1Z-ESP tested, individual parts can be replaced

Hello everyone,
My Audi 80 Avant, 1.9 TDI, manufactured in March 1994, likely has a faulty fuel quantity control valve. The jerking I experience when lightly accelerating around 2,000 RPM doesn't occur when the speed sensor is disconnected.
Okay, I've just taken the tests from the "Jetzt helfe ich mir selbst" (Now I help myself) book, and here are the results:

Fuel injection start valve for the ESP: Contacts 2 and 3 of the three-pin connector on the ESP were measured, and a resistance of 9.4 ohms was found between them. According to the manual, the resistance should be 14-18 ohms, and the fuel injection timing valve needs to be replaced.

Measurement of resistance in the ESP: On the round multi-pin connector (7 out of 8 possible contacts are used), a resistance of 1.6 ohms was measured between pins 4 and 7, instead of the expected 0.4 to 1.1 ohms. You should replace the quantity adjuster.

"For ESP rule-following servo motors: Instead of 4.9 to 7.5 ohms, I only have 4.1 ohms between pins 1 and 3 of the three-pin connector." The valve actuator should be replaced.

Okay, here's the translation:

Now, my questions:

- Are these individual components of the ESP replaceable?
- What needs to be done after replacing the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) control unit? While you can certainly adjust various settings with VAG-Com, is that enough? I'm thinking about things like timing belts and other "mechanical" adjustment options.

Thank you!

PS: My ESP has the VAG part number "028 130 109 L" and the Bosch part number "460 404 992".

Okay, I'll leave the question of whether it's worth replacing the individual components for now.

For my part, I would completely remove the ESP system. At least then you have a guarantee!
There are all sorts of things to consider when adjusting it. When changing the water pump, the timing belt has to be removed anyway, so you need to pay attention to the timing when reinstalling the timing belt. Then, in my opinion, the fuel injection timing should first be set statically to a certain basic setting. After that, the engine should definitely start, assuming everything is correct. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, you can then use VAG-COM to dynamically adjust the fuel injection timing.

If you haven't already done it, then don't attempt it yourself; have it done by a qualified specialist workshop. This way, you're guaranteed to be on the safe side!

Hi Tino Kossmann.
When I read about all the things that are supposedly broken on your pump, then only one replacement pump makes sense.
According to Bosch (statement from last Monday), the turnout can be repaired for approximately 800 EUR. The valve for initiating the injection process costs approximately 300 EUR.
I had a new pump installed about an hour ago. The part cost 1050 EUR from Bosch (after negotiation; the regular price is 1020 EUR + VAT).
My engine stuttering (which occurred between 1200 and 1900 RPM when maintaining a constant speed) has completely disappeared. At the same time, the timing belt and the ribbed belt were replaced.

I now have a 2-year warranty on the entire thing again. It's much better than replacing individual components of the pump.

Smooth greetings.
Hermann.

Hi palmstrollo,
I read that you had the exchange today, and I was going to ask you about it anyway... Thank you for the answer here!
You haven't had a hysteresis test done (or performed), have you? I will call Bosch tomorrow and inquire about the prices in the Cologne/Bonn area... 1,000 Euros is a lot of money for a "used" TDI with 154,000 km.

'That's definitely a lot of money! But 150,000 kilometers of mileage is really nothing! It's definitely worth it!'

I saw it exactly the same way. Mine now has 151,000 km. Since I plan to drive it for a few more years, it also saves me a lot of stress...

Regards,
Hermann.