Boost Control Valve 1Z: Questions & Answers

Hi.

YES, I have already searched, but:

1. My VW dealer does NOT offer any trial exchanges. It's an electrical part, and if it goes over the counter like that, it's mine .

2. No error codes have been read yet. I suspect there might be a slight decrease in performance occasionally, which disappears after a restart.


Okay, so, the actual question:

That thing is making a hell of a noise!

It rattles so loudly that you can hear it even with the engine running.

I've read in other forums that someone replaced their rattling valve and the new one was silent (but it didn't solve their problem).

Do the valves always make noise?
Is the rattling sound acceptable, or does it indicate damage?

I asked 3 VW dealers about this, and I received 5 different answers.

Thank you for the tips.
martin

Hello,

Check out: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=379&highlight=ladedruckventil

As mentioned before: If it makes that much noise, you should replace it. It doesn't cost a fortune.

Sorry for asking another "canned question" .

But this time, I really looked for it.

For those who are interested: The part with the code G3 1Z now costs almost 35 EUR.

028 906 283 F

Greetings.
m;

Hello TDI enthusiasts!

Has anyone of you ever investigated the temperature dependence of the valve noise?
"I only notice this component when the outside temperature is below approximately -5°C. It then makes a very loud clicking sound that can be heard inside the vehicle. At higher outside temperatures, there is practically no noise inside."
Initially, I thought it might be a problem with the valve actuation (lifters). However, I quickly realized that it was a noise with a fixed frequency that was independent of the engine speed, and I identified the valve as the source of the problem.
Is it possible that this component is about to fail?

Thank you for the posts.

Regards,
Alex.

Outage... That's the question.

I always hear that thing.

Therefore, I visited three different VW workshops.
First: Knocking is normal.
Second: If it rattles, it will soon break.
"If it rattles, it's broken." (He even tried to sell me the idea that the pulsed control signal was a defect of the engine control unit!!!!)
Workshop 2, a few weeks later: It's normal.

"They're crazy! Why doesn't VW even know what VW is anymore?!"

I read in another forum that someone had problems (loss of power) with their Audi and, suspecting a problem, replaced the valve. The new valve didn't rattle, but it didn't eliminate the loss of power, which was actually caused by a leaky hose.

I'm now tempted to just replace the valve "for the sake of it."
It's a shame that my VW dealer no longer accepts electrical parts for return. Even a brief connection for 10 seconds would be enough to test the noise level.

Greetings.
m;