Battery Problems? Get Help Now!

The battery in my rice cooker, which powers the flashlight function, doesn't seem to be brand new anymore, and unfortunately, its exact age can't be determined while it's installed. It's a real piece of Japanese engineering, and the only thing legible on it is "12 V / 32 Ah." The battery is also quite small, more tall than wide, and has those thin pencil-like terminals. The acid level is okay, and visually, there's nothing unusual to be seen in the cells.

Besides the fact that the battery is likely already quite efficient for normal conditions, it may not be providing enough starting current. This can probably only be clarified with a battery test. My local independent workshop doesn't offer that service anymore, and in case of suspicion, they simply order and install new batteries.

The battery seems to struggle noticeably when starting both the cold and warm engine, with the first two engine revolutions being noticeably slower. However, it starts perfectly fine, at least now that the temperatures are summer-like.

Today, after three days of operation, the device "A1 411001 B4" malfunctioned and the yellow "EPS" light for the electric power steering illuminated. When I read the OBD data, it showed: "Power steering, safety shutdown, intermittent error, power steering reactivated" with the following conditions: "Error frequency: 1, Voltage: 8.85 V, Fault counter: 1". After reading the data, the power steering was active again with the engine running.

"The 8.85 V seems quite low to me, although I don't know where they were measured. It seems strange that the ground cable from the battery's negative terminal to the chassis, as well as the cable to the engine, are brand new. The cable from the positive terminal to the starter is old, but looks good. It's neither oxidized nor corroded, but it also seems quite thin compared to other cars. In any case, the ground cables are also not very thick."

I'm going to try starting the thing with a second battery next time and compare the results. If it sounds significantly healthier, I'll replace the battery and stop searching for other issues. It could then be a size or two larger (42 Ah) and would still fit in the holder. I know that now. If that doesn't help, I'll check the wiring and measure it. The ground point on the engine is a stud on the engine block itself. It should be working. The ground point on the body is just a stud pressed into a side panel, but it also connects the ground for all the lights and the horn.

The 42A alternator from Nippon-Denso is small, but it apparently charges reliably. About two to three seconds after the engine starts, the regulator kicks in and immediately provides 13.8V (measured via OBD). A few minutes after starting the ride, the voltage reaches 14.0V, which increases to 14.2V after a few kilometers and remains there until the end of the ride. However, you can see every activated turn signal, brake light, or anything else. The voltage jumps within the range of 0.2 to 0.4V.

Is my error analysis correct, logical, or is it nonsense? I'd appreciate honest opinions!

Quote:

The 8.85 V seem quite low to me, although I don't know where they were measured.

When starting, measure the voltage drop at the battery. If the voltage drops too much --> replace the battery .

I would also check/measure the battery positive and ground connections for resistance and, if necessary, clean the connections.

How much voltage drop is acceptable at the battery during starting? Is a memory multimeter sufficient for this measurement?

Do you use the search function, or https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=10964&highlight=batterie?

Japsen batteries are known for their relatively short lifespan.
Around the age of 3-5 years, these batteries are usually worn out and should be discarded. I don't bother with any tests or complicated experiments on batteries older than 3 years; it's just a waste of time. To test it, you can use jumper cables and another car with a healthy battery to see if the starter motor turns over. If it does, you have your answer.
It can also be used for testing by connecting the starter cable ground to the engine and battery, and possibly the positive cable to the starter and battery.
Build the biggest one that fits, and then look forward to a longer lifespan in the future.
Similar to Fiat, these vehicles often have batteries with a very limited lifespan, which tend to fail quickly.

Okay, I guess I'll just have to replace it blindly. I just found a stamp marking "4707" with my flashlight. If that's the manufacturing date (like with tires), then it's really old. I've emailed my battery supplier; they're going to check what size battery can be used to replace it.

Current status: The battery dealer wants to inspect the vehicle in person before deciding what battery can be installed. Optionally, a battery test of the "old battery" can be performed before or after the inspection.

There aren't many options left in this niche format, and most of them now come from Italy: "They don't cost much, but they last for a few years." It's worth knowing that Italian batteries often fail without any warning, while Japanese batteries, even when weakened, can last a long time.

"Genuine Japanese batteries can last between 7 and 10 years if they are not stressed and are appropriately sized. However, even the 36 or 38 Ah versions cost between 80 and 110 EUR. He believes it's simply not worth it. A much cheaper Italian battery will also last for about four years."

Hi,

Sometimes they even last longer: The original battery of the Daihatsu Cuore (the little car with the 850cc three-cylinder engine) that my parents bought new in 1992 was still working perfectly well when the completely dilapidated car was scrapped in 2002, with approximately 120,000 km on the odometer.

Best regards,

Jan.

On Fridays, the battery would fail. The remaining power was only enough for one cycle of the central locking system, including the turn signal confirmation, after which it would be completely drained. On Saturday, I (while riding my scooter) went to get a replacement and installed it today. The difference is noticeable; the new Banner Power Bull (45 Ah) starts the engine with an ease that I wouldn't have expected. The space it occupies is perfect, down to the millimeter. It can't be any bigger without modifications.

On this occasion, I removed the rust from the corroded battery holder and then primed and painted it silver. When you already have the part out...

"Hi Dash" was the name printed on the battery, and the stamp indicated "1003". Therefore, it was as old as the vehicle, and would have celebrated its 10th birthday in two months. This provides a counter-argument to the theory that Japanese batteries have a short lifespan...

Here's an example of the starting process of a 2.0 TDI engine. It also experiences a significant drop in power, and the battery is not brand new either.

Oh dear! Thank you, Rainer! The battery will be put through quite a bit. Just for comparison, what do they put in the 2.0 TDI?

Hi,

Quote:

Just for comparison, what do they put in the 2.0 TDI engines?

Compared to the older TDI models, these cars have batteries that are like dollhouse batteries! I was quite surprised when the dealer took out the 61 Ah battery (which is in a protective casing) when I asked about it in the Octavia demonstrator. My re-imported Ibiza from 2001 had a 70 Ah battery, and I replaced it with a 74 Ah battery in 2012. In the car buying advice thread, I had considered replacing it (i.e., putting the one-year-old 74 Ah battery into the new car), but I was advised against it, citing the on-board network control unit and the battery management system it implements.

Let's see how long this thing lasts.

Best regards,

Jan.

[Translating...]

380A / 80Ah

That doesn't sound very thin.

Hi,

80Ah? Bei welchem 2.0er? In your Audi?

At least Skoda is much more stingy with the battery capacity, offering only the aforementioned 61 Ah.

Best regards,

Jan.

By the way, I learned something else today in another Japanese forum: It's even possible with even less battery power! A 1.1-liter (eight-valve) engine was started in a small car using a 22 Ah motorcycle battery. In contrast, a 1.0-liter three-cylinder engine was started with a 30 Ah battery.