me) .

Your problem seems more like a standard issue related to diesel supply, glow plugs, ESP settings, etc. First, browse through the search function or technical articles to rule out things like air in the system or a faulty glow plug fuse, for example.

You can only identify a leaking nozzle if the nozzles are removed... The prerequisite is that the engine was properly warm beforehand and has cooled down during the removal process -> otherwise, it's condensation .

In my clever book, it says:

'Here's how you can identify a faulty nozzle: '

- With the engine running, loosen and retighten the retaining nuts of the fuel injectors (at the connection of the fuel line) one after another.
- With intact nozzles, the engine speed drops after the nut is loosened -> the engine runs unevenly.
- If the engine speed remains constant while loosening a nut, the faulty injector is likely located in that area.

'Now I help myself' Volume 183.
-> I've never tested it, so I don't know if it will work.

Hi Dr. Snydor,

Well, these books are unfortunately still stuck in the year 1760 . I can't imagine that the nozzle is so messed up that it's knocking. A knocking nozzle was so brutal even in the old TD engines that a normal person wouldn't drive with it. Manuel only has problems shortly after a cold start. If a nozzle is really bad, it's not just failing during the first 10 engine revolutions .

DocSnydor wrote:

- With the engine running, loosen and retighten the retaining nuts of the fuel injectors (at the connection of the fuel line) one after another. - With intact nozzles, the engine speed drops after the nut is loosened -> the engine runs erratically. - If the engine speed remains constant while loosening a nut, then the defective nozzle is located there "

".

Hello.

In a TDI engine, the EDC system already tries to maintain the idle speed, even if only two injectors are working -> but in that case, the vibration control system will malfunction.
So, in reality, without VAGCOM or a similar diagnostic tool (like 1551), it's probably difficult to do much.

And that tip from the book, a TDI pilot can probably just shove it somewhere else...

I don't think it's possible without a VAG-COM device.

This book might be useful for things related to the chassis or bodywork, but it's completely wrong when it comes to the engine. And no matter which area you look at, it only scratches the surface! Nothing more!
It's best to subscribe to Erwin, because you're always up-to-date there! It's not cheap, but it's from the professionals, for the professionals. The book authors also only publish there, in my opinion! The books are current up to the first correction, and then they are never touched again! }

I think book authors also only write there.

That's true! Some passages were even taken verbatim.

I'm not claiming that 'my' instructions will actually work; I just typed them out from the book. Okay, it probably won't do much. But it doesn't cost anything, and it doesn't take much effort...
Unfortunately, I've also had bad experiences with these books. For example, the instructions for changing the thermostat don't mention the power steering pump at all, and the instructions for replacing the rear brake drums would never result in a functional brake system if followed precisely.
For small items, the books are actually quite good.

hi doc

I didn't mean to say anything negative about your contribution! Everything might have its own justification. However, unfortunately, this book seems to lump together gasoline engines, turbo-diesel engines, and turbo-diesel injection engines, mixes them all together, and then creates an 'all-around' version that's suitable for a bucket! I also bought this book for 40 Deutschmarks. And, as you mentioned, maybe with a lot of imagination, it might eventually become something worthwhile.

Hi,

That's the same for both books ("now do it yourself" and "this is how it's done"). They both cost 40 DM, and they only contain nonsense. Especially the torque specifications for components like the cylinder head, camshaft, tensioner, etc. should be correct, but most of them are wrong in these books .

hi christian,

Certainly, Etzhold's book also contains a lot of outdated information. However, the exploded diagrams are quite good and, above all, more informative than Korps photos and similar things. I agree with you about the errors. What shouldn't be there is there. But: it was copied from Erwin, and no changes were made in subsequent editions! And furthermore, a repair manual was ripped off from TD and adapted for TDI. What results from that is evident!