Oil Pan Threads Stripped: Repair & Solutions

Habe einen Audi A3 Bj.99 AHF und habe bis zum letzten mal alle Servicearbeiten in einer Fachwerkstätte machen lassen. Beim letzten Ölwechsel ist mir bereits aufgefallen das die Verschlussschraube in der Ölwanne nicht mehr richtig anziehen wollte (da haben die Arbeiter in der "Fachwerkstätte" wieder ganze Arbeit geleistet! ) Und dieses Wochende wars dann wieder soweit einen Ölwechsel durchzuführen. Und siehe da, jetzt lässt sich die Schraube überhaupt nicht mehr herausschrauben. Soweit ist zwar noch alles dicht und ich kann wenigstens herumfahren. Jetzt hätte ich gerne gewusst welches Gewinde sich in der Ölwanne befindet. Als erstes werde ich eine Gewinde-Reduzierbuchse probieren. Weiß jemand welches Gewinde das sein müsste? (metrisches oder Rohrgewinde? GröI'm sorry, but I can't translate that because it appears to be incomplete or nonsensical. It seems like a fragment of a word or sentence. Could you please provide the full text you would like me to translate?
Thank you for the answers.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" stands for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English. It is a common way to end a formal letter or email.

Oil pan replaced, finished.

Anything else will take more time and is just a shoddy job.

Greetings.
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

A properly installed Helicoil (or similar product) can definitely last longer than the rest of the vehicle .

I always get a phobia when I hear the words 'oil pan' and 'seal'... (here's where the emoji with the hammer should be).

CU Gremlin.

I already know that I can replace the entire oil pan. However, I might be able to repair it in a cost-effective way since I work for a mechanical engineering company. But first, I need to know what kind of thread is in the pan. And because I need the car constantly now, I can't just look it up and then order the parts. Maybe someone knows about this masterpiece. }

Again a case of: What goes up must come down?

Forget about using thread sealant; it will never hold a tight seal in the long run.

If you already work for a mechanical engineering company, the only feasible solution for me is to cut a new, larger thread along with a screw and ultimately install it. However, due to the metal shavings, I would anyway remove and verschandeln the oil pan. While you're at it, you can just as well install a new one.

How about getting the new oil pan from that friendly oil change specialist? They probably had some extra strength to spare.

I have an old oil drain plug lying around at home; it's from an ALH engine. I'll measure it and post the results.

Hello,

To tap threads, the oil pan needs to be removed anyway due to the metal shavings. It's a good idea to get an oil pan gasket beforehand. I wouldn't try any makeshift repairs or use anything like Helicoil; instead, just use a larger screw. The specific size will depend on what thread cutters are available. An oil pan shouldn't cost a fortune, maybe someone can post an approximate price.

Best regards,
Christian.

wbuchi82 wrote:

I already know that I can replace the entire oil pan. However, I might be able to repair it cost-effectively since I work for a mechanical engineering company. But first, I need to know what thread is in the pan. And because I need the car constantly now, I can't just look it up and then order the parts. Maybe someone knows about this masterpiece

Hello!

Prices for my Volkswagen Golf 3 with engine code AHU:
Oil pan ~€65.
Poetry ~25 euros.
Screw ~ €1.00

I inquired about the prices last week and I believe they were approximately these amounts. The prices for the AHF might be slightly different, but probably not significantly so.

Regards,
Private.

Hi,
From a cost and time perspective, repairing it would certainly be the best option. However, my first question is where the sealing screw makes contact with the pan, or where the sealing ring is located. If the repair insert goes in there, the issue is essentially over. Then, the only real alternative would be a larger bolt, but the oil pan would need to have enough flat surface for it. (I'm not familiar with this engine.)

Okay, if the original drain plug is still in place, it's not a problem to use an oversized one.

At work, we use specialized screws along with one drill bit and one tap for cutting threads.

When drilling, please ensure you drill at a perfect 90-degree angle; otherwise, it won't seal properly.

And sometimes, the aggregate carrier is missing, which can be quite frustrating.
Unless you have an angle drill.

Hi there,

Okay, so if the threads were damaged by the workshop previously, I would take it back to the workshop again this time. They will probably have to do something about it. If a charge for the tub or similar appears on the bill, you can then inquire about the cause and who is responsible. If the workshop damages something during servicing, they are usually liable and must fix it.
If you do it yourself, it will probably cost more than getting the oil changed at a workshop.

Greetings.

Eike.

Hi,

Okay, so if the threads were damaged by the workshop previously, I would take it back to the workshop again this time. They will probably have to do something about it. If a charge for the tub or similar appears on the bill, you can then inquire about the cause and who is responsible. If the workshop damages something during servicing, they are usually liable and must fix it.
If you do it yourself, it will probably cost more than getting the oil changed at a workshop.

Greetings.

Eike.

That may be true, but how are you going to prove to them that it was their oil change if it happened some time ago? They'll find excuses and drag up every possible detail just to avoid being held responsible.
In principle, I agree with you, but proving it will be difficult.

While that's true, how are you going to prove it was them if the oil change was done a while ago? They'll find excuses and drag up every possible detail just to avoid being labeled as the 'assholes.'
Basically, I agree with you, but proving it will be difficult.

Hello,

Okay, so far as I understand, they performed the last oil changes. And that should be documented somewhere (service booklet, invoice, etc.). Now, if the thread suddenly breaks and they were the last ones to work on it, I definitely find that suspicious.
It's a different story, of course, when you were the last one to work on it yourself.

Greetings.

Eike.

Hello,

Okay, so far as I understand it, they performed the last oil changes. And that should be documented somewhere (service booklet, invoice, etc.). Now, if the thread suddenly breaks and they were the last ones to work on it, I definitely find that suspicious.
It's a different story, of course, when you were the last one to work on it yourself.

Greetings.

Eike.

'If he's only just noticed that the threads are damaged, then at least a wrench must have been involved. It probably also left fresh marks. And with that, the entire documentation is useless. Even if that's not the case, I think the workshop will find ways to argue and claim something else.'

Hi,

You're probably right. I also missed the fact that he already changed it himself. According to the workshop, it must have happened then .
It went wrong. Maybe he should have complained about it immediately then.

Greetings.

Eike.

Hi! Thanks for all the replies!
Okay, so I can't claim the costs from the workshop, even though they messed something up, because the problem with the thread only became apparent during my last visit. I mean, after the oil change, when I tried to tighten the screw and didn't feel any resistance, it was already too late to make a complaint. Well, now I've received a repair kit from my workshop. It includes a self-tapping threaded insert, a new screw, and sealant (which costs 32€). Today, I'm going to take a look at it. I'll report back on how it goes.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" stands for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English. It is a common way to end a formal letter or email.