Autobatterie instandsetzbar? | Posts 16+

@ulf

Why so aggressive and closed off? Can't something be what it can't be?

I'm convinced by this device. As I said, the original batteries in the caravan are in 'excellent condition' and are almost back to the level of new ones. They don't cover the same distances in the caravan as they would in a car (due to the vibration), but the problem of deep discharge is much more pronounced in the caravan. If you can believe studies and statistics, the main cause of battery failure is sulfation, and this device primarily addresses that. In my old car, there's been a Bosch battery in there since 1997. Since about 1999, a pulse generator has been connected to it. So far, I haven't noticed any significant loss of capacity. However, I know from the past that my batteries typically lasted a maximum of 3 years. I can't say for sure whether you can attribute that solely to the pulse generator. Also, my neighbor was very impressed with the effect of the pulse generator. Among the camper enthusiasts, there was someone who conducted proper test series with the pulse generator. The result was a proven improvement in performance in almost all cases. I'm not trying to convince anyone here, and I don't receive any commission. We now have 4 of these devices in the family and are very satisfied.
Regarding the reproduction/copy: Yes, it is possible.

@ulf

The effect is the same one that peak chargers for NiCd and NiMH batteries utilize.

and it works...

By the way, I recently had a battery with a cell short circuit, and it had been through quite a lot.

Otherwise, they will die from sulfation, which is also confirmed by experience in the field. Short distances are just harmful.

You can replicate the pulser, but if you compare it to the Megapulse and some of its clones, I'd rather invest in the original.
There are some kits that drain the battery very quickly, etc.

'By the way, the on-board electronics don't say anything about the original pulse generator. Connect an oscilloscope to see what happens when the glow plugs are activated or when various relays are engaged...'


CU Gremlin.

@gremlin

I agree about the replicas. I looked at two kits once, just out of curiosity, and some of them didn't even have safety circuits. The original is just the original. Do you have one now?

joergs wrote:

why so aggressive and unapproachable. Can't something be what it can't be?

Hm
It wasn't my intention, and where was I being aggressive?
I don't automatically jump on the bandwagon for everything that's praised, and I've tried to formulate my thoughts and questions about the "objective" usefulness.

(Motto: What's the point of having tire sidewall weather protection for 10 years if I've worn the tires down to the minimum tread depth after just 3 years?)

gremlin wrote:

By the way, the on-board electronics don't say anything about the original pulse generator.

Connect an oscilloscope when the glow plugs are activated or when various relays are engaged... }
Hmm... I'm currently thinking about how to represent a voltage of approximately 20V on the vehicle's electrical system.
If the battery seems to draw everything below its current terminal voltage, almost like a black hole, then the 20V source must have a very low internal resistance – or does the battery become relatively high resistance at higher frequencies?

@ulf

It just sounded that way. Your concerns are certainly valid, and your reasoning is understandable. However, there are things that work even if you can't immediately explain them. I got my first pulse generator for free for a quarter of a year to test it. Of course, I experimented with it... I was very skeptical at first.

ulf wrote:

... What should the on-board electronics say about the voltage peaks of 20 volts?

Nothing!
The "Load Dump" test, which is required by many car manufacturers, can briefly cause a voltage of up to 80V on the vehicle's internal power supply.
Those 20V from the pulser are just ridiculous.

hello,
The pulse charging, or reflex charging, of NiCd or NiMH batteries is based on the principle that the large crystals are mechanically broken down by the high current pulse.
A chemical change does not actually occur.

Having worked with and handled a wide variety of batteries, including lead-acid (both flooded and gel), NiCd, NiMH, and Li-ion, I can tell you that you're very lucky if a new lead-acid battery already has 90% of its capacity.

Reflex charging works relatively well with NiCd batteries.
You can try to improve an old battery that's already nearing the end of its lifespan, and maybe get another 10% of use out of it, but then it will be completely worn out, just like before.
If you start charging the battery with a reflex charge, the voltage level will be better than without it. However, the lifespan will be the same as if you were charging it completely without a reflex charge.
My NiCd trickle charger, however, has discharge pulses that are 1µs long, occurring once every second. The current strength depends on the battery. In essence, the battery is short-circuited for those 1µs.
Therefore, the discharge current pulse is solely dependent on the internal resistance of the battery and the connecting wires. Depending on the battery, this can range from 100 to 200 amps.
You can even hear the battery crack quite distinctly.

I don't know if a megapulser works.
Based on my experiences with lead-acid batteries (including attempts to recharge them, etc.), I don't believe it will work. Lead-acid batteries are simply problematic.

But at 64 euros, I'd rather spend a few extra euros and buy a new battery.
For the average car owner, a battery typically lasts up to 10 years, provided you don't use features that draw a lot of power, such as headlights or accessories like a heater or car stereo.
greetings

Gremlin wrote:

You can replicate the pulser, but if you compare it to the Megapulse and some of its clones, I'd rather invest in the original. There are some kits that will drain your battery, etc., etc.

Hmm, it would certainly be interesting for me to design a replica circuit diagram at least once.

Has anyone by chance looked at the signals from an original device on an oscilloscope and can describe the approximate shape and duty cycle?

There was something about it in the Elektor magazine, issue 9/2001.

If I have the time, I'll connect the oscilloscope this weekend.

Okay, let's *dig up* some old stuff again!

I purchased the quite expensive Megapulse exhaust system from the company Novitec earlier this year.

Despite the expensive batteries, the long distances driven, and the auxiliary heating system in the TDI, I have been struggling with short battery lifespans. Apparently, the battery in the diesel engine still has to do quite a bit of work. }

Okay, so I did it... I connected the device to my 95Ah long-life battery from Varta/Audi.

During my annual inspection, I have now exposed the battery vent caps in order to check the level of the battery acid.
Nothing was missing, and I was only surprised that I couldn't see any lead sulfate deposits. Nowhere. I then took some sample material from the bottom of the battery with a syringe, but I couldn't find any lead sulfate there either. The inside of the battery looked like it had just been filled.
The battery was also fully charged, and applying a 12V charging voltage for a short period (less than 5 minutes) quickly resulted in a voltage exceeding 15.5V.

Yesterday I went to a dealer because I wanted to have the battery capacity checked. The result was that 96% of the capacity was still available. That's a great result for a battery that's 1.5 years old. In my previous car, after one year, there was usually only 70-60% capacity left.

Next week, I'm going to try charging the 4-year-old 43Ah battery in my wife's Clio using the Megapulse charger, to see if it can remove some of the lead sulfate buildup.

Hey there!

Just keep in mind that the deposits won't disappear immediately from your Clio. It takes a little time. So, you can safely leave it in the car for a couple of months...

Hi,

On the forum at www.fingers-welt.de, he has a link to a schematic diagram for a desulfator, along with a detailed description (in English). This device can be easily built for about 10-15 EUR and is supposed to work as intended.
http://www.rafoeg.de/20,Artikel_&_Dokumentenarchiv/30,Wissenswertes/DESULFATOR.PDF

Greetings.

Eike.

Well... it's just a cheap imitation anyway.

If you connect an oscilloscope, you can see the differences.

And even with this circuit suggestion, the battery will eventually drain.


'quote:'

This circuit draws approximately 40 mA from the power source.
battery consumption during operation (less than 1 amp-hour per...
day), so an additional charging source is required.


Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Cu Gremlin'

The Novitec part switches on cleanly above 13 volts and off below 13 volts.

The Novitec part activates cleanly above 13 volts and deactivates below 13 volts.

Hi,
The function should be easy to add with minimal effort. Alternatively, the circuit could be activated via a relay as soon as the ignition is turned on.

I understand that this circuit doesn't produce the exact same signal as an original Megapulse. However, it seems to achieve the same result, and that's what matters. I don't find it particularly disadvantageous if this circuit achieves the same result over a longer period, compared to the (much more expensive) original in a shorter time. After all, you don't just remove the battery to desulfate it; you're meant to leave the device connected in the car for a long time.


Greetings.

Eike.

Hi there,

Regarding the topic of what this device does in the vehicle's electrical system: I have the cheaper version, which is from IVT (a subsidiary of Conrad?) and costs about 15€. The device is housed in a small automotive relay casing and generates a charging pulse approximately every 50 seconds. I was also concerned about my vehicle's onboard electronics, so I connected an oscilloscope. Channel 1 shows the battery voltage, and channel 2 shows the charging current (1mV = 1A).



Greetings.
dieter