Startup Problems: Common Issues & Solutions

The car is a Seat Toledo 1.9L TDI from the year 1996, with 250,000 kilometers on the odometer.
This morning, I started the engine and drove off to the next location, and it started perfectly without any issues, just like always.
10 minutes later, at the next attempt to start, nothing happened. The starter motor could turn, but the engine wouldn't crank (the starter was engaging and turning), and it wouldn't ignite (it's a diesel). The glow plugs weren't receiving power, but with an outside temperature of 15-20°C, that shouldn't be causing too much trouble.

'The seals were checked, and one had been replaced, but there was definitely a reason for that!'
relays are running.
But he just doesn't want to.

After a minute, he slowly starts to gain momentum and then jumps with difficulty and effort!
(We also tried pre-heating it manually once, but it still took about 30 seconds to start up and perform just as poorly.)

Okay, but here's the thing: when it actually runs, it runs perfectly smoothly, just like it has for the last 250,000 kilometers.
Does turning it back on now mean the problem will still persist?

'The workshop checked it but found nothing. After an hour of troubleshooting, they couldn't determine the problem. They had previously replaced the KW temperature sensor, but that didn't make a difference.'

what do you think?
or even better, where can I find a wiring diagram?

Hello,

Broken cable from the dispenser? Dispenser malfunctioning intermittently?
Relay 109?
Air trapped in the line between the diesel filter and the particulate matter filter (DPF)?

Best regards, Rainer.

Does it also start poorly when it's completely warm? When starting, the EDC system sets a starting fuel quantity via the volume control to ensure proper atomization at the low starting (and pump) speed. Perhaps the starting fuel quantity is incorrect for some reason?

Have you ever done a 'Hoppeltest'? Try searching for 'Hoppeltest' online. Perhaps the compression is so low at idle speed that it's not igniting.

Does he really perform as well as usual while driving?

Does he still have the first-generation nozzles?

Best regards,

I just disconnected the relay; it smells a bit funny. But what is the 'Absteller'? (or 'What does 'Absteller' refer to?')

A type of "solenoid valve" in the fuel injection pump.
Turn off the engine (safety feature).

A single red cable runs to the terminal; as long as the motor needs to run, there must be +12V applied to it.
Please do not confuse this cable with the one used for adjusting the spray pattern.

Best regards, Rainer.

'The 109 is activated, the solenoid valve is activated, and it still starts poorly.'
I just received a book and I'm going to take a look at it now, but I'm still open to further assistance if needed.

That just leaves the issue of the timing belt gears...

/viewtopic.php?t=4616&highlight=timing belt sprocket 1Z
/viewtopic.php?t=4844&highlight=timing belt 1Z

Does your TDI engine have the engine code 1Z? The engine code should be listed in the service booklet.

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay, one time.

The problem is that when it does run, it runs very smoothly and evenly, which suggests it's not a timing chain issue. If it were a timing chain problem, it wouldn't run so smoothly.

It all started with a fuel filter that was clogged!
because we switched [something], and then it started sparking as described above.
'But I think testing the compression on the mountain is actually a good idea.'
But otherwise, it runs very well.

list!
Diesel reaches the injectors.
He doesn't want to glow (but that probably won't matter at these temperatures).
The solenoid valve is running.
109 is running.
Fuses are in order.
starter wonderfully

Äsop wrote:

The problem is that when it runs, it runs absolutely smoothly, which means it probably doesn't have a timing chain (ZR), because if it did, it wouldn't run so smoothly.

Wrong...

We just adjusted the times for the mountain crossing to be the same.

but they also tried to start a new project!
109 is getting extremely hot! Therefore, the resistance will increase.

Could it just be the relay?

Äsop wrote:

We just set the mountain times to be equal. but they also tried to start a new project! 109 is getting extremely hot! Therefore, the resistance will increase. Should it just be the relay?

Hi,

Normally, the relay only generates heat due to the power consumption of its coil – approximately 0.5 watts. It takes quite a while for it to become noticeably warm.

If it gets hot quickly, you might have a contact resistance issue at the load connection. Check for discoloration (burn marks?) and verschandeln if necessary.

Alternatively, you can use a VAGCOM device to read the supply voltage of the engine control unit. If the reading is significantly too low (e.g., below 10V) despite having a healthy battery, it increases the suspicion [of a problem].

Quote:

How warm can a relay get? In my case, with the model 109, it gets quite warm after a failed startup attempt. It does turn on, though (at least visually). Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English: "Up" Written on: 2004-05-16 16:48 Title: Hi, I replied to you under the subject line "major startup problems." Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will then give you only the translation, without any explanations. Best regards, Ulf

.
Okay, this actually belongs in here... I deleted the other topic.

Please don't start a new topic every time.


Best regards, Rainer.

Hello...

I had a similar problem...

'Back then, the crankshaft nut was loose on my engine, which caused a change in the valve timing. Sometimes it would run normally, and other times it wouldn't start at all.'

Check if the serpentine belt pulley on the crankshaft moves sideways while the engine is running.

If that were the case, I would do it quickly (or have it done quickly).
...

Best regards, Mike.

It just won't happen.
The second workshop has also given up; they apparently searched intensively for two days, but in my opinion, they didn't come to any conclusions because the 1Z still isn't starting better.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

checklist

- 109 >goes
Spark plugs are removed.
- No preheating needed at these temperatures (15°C or higher)?
- the train is arriving.
- Timing belt tensioned.
- verschandeln filter.
- The solenoid valve is running.
- immobilizer is working.
- no errors found during reading.
- When it's on, it works well.
- He has electricity.

If you turn off a warm engine and immediately try to restart it, it won't work; it starts just as poorly.

help help help

What about the KW screw? Has it been checked yet? It could really be the cause, and ignoring it could become very expensive!

'If it starts up, what does the exhaust look like? Is there white smoke? What is the starting behavior like? Have you checked the valve timing before?'