Tuning plugs: DTE & 10c performance upgrades.

Hello,

I received a DTE tuning adapter as a gift. It looks like a simple 10C tuning module. A cable comes out of the box, and at the end of that cable is a 9-pin Sub-D connector.
Okay, so I took the thing apart, and at first glance, it looks like it's just a junction box where some wires are routed out. The owner of the part said that the 'chip' was located on the 9-pin connector.
I want to go ahead and use this as a basis for my 10c tuning. Pins 2 and 3 are present in the exposed cable, so I'm hoping I can connect my diodes and potentiometer there.
Is there anything wrong with trying it that way?

Best regards,
Ronny.

Hello Ronny,

"There's nothing against it. My Alpin Box is wired the same way. Additionally, there's an extra pin for the mass airflow sensor (MAF) signal on the 9-pin Sub-D connector. As a test, I soldered a 1kOhm potentiometer with two antiparallel 1N4148 diodes onto a circuit board and connected it to the connector, and it works perfectly."
The pins on the Sub-D connector are simply taps on the pump connector.

Unfortunately, even two antiparallel diodes are not enough to keep the idle voltage stable when increasing the power significantly, so I put my old Alpin Box back in .

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

Okay, I heated the thing up in the oven and got rid of all the stuff that was cast around it.
It's actually just an 'extension' with a tap. A cable burned out inside at some point, but the two I need are still present and undamaged. Originally, 4 wires were tapped into it, but I have no idea what the other two were used for.
I don't really need the aesthetically pleasing aluminum casing, but what can you do, it's still nicely packaged.
If anyone is interested:
http://www.fzr-600.de/usenet/Bild00005.JPG
http://www.fzr-600.de/usenet/Bild00006.JPG

I'm going to go shopping tomorrow morning. What do I need? One 1kOhm resistor, one switch, two diodes?

Best regards,
Ronny.

Hello Ronny,

For the potentiometer, a sealed rotary potentiometer is recommended; it's a bit more expensive, but much more adjustable. A 470 Ohm potentiometer might also be suitable; I had to turn my 1 kOhm potentiometer almost all the way to the end.

Regards, Rainer.

PS: Of course, you only switch your switch on at the racetrack.

Sure, you only switch your switch on at the racetrack.

No question, not on public roads!

'The parts are really cheap. I can definitely afford to buy a lot of them. Tomorrow, I'll just be doing some quick wiring and testing to see what happens.'
Then I can still think about the best way to integrate it into the car.
Anyway, I'd like to give a big compliment and thank you to the forum here!

Best regards,
Ronny.

P.S.: I'll let you know if it works out...

Okay, it's me again...
So, I was out shopping, and I just quickly threw this all together.
Overall conclusion: I am thrilled.
Upon closer examination, however, some inconsistencies become apparent.
The resistor I'm currently using has a value of 183 ohms. This is the setting of the potentiometer.
This value seems a bit low to me, so I'm curious to know what settings other people are using.
Furthermore, in my car, the mass airflow sensor (MAF) is barely functioning. The measured values are just within the normal range. However, this is only because the crankcase ventilation system is disabled.
Because the LMM value is too low, very little fuel is being injected, and I suspect that explains the low resistance value. That's why it's only producing moderate soot.
In my case, there's almost no point where it really smokes heavily. If I turn it too far, it actually starts to stutter and nothing happens anymore.
In my case, it's an AFN engine in a Passat 3B.
I was able to determine the following values for the pass-through:

2-4 minutes without: 8.7 seconds.
with: 6.5-6.7 seconds.

80-120 km/h in 5th gear, without: 13.6 seconds.
with: 11 seconds

I'm having trouble understanding how to use the dynamometer. At least, I haven't been able to figure out what the theoretical power output of the engine is.
Opinions?

Best regards,
Ronny.

rl2664 wrote:

I'm somehow not getting along with this dynamometer.

At least, I wasn't able to figure out how much power the engine theoretically has. }

Hi Ronny,

Please enter the standard (paper) values for your car in the DZR. It is particularly important to enter the actual weight during the test drive and the real speed at 2000 rpm.
This calculates the time it normally takes for the car to reach 2000 to 4000 rpm when driven at full throttle.

Then you try to adjust the input values for engine power increase or decrease to match the measured 2000-4000 time as closely as possible, and you will then see the "actual engine power" displayed, which indicates how much power would theoretically be required to achieve the measured time.

Hello Ulf,

Great, I was completely clueless again...
According to that, I need to deduct 5% to account for my time. I think it's probably due to the LMM (likely mass media).
And then you'd need to add another 25%, and it would be about right. That would mean an effective increase of 20%/128-132 horsepower. At least, theoretically.
I don't really want to know that much detail...

Best regards,
Ronny.