ASV Ladedruck begutachten | Posts 16+

25-07-2006, 10:24 Subject:

dieselmartin wrote:

Hm, are you also working on something?

Yep, this afternoon at that place.
/viewtopic.php?p=88171#88171

Quote:

If the turbo didn't take so long to cool down, I would almost come those few kilometers to you

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Wait and see how my action turns out today... but I think the cooling of the charger could be accelerated if you lightly spray it with water at intervals of about 20 seconds. Maybe it will even survive unscathed

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To deal with any remaining heat, you can use rags and gloves.

Guest Free account, no CAN development support

Hello dieselmartin,

I've also adjusted the VTG (variable turbo geometry) on my Leon a few times.
I followed Ulf's instructions, but there were two of us. One person was above, while the other...
'Holding the nut with a small water pump pliers, while someone else holds the nut from below.'
fixed. I had previously marked the position of the lock nut. Heat wasn't actually a problem.
It's a problem, but it's not very noticeable.

25-07-2006, 16:57 Subject:

Hi.

Do the GT17 models also still have the set screw for the adjustment rod that I http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/07-Einstellschrauben.jpg found here?

Then I could have the "early" alarm set first.

m;

25-07-2006, 18:46 Subject:

dieselmartin wrote:

Do the GT17... also have the set screw for the adjustment rod that I http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/07-Einstellschrauben.jpg found here?

You mean the adjustment for the "VTG closed" setting? Yes, I think all VTG loaders should have that, including KKK...

Quote:

Then I could have the "early" announcement posted first...

No, that would be pointless because the VTG (Voltage to Ground) has already exceeded the attack level (in your log image: max. PWM value) when the LD (Load Dump) starts to cause overvoltage.
If you screw someone over, you get nothing back except a limp dick.

P.S.: I wouldn't have thought that the formula "80 - PWM" could produce negative values for any MKB

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Okay, I'll correct myself: "100 - PWM" is better.

25-07-2006, 22:42 Subject:

Damn

.

That went wrong!

The VTG rod cannot be swung from the lever.

So, everything will stay the same, I guess.

m;

26-07-2006, 8:05 Subject:

Hm?

Now that everything is back together again, I have an idea:

I am connecting the UDose to the two screws on the UDose mounting brackets.
Then I can pull the can and VTG downwards.
The adjustment rod comes into contact with the stop, and as a result, it is thinner in the area where it interferes with the compressor housing screw (since it is conical).
Now, it should start.

ADVANTAGE: I have the can in my hand and can conveniently "extend" it on the desk.

What do you think about it?

m

26-07-2006, 8:08 Subject:

Yes, try it out...

What about the "pole" solving technique described above?

26-07-2006, 8:23 Subject:

I don't need to open the counter-rod if I can't detach it from the VTG lever to rotate it further.

When you insert a key into the locking nut and move the lever in the coupling between the shaft and the VTG (a type of railway car), you hear a noise from inside the housing, like something rotating that is also under spring pressure. It's a free rotation with a creaking sound from a coil spring.

m;

26-07-2006, 8:46 Subject:

dieselmartin wrote:

I don't need to open the counter-rod, because if I can't get it off the VTG lever, I can't rotate it any further.

Incorrect:

The knurled nut is rotatably seated on the threaded rod!
Okay, loosen the lock nut, turn the knurled nut (which may be stuck depending on the mileage), and then tighten the lock nut again. That's it.

26-07-2006, 9:31 Subject:

That won't work.

If I loosen the lock nut, I can rotate the threaded rod and the lock nut.
I can't/shouldn't unscrew the threaded rod from the UDose.

The raendel screw is a component with a joint connection on the VTG arm.

I need to hold the threaded rod and unscrew the set screw. By doing that, I'm also turning the joint, which isn't supposed to happen.

It should be recognizable in my picture.

26-07-2006, 10:29 Subject:

Can you unscrew the pressure vessel and then rotate the thread, including the pressure vessel? If not, you'll probably have to loosen the lever. Use a magnet to prevent the fuse from flying away. The question is whether you have enough space to reassemble the retaining ring...

I only know it the way Ulf described it, and on mine, the knurled nut is also separate. So, the knurled nut doesn't have a function for you

.

26-07-2006, 10:35 Subject:

HI,

If you're referring to the retaining ring on the VTG rod, which acts as a safety ring, it was already detached, and I'm now aware of that.

It's slowly dawning on me...

You mean that the grooved part has its own separate mother and is only held in place by the conical shaft?!

Okay, here's the translation:

"So, like this:"

26-07-2006, 10:52 Subject:

Yes, exactly. But if it's truly one piece, then it won't come apart, and you'll have to either disassemble the pressure vessel or the retaining ring.

What surprises me about yours is that it really looks like it's made of a single piece, and there's no sealant applied. I have sealant on both the lock nut and the knurled nut.

26-07-2006, 11:24 Subject:

Hm,

"This also looks strange."
http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html

Here, it appears to be rotatable because you can see a gap.
http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/07-komplett-front.jpg

Here we go!
http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/07-Einstellschrauben.jpg

Therefore, I immediately suspected that it was solid, which, however, makes absolutely no sense.

m;

26-07-2006, 12:05 Subject:

"I'll still try to turn it, though. Maybe it just looks stuck (tight fit and a bit of rust)."

When adjusting the turbos, it needs to be done quickly and without endlessly removing and reattaching them.

26-07-2006, 12:09 Subject:

Okay.

Okay, so I'm going to get under the hood for the third time after work today.

m;