weisser rauch aus dem auspuff | Posts 16+

Hi,

"Definitely don't just put a new sprocket on like that. The power is transmitted through surface pressure, but in your case, there's no surface, just a mountain of rust. It needs to be perfectly flat. So, definitely have it inspected and repaired (if necessary). And don't try to sand it down or anything; it will never become smooth."

Greetings,
dieter

Damn it!
In the past, you could place an order with Volkswagen until 11 AM, and the part would be delivered in the afternoon.
It's arriving on Monday now... it's basically the same thing.

Oh man, I thought it wouldn't be so bad with the kW, but oh well, I guess I have to find the tools somewhere...

If I had overfilled the valves on one or two cylinders while cranking the engine, would I have noticed it?
The car was running, but it was like it was only running on two cylinders.
I didn't hear any knocking sounds, and there was nothing unusual during the drive either. I parked the car while it still had full power...

I just noticed before that sometimes when I was on the highway and took my foot off the gas, I wouldn't have any power, and it would make a terrible noise.
While holding the gas pedal, it then reappeared after 1-3 seconds, and with full power.
I initially attributed it to the turbo's wastegate. However, it seems the problem was actually the pinion gear, which shifted towards the "late" position during deceleration due to the coasting, and was outside of its tolerance range when accelerating. (But it had apparently corrected itself). Now, when starting, it was misaligned again...

Does that align with my theory?

Why a new gasket? I didn't wipe anything, and there's no leakage.
is just sweaty.
I'm not going to bother myself with that.
It's not like the sauce is going to end up on the timing belt...


Okay, I called all the local engine repair shops and also VW dealerships, and they don't have that part.
Is this device officially approved by VW?
If so, they would purchase it.

Hello,

cksIT wrote:

Great, I called all the engine repair shops here, as well as VWS... they don't have that part. is this device officially approved by VW?

If you know a skilled mechanic, you could ask them if they can flatten the stub with a file (maybe in exchange for a case of beer or something). I did this on my girlfriend's AAZ engine, using a new flat file, it took about fifteen minutes of fiddling, and I replaced the pulley and screw. It's been holding up for 110,000 km (fingers crossed...). If you haven't learned how to file, don't do it, it will always end up crooked.

Best regards, Uli.

Okay, if that's the way it is, I'll take a look. I wanted to try the method using a pen.
Where can I get a hardened pen like that?
The only thing that comes to mind right now is drills.
The screw dealer near us doesn't have it.

Evening.
Calling and asking for the tool won't get you anywhere. Visiting the workshop and making a competent impression on the workshop manager usually works. But as Uli S. already mentioned, a calm and skilled hand is probably all that's needed here. However, I would prefer to use a corundum sharpening stone with a grit of 180, and then finish it with a Degussit stone of medium grit. It's not that difficult, definitely not with sandpaper!


Best regards, Robert.

Okay, the car is working again!!!

It was really only due to the misalignment that it was so bad. I bought a new crankshaft sprocket and installed it with a new screw.
"The runout itself was still okay. I checked it with a straight edge, but there wasn't much there. Considering that I've been driving for about 10,000 km with a wobbly disc (I thought the disc was warped because the screw was stuck), this slight imperfection is negligible. It's not wobbling anymore, it pulls straight, and everything is fine again..."