ASV Ladedruck begutachten | Posts 32+

Hello,

My Leon is only one month older, and in that case, the threaded insert is definitely conical.
'The rod can be rotated without having to disassemble the can. In my case, the locking lacquer was only applied to the counter-nut.'

Herr Antje wrote:

I'll still try to turn it, though. Maybe it just looks stuck (tight fit and a little bit of rust). When the turbos are being adjusted, it needs to happen quickly and not involve endless assembly and disassembly.

Yep, I agree.

If the knurled nut is not rotatable, why does the upper part have such a complex external shape, as if it were rotatable, instead of a simple sleeve with a single flat end for attaching to the VTG lever?

I admit that the part must be rotatable.

It only looked good in the VNT15 pictures and on the Leon firmly.

Okay, so today I'm getting a load of quick cleaner, and I'm going to try to cheer up my mom.

I will report...
m;

dieselmartin wrote:

The part must be rotatable.

Furthermore, you would then be in the fortunate position to adjust it precisely, and not just in increments of 180 degrees .

UI, you're right...

"it is necessary" or "one must"

m;

I was just at VW.

After I explained to them that I could read the boost pressure values, they described their measurement cycle to me.

"Accelerate to 1500 RPM and read the pressure at 3000 RPM. After that, the Leon will be perfect because by then it will have properly regulated the pressure, and no error codes will be triggered."

Now I'm wondering whether I should really bother fiddling with it, especially since it's not my car and I won't be constantly looking at it.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Now I'm wondering whether I should really mess around with it or not, especially since it's not my car and I won't be constantly looking at it.

Who will take over the responsibility if the loader breaks down?
a) "Honey, could you please..." or...
b) Does she take the car to the workshop herself and completely exclude you, even when it comes to paying for the repairs?

2. If you don't keep experimenting, this forum may miss out on potentially groundbreaking discoveries .

Okay, I really don't understand what the problem is supposed to be. You loosen the lock nut, and then the thin rod can be inserted further or less far into the (hollow) thicker part using the knurled nut. This adjusts the length of the VTG rod.

I've done this many times during my VTG conversion, until it ran without error messages or limp mode (I had to modify the turbocharger so it would fit, meaning I had to install the VTG at a certain angle).

It was a difficult process, and I burned my fingers a few times along the way, but now it's been running for 7,000 km without any error messages.

Mine looks roughly the same: http://www.bilder-hosting.de/img/C7JVQ.jpg

However, the can is positioned slightly higher, which unfortunately means that I can only access it properly when the engine is running (i.e., the rod is retracted and the VTG is closed).

UI,

what a huge picture

Yes, I now know how it theoretically works.

I'm going to get started on it right away, because I can't sleep soundly anyway when that thing is boosting the turbo pressure so aggressively.

m;

HI.

Okay, that went really fast, if you know how .

@Ulf, if you can screw things in without being able to see, the pliers method can also be done alone from underneath.

Here's the result after two rotations with the longer rod.
I would say it's too long because the system becomes sluggish.

Here's the previous text again (now with 100-PWM scaling).

You can also see that it has some delay compared to before, but the overshoot has become significantly smaller. Still, it's a success .

vagtuning wrote:

It's also noticeable that it has some delay compared to before, but the overshoots have become significantly smaller. Still, it's a success

.
Sure.

@Martin
At least now you clearly know which directions the longer rod points in (positive and negative). Initially, I also suggested a significant change of 2 rotations.
Now, carefully consider how far you want to go back towards the "original" setting, then adjust the rod accordingly -> and you're done.

The ideal solution would be to modify the MSG software so that the oversteering is largely eliminated and the system isn't as sluggish as it is with the longer shaft. That's a job for Rainer.

Is it 'proven' that the issue is solely due to the software of the MSG?
Then, wouldn't all devices with the same design have to do the same?

I would also appreciate it if you could provide the part number and revision date of the MSG.

I would also be interested to know if there were any messages in the MSG.

"The account number is 038 906 012 AT. I don't know the SWIFT code at the moment."

The error memory was empty, but the VTG (vehicle tracking system) was very stiff when I bought it (the car had been standing for a year before the purchase).

VTG is now running very smoothly.

m;

vagtuning wrote:

Is it "proven" that the issue is only due to the SW of the MSG? Then, shouldn't all devices of the same model do the same?

Well, that's a bit of a tricky question... if the valve timing gear (VTG) components develop wear-related play over time, it inevitably leads to inaccurate valve control, with gradually increasing over- and underswinging.
Then, of course, the software would be innocent.

On the other hand, from my own experience, I know that the software and hardware of a vehicle don't always work together very well, even without any wear and tear issues.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.
At that point, my Polo had only about 18,000 km on the odometer. But I suspect that with a software modification, Martin's "older" charger could potentially be optimized even further than just by adjusting the VTG (voltage control).