White smoke from exhaust: Causes & fixes

Hello,

Yesterday, after work, my car wouldn't start. I had the heater running, so the water was nice and warm...
He was cranking the engine the whole time, and white smoke was coming out of the exhaust, although not too much. But when the engine finally started, a lot more smoke came out, like a fog machine.
I immediately thought it might be a ZKD issue, but luckily, when it was running, I simply connected a VCDS (VAG-COM) device and read the basic module numbers. --> attachment.
It says that the injection start was at 255. That's quite high, isn't it?
Could it be that it simply ripped the ESP (electronic stability program) sensor off the chassis?
If so, is it also as you imagine it (i.e., a value of 255 means "late")? Then I can try setting it to "early."
If it turns out to be the ZKD, am I forced to have my head shaved?
It never overheated. It just stopped working and wouldn't start properly again.
I had experienced this issue twice before, but I attributed it to having an empty tank and an awkward parking position.

Please search here for the central bolt for the timing pulley on the crankshaft.

Best regards,
Christian.

No, I already have the new screw in. Of course, I'll double-check it again today.

Even a new screw can come loose.
I experienced the exact same thing, and I didn't believe it either, because my engine already used 12.9 screws.
But that's actually how it was.

Greetings,
dieter

Hi,

White smoke? Does it smell like diesel, or is it just the typical water vapor?

Die Werte passen auch zu einem haengenden N108 - aka. Spritzschutz.

I once had a Polo AKU (1.7 SDI) that injected fuel 25 degrees before top dead center, and it produced white smoke as a result.
He was still running, and he was really putting his all into it.

The valve is new, and that's it. / The valve is replaced, and that's all.

He no longer responded to adjustments on the "default" setting in block 004 – and understandably so, since he could no longer adjust the SB (sub-block).

Please check the N108. If it's completely unresponsive, you might want to use an ohmmeter to check its plausibility.
"Zero ohms and infinity are definitely DEFECT values."

martin

It was more of a white/grayish smoke, and yes, it definitely smelled bad.
Sorry, but where exactly is the fuel injector located?

A defective automatic transmission is probably not going to produce those values, right?

You can also tell if a head gasket is faulty by looking at the coolant; it should bubble due to combustion gases. Open the reservoir and carefully look inside (but not too close, as it can sometimes spray out).

Colleague N108 is here, and it's red.

[Translating...]

http://www.kfztech.de/kfztechnik/motor/diesel/edc.htm

ok, thank you! I think I'll have a nice evening.

The electrical connection should be located directly in front of the oil level sensor, within the three-pin connector.

A "Pol" is a shut-off valve, and one or two other valves are the "SBV" (Spritzbeginn Regel Ventil - injection start control valve).

Unfortunately, I couldn't find any better images quickly. However, there should be some in the BOSCH book (Diesel Engine Management).

m;

It's probably the kW issue after all...
I just installed the new clutch, and there are no markings anywhere near the transmission.

Unfortunately, I'm alone right now, which makes it difficult for me to find the marker. I'm currently waiting for my father so that I can set the KW (keyword).

How does it look with the sanding now? Is it possible to do it yourself somehow?

Das Spezialwerkzeug gibt's von Sauer Werkzeugbau. Sollte aber auch in einer gut ausgestatteten VW-Bude vorhanden sein. Vielleicht leiht man es dir aus. Wir hatten mal einen thread, da wurde das Planschleifen bei VW für 60 Euronen gemacht. Look at this...

Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

@ ckit

I would rather set the KW to OT and then look at the cam.

It's easier because you can see the entire cam profile when the valve cover is removed, and you can even measure the offset.

m;

Okay, I did that. --> See the attachment.

I think that might have been the problem...

However, the chain still looks quite good. The damage is really only on the front, while the rear part is still intact. I think you can just replace the front sprocket and the screw.

It looks like a new oil seal would be a good idea.