Zylinderkopfschrauben nachziehen? | Posts 16+

'It's a 90 horsepower manual transmission car with an automatic gearbox, 11mm pistons, and 184 injectors. Nothing too extreme. It can't have more than 110 horsepower. According to the GPS, it's running just under 200 km/h.'

Okay, so I should monitor the water level and continue driving? If I start to notice a clear loss of water, should I stop?

Does anyone know if it's easy to access the heater core in a Golf 4/Bora to check it for leaks?

Quote:

The water temperature did not exceed 95°C, and both radiator hoses were hot. Around the container, new traces of water could be seen. When I opened the container, I observed something like gas. There were many small bubbles, similar to those in a sparkling water bottle. I closed the lid again.

As an exception, I would suggest starting here: The thermostat opens at 87° and is fully open at approximately 102°. If you're already reaching 95° or even higher with the current outdoor temperatures, I'm concerned that the cooling performance may not be sufficient as the outdoor temperatures continue to rise. Therefore, I would recommend starting by checking the thermostat.
Renew and check the coolant circuit (as previously described), regardless of whether the water pump is leaking or not.

Leave the heating system's heat exchanger alone, unless you're bored.

I just want to check if it's leak-proof. I've seen before that these things can drip. The liquid flows under the carpet, and you don't realize it's leaking.

Okay, tomorrow the temperature sensor will be installed again instead of the pressure sensor. Then I will observe the water temperature for a few days, and after that, I will replace the thermostat. Afterwards, I will see if there has been any change in the temperature.

polo2f wrote:

I just want to check if the thing is sealed. I've seen before that these things can leak. The stuff flows under the carpet, and you don't realize it's leaking.

If it's already printing from the container and you're using relatively little material, it's probably still sealing well. It wouldn't be losing just a few drops at your system's pressure.

Normally, you would feel moisture under the dashboard, near the center console. However, I'm talking about the G3 model. You could check the height at which the hoses pass through the firewall.

BM wrote:

The thermostat opens at 87° and is fully open at approximately 102°. If you are already reaching 95° or even more with the current outdoor temperatures, I am concerned that the cooling performance may not be sufficient as the outdoor temperatures rise.

Hmm, I see things a bit differently:
The thermostat is located at the cold water inlet and maintains the water temperature in the water heater (approximately) at a constant level.

The water sensor, on the other hand, is located at the hot water outlet, facing the radiator.
When the engine is running at full load, the water between the thermostat and the sensor will naturally become hotter than when it's running at a low speed.
Approximately 5,000 euros above the entry level is, in my opinion, not a concerning amount.

Due to the temperature, I'm having trouble keeping my coolant temperature above the thermostat's opening temperature (which is the same). I'm currently reaching 95°C, but that's only happening in the summer. I'm measuring this with VAG-COM. I also think 95°C is quite high, especially for my V6 engine, and especially at higher speeds. My V6 engine also has the measurement points as described.

As long as there is no coolant flow through the radiator, the thermostat will have a temperature almost identical to the outlet side, as it is essentially being heated from the inside. Otherwise, it would (almost) never open.

My experience with a defective head gasket is that it can also raise the engine temperature by a few degrees.

Quote:

Because of the temperature. I can barely keep my box above the opening temperature of the thermostat (same opening temperature) with this weather. 95°C was something I could only achieve in the summer. Measured with VAG-COM.

That's the same with my car. Unfortunately, we don't know what method he used to determine the temperatures, and we don't know if the values are accurate.
"I have also observed temperature increases in cases of faulty head gaskets. However, in those cases, the head gaskets were so severely damaged that the water circulation was disrupted to the point where a larger amount of coolant (below the boiling point) was being forced out, which doesn't seem to be the case here to the same extent. Therefore, I am being cautious in my assessment, although I still suspect a faulty head gasket."

The temperature was measured using VAG-COM.

Okay, I've been using the Type K temperature sensor for a few more days. The normal operating temperature is 90-92°C. At full throttle, it's 95-98°C. The oil temperature at full throttle is 118-120°C. During normal driving, it's around 90°C.

'But the problem has now been resolved. I just bought a car that was involved in an accident, and it has an AJM engine. I've been really annoyed with the vibrations from my VP system for a long time. Let's see what this 'rumble-injector' technology can do.'

I found the cause during the engine rebuild. It was most likely due to excessive temperature. There was a thick layer of dust and debris between the air conditioning condenser and the water radiator, which prevented the water radiator from cooling effectively.