Hilfe Einspritzpumpe Einstellung nicht möglich!!! | Posts 16+

I had someone check the injectors, the glow plugs, and the hydraulic lifters, but the differences were too significant. I suspect you have a problem with the injectors or compression, or the VP44 pump is drawing in air. But if Christian already said you should provide all your data, please do so.

Hello,

It's been a while since I've been here. The fuel injectors were checked, and all were okay except for one, which was replaced. According to Audi, the turbocharger has some minor signs of wear, but it's not severe. I'll have it replaced soon, but I need to wait for a warranty claim approval. (It's part of the service history).

Still having trouble starting.

Habe über die Feiertage die Spannrolle für ESP getauscht weil sie hin und her schwankte. Dabei auch gleich die statische Einstellung der NW zu KW und ESP mittels Arretierungen /Dorn geprüft, alles iO. (8 Stunden mit Kollegen) Es stimmt, danach war Einspritzzeitpunkt genau 1,8° n. OT musste nur leicht auf 2° n. OT Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Please correct the following text."
It still won't start, and it's running extremely slowly.

I'm going to temporarily clamp off the oil feed line, the fuel supply line, and the fuel return line before the ESP (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) overnight to completely rule out any "air leaks." If it then starts perfectly, it means it's drawing air somewhere. Although, there's nothing visible in the clear hose after the fuel filter.

I don't even know what else to do anymore.

Best regards, Rainerfrank.

You've already described what else needs to be done: check for air leaks.

"If your glow plugs have worn out, you might also have a compression problem. If you repeatedly activate the glow plugs (without starting the engine) when it's cold, does that improve the situation? Is your engine actually glowing? What are the temperature readings from the engine control unit? It's possible it thinks it's warm outside."

1. Temperature readings are all within acceptable limits, all within a 2° tolerance, and the sensors are also new!
"The spark plugs are new and working, but mine is in a heated (15°C) garage."

"I pressure-tested the fuel supply and return lines with clear tubing overnight. Unfortunately, there's no improvement; it still starts poorly. The return lines are new; they must have been replaced during the pump change. However, if the "leak" is in the filter/valve, would there be air in the filter? So, I'm going to seal off the fuel supply and return lines before the filter and create a vacuum with a pump/pressure gauge. Any leak should then be visible. Or is it the cold start quantity?"
Where would compression problems suddenly come from? A broken piston ring, a stuck valve, or even a hole in the piston?
How can I check the compression? How do I install a spark plug with steel leads and a high-pressure gauge? How do I warm it up? How do I remove all the spark plugs, disconnect the ESP connector, and then crank each cylinder individually using the starter?

Best regards, Rainerfrank.

Due to a compression test, to see if it works, I'm not sure. For example, compression loss could be caused by a faulty hydraulic pump, which in turn could be caused by a worn-out water pump.

I don't believe in cold start amounts. But if the pump has been replaced and the service book is still there, then that's their problem.

Hello,

I checked the diesel filter/valve for leaks and it was fine, there were no leaks, and the vacuum was maintained. So, I can rule that out now.

I used VAG-Com again to read the error memory. There are no errors registered.
Is it normal for the "Injection Start Command" value (Value 2) to always be 2.4° n.OT at idle (789 RPM)? As you mentioned, 2.0° n.OT seems to be the ideal value, and when I increase the engine speed, the value decreases, and the "Actual" value (Value 3) follows the "Command" value nicely. However, this doesn't happen at idle.

Best regards, Rainerfrank.

Hello,

I just remembered something, can I record the startup process using VAG-Com?
draw any conclusions from it.

Insufficient compression should logically lead to an increase in the amount of fuel injected, exceeding the permissible difference of 1.5mg/H. By the way, the workshop foreman told me that the permissible difference is actually 2mg/H. But now, all of my readings are within the tolerance range (max. +/-0.8mg/H).


Good night then.

Rainerfrank

Due to the start of injection. 2 NOT is ideal, and the highest value during the initial setting (at the stop, therefore). I find the injection start at 2.4 suspicious; I can't reconcile that with the prescribed start of injection. It should be within the tolerance range when it's exactly at OT . Therefore, it's logical that it can't reach its target in the low load (LL) range. I should check mine. But mine usually follows its target value.

If he follows the prescribed limits for LL, then the arrangement is already okay.

Rainerfrank wrote:

Insufficient compression should logically lead to an increase in the amount of fuel injected, exceeding the permissible difference of 1.5mg/H. By the way, the workshop foreman told me that the permissible difference is actually 2mg/H. But now, all my readings are within the tolerance range (max. +/-0.8mg/H).

I had a misaligned injection timing, faulty injectors, worn rocker arms, and worn valve plates. Additionally, the opening pressure of all the injectors was incorrect, and the spray pattern wasn't optimal either. At that time, I had an idle speed regulation of less than 0.5 (for all cylinders). Now, I have no further comment on this matter; I can say whatever I want anyway.

Hello,

I'd like to thank you all for your help. I know I've sometimes been a bit annoying.
Unfortunately, I had no other option but to part ways with this car, as the damage has reached a level that is not befitting of a premium manufacturer.
It's unacceptable that after 120,000 km, the camshafts are worn, the fourth fuel injector is installed, the variable geometry turbocharger (VGT) is stuck (2nd turbo), the crankcase ventilation system is clogged, and then the engine loses compression.
Either the speedometer has been tampered with, or the 2.5 TDI engine is really that bad. I wish all 2.5 TDI drivers good luck and competent help from your forum, because they're going to need it.

Best regards, Rainerfrank.