Tensioner Squeak: 1Z Ribbed Belt Tensioner Repair

Hi.

This weekend, I built a VW 3299 tool (to push the tension lever).

When I tried it on a 1Z, the tension arm creaked as I pushed it back quite forcefully.

"" "haehnlein" wrote in another post that the entire console was replaced for him (EUR 300 just for the part }).

Is the arm only supported by friction (like a wobble plate)?
Shouldn't it be able to rotate smoothly? (Of course, with sufficient power.)

Can it be disassembled and lubricated?

The tension element is only one year old and was replaced under warranty by a "VW specialist dealer" because it had shifted several centimeters.

Thank you.
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Is the arm only supported by friction (like a cam)? Shouldn't it be able to rotate smoothly??? (of course, with sufficient power)

Hi,

The support arm can be swung backwards and upwards (rotated within the supporting element), but it requires some force (or torque) to do so.

Normally, it doesn't make any noise when it does that...

Quote:

The swing arm can be pivoted backwards and upwards (rotated within the mounting element). However, it requires some force (or torque) to do so.

Okay, and mine makes a creaking sound, as if the arm is dry inside the console and there's dirt stuck in it.

What do you think of the "Expand-Fat-Install" campaign?

How do you even build that?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Exactly, and mine makes a creaking sound, as if the arm is dry inside the console and there's dirt in it too. What do you think of the "expand-fatten-install" action???

With a bit of luck, it might work... but I'm afraid that the clamping element cannot be disassembled without causing damage .

Quote:

How do you even assemble it???

If I remember correctly:
Loosen the belt until the tensioner roller can "fully relax." Then, unscrew the two mounting screws of the tensioner and remove the tensioner towards the center of the motor.

You mean the two with the green borders?

What does the pink-framed screw actually do?

"There has to be some way to secure the whole thing in place towards the air filter to prevent it from slipping out," I thought. "Isn't that what the pink screw is for?"

I will butcher the thing tomorrow evening and report back here if anyone is interested .

You can find instructions and pictures for the disassembly here:

http://people.freenet.de/golf-schrauber/Spannrolle/Spannrolle_1Z.html

The installation still has to wait because there is no time.

dieselmartin wrote:

There has to be some way to secure the whole thing so it doesn't slide out towards the air filter,

I thought that was what the pink screw does!}
Hi Martin,

A little late, but you're right, as the link also shows.
To install the tensioner, the roller lever can remain mounted, but all three screws must be loosened.

And be careful not to bend the cable too much when you remove the adjuster! (It was a bit tight on my engine).

Too late, Ulf.

"But I made sure to leave the cable undisturbed; with a 1/4-inch extension and a swivel joint, I was able to easily route it around."

I'm just wondering what kind of grease I should use to lubricate the bearing bushings.

- Copper paste
- Storage grease (LM 47 from Liqui Moly)
- Cheap grease in a tube.

I'm sorry, I don't understand the question. Can you please rephrase it?

Currently, I'm leaning towards using copper paste because the console can sometimes get hot, and copper paste is generally the most heat-resistant option.

Does copper paste corrode aluminum and gray cast iron? (Keywords: electronegativity, sacrificial electrode...)

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

I'm just wondering what kind of grease I should use to lubricate the bearing bushings. - Copper paste - Storage grease (LM 47 from Liqui Moly) - Cheap grease in a tube. I'm sorry, I don't understand the question. Can you please rephrase it? Currently, I'm leaning towards using copper paste because the console can sometimes get hot, and copper paste is generally the most heat-resistant option. Does copper paste attack aluminum and gray cast iron?

(Keywords: electronegativity, sacrificial electrode...)
Hi Martin,

For this application with very little movement, I would primarily focus on "wash fastness" (i.e., resistance to spray or splashing) to ensure that the material doesn't become permanently damaged during storage.

Electrolytic processes require water as a "catalyst(?)" according to my knowledge, so oil-bound copper dust should probably be relatively harmless.
If anyone knows more information or has a different perspective on this, please share it!

'cu-paste is always a good thing!'

WHAT A LOAD OF CRAP!!

Now I've cleaned everything thoroughly, installed the lever with copper grease, and replaced both seals...

AND IT STILL CREAKS AND GRATES.

So, the wrench is "rotten" – but it's only one year old.

Should the marking "CZ" lead me to question the quality associated with Czech products?
see here: http://people.freenet.de/golf-schrauber/Spannrolle/DSC01147.JPG

But the spanner is naturally so tight that I wouldn't be able to inject any oil or grease anywhere .

Sometimes it jams so badly that when you slowly release the tensioning tool, the roller almost seems to get stuck in a position where it doesn't press down on the belt at all.

I think the spanner will end up next in a bath of hot oil .
A little bit of it should get inside and help...

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi,

The way the tensioner roller shaft is mounted in the console is a significant design flaw (see my article about it). My dad brought back the old console plus shaft...which may have had some play. No wonder I had to replace the tensioners and belts every 20,000 km...and on the Audi 80, everything else "hits" this damn tension arm .

It would be interesting to know whether the progression of wear between the console and the tension roller shaft can be stopped by using grease . I want my mill to last for 400,000 kilometers .

Hello.

The bearing is designed with rolled composite bearings featuring PTFE inserts in the contact area. Therefore, it requires no oil or grease lubrication! This bearing system is very resistant to dirt, as long as any leakage is not bound by oil or grease. If something isn't working on the clamping device, it's always the clamping unit itself. Of course, you can knock out the bushings and replace them, but this is rarely necessary. The clamping roller doesn't experience that much misalignment.

Best regards, Robert.

Never bold...

And what does this mean?
1. Tension spring.
2. 20 Nm
3. Tension lever.
• with G 000100
bold
4. Dust cap.

I'm sorry, I don't understand the question. Could you please rephrase it?

extracted from the VW manual for engine disassembly.

What is G000100?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

LZ wrote:

Of course, you can knock out the bushings and replace them. But it's rarely necessary. The tensioner roller doesn't usually experience that much misalignment.

Hi Robert,

In our Audi, the misalignment was so extreme that after only 5000 km, the ribbed belt and tensioner pulley (new ) were worn out . How would you have gotten the old bushing out of the console? In my opinion, you could only remove that part using a drill, which would have had corresponding consequences .

Hello.

The bushings are made of sheet metal and can be assembled by squeezing them together with a screwdriver, pliers, etc., and then pushing them out. The two sides can then be separated by tapping them with a round object.
And I still maintain: never use grease! The material is essentially a soft steel sheet that is rolled together with copper (and sometimes zinc, depending on the requirements) and Teflon (PTFE) to create a composite material, from which the sliding bearing bushings are then produced. They may also be formed by swaging for the flange bearings. It's an absolutely maintenance-free bearing.
G 000100 is the standard lubricant for all kinds of problems -> I think Stauffer grease is similar.
If you're going to use grease, then make sure it's good stuff: Amerilube 56 is a seawater-resistant multi-purpose grease for applications where it is absolutely essential that no water gets in.

@haenlein,
Could it be that the wave was bent?

Best regards, Robert.