Einspritzdüsen (Düsenhalterkombi) ausbauen ... MKB AFN | Posts 16+

No, it's a right-hand thread.

But if you can't achieve anything with a wrench, I doubt you'll be able to do much with a sliding hammer.


"Hey Rainer, why would WD-40 cause problems? I've always used it normally, but if it shouldn't be used, I would have used penetrating oil or something similar instead..."

M14x1.5 right-hand thread.

Rainer K. wrote:

M14x1.5 right-hand thread

Thank you.
I'm going to make an adapter for the sliding hammer; it's better than messing around with welding.

The nozzle holders are all securely fastened, and you can tighten them firmly with a 15mm open-end wrench or an adjustable wrench with an extension; there's absolutely no problem.

Regards,
Jens.

Hello,

Quote:

@rainer why would WD-40 cause problems?

The rust and fine dust that sits in the gap between the nozzle holder combination and the ZK (presumably a connector or housing) gets soaked, and based on experience, this causes even "normally secure" nozzle holder combinations to become even more firmly stuck.
A dry build-up method has always worked most reliably for me when the water temperature is warm or hot.

Best regards, Rainer.

To achieve a better pull, you can also screw on a tie rod end (!), which has the same thread.

Constantly wiggling the adjustable wrench back and forth, never applying enough force to break the threaded housing, has sometimes helped. At first, you won't see any movement, but eventually, the rust will give way.

Okay, I've also had the problem with extremely stuck threaded connections before. I bought pure penetrating oil at the hardware store, without any additives or lubricants. Then, I soaked the threads with it every day for a week. After a week, the threads could be moved a little. Then, I used a 15mm wrench with an extension to move them back and forth. It takes a little time, but it works.

I've also encountered situations where the threaded fitting at the bottom of the fuel injector came loose due to repeated assembly and disassembly. In those cases, nothing would work. Since the cylinder head was already removed, we screwed in an old fuel injector and then pushed the entire assembly out from the cylinder side.

Hi,
I reinstalled the rebuilt turbocharger, and the engine is running again.
I followed Rainer's instructions, so I loosened the mounting screws of the tensioning arms and started the motor to warm it up.

Then, I used the large wrench and the drift hammer again.
Nothing is moving .

*grmfx*

Jens.

Quote:

Warm up the engine.

Not warm, but full throttle.
It's best to always drive diligently at 2200 rpm, fully accelerating and then releasing the gas. However, after about 10 km, these things will start to fail and begin to break down.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

Not warm but full throttle. It's best to always use full throttle consistently at 2200 rpm, but avoid sudden changes. After about 10 km, they will likely start to fail and begin to degrade.

Okay.
I'm trying to do that when my turbocharger is properly controlled again .

Currently, I suspect that the N75 valve is not functioning as it should (see another thread).

Regards,
Jens.

One more quick question:

How much should the tensioning screws be loosened?
One rotation?

2mm of clearance at the bracket.

Okay, the nozzles are now outside.
Unfortunately, the method of "loosening the nozzles while driving" did not work at all.
Even driving 50 km (as difficult as it is currently with the turbo problem) didn't impress the nozzles.

Here's a small photo series showing how I figured it out.
In the process, I bent two M10 threaded rods, so I had to replace them to continue working. I even broke (sheared off) one M10 threaded rod.
"Nozzles adjusted for lower fuel consumption would never have worked, not even if we had run the engine at full throttle constantly."

Regards,
Jens.