Boost pressure for the Ducato 2.5/2.8 TDI and VAG 5-cylinder 2.5 TDI?

Hi there,

Could someone possibly tell me the maximum turbo boost pressure for a Fiat 2.5 TDI with 116 horsepower?

I'm also interested in the LD (likely referring to a specific part or component) for the 2.8 TDI 122 PS engine, as well as those for the ACV, AAT, and ABP engines.
as long as they have the same displacement-to-power ratio.

Thank you in advance.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Cu Rod'

Hi,

Could someone possibly tell me the maximum turbo boost pressure for a Fiat 2.5 TDI with 116 horsepower?

I'm also interested in the LD (likely referring to a specific part or component) for the 2.8 TDI 122 PS engine, as well as those for the ACV, AAT, and ABP engines.
as long as they have the same displacement-to-power ratio.

Thank you in advance.
Cu Rod.

Hi Rod,
I don't have any data for Fiat models, but I do have data for Volkswagen and Audi.
ACV = 0.6 - 0.8 bar at 3000 RPM.
AAT (Airflow Temperature) and ABP (Boost Pressure) are 0.84-0.94 bar at full throttle in 4th gear while braking to 50 km/h.

Best regards, Kurt.

Hi Kurt,

Thank you for the information. So, I can probably assume that...
The Fiat 2.5 TDI engine with 116 horsepower should have a turbocharger boost pressure of approximately 0.8 - 0.9 bar.

Unfortunately, mine only reaches 0.6 bar, and when I disconnect the pressure sensor.
(Only the pressure hose needs to be disconnected; it's a fully mechanical VP37.)
I'm getting a pressure of 0.9 to 1.0 bar.
Everything is very questionable .

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Cu Rod'

Hi Rod,

Thank you for the information. So, I can probably assume that...
The Fiat 2.5 TDI engine with 116 horsepower should have a turbocharger boost pressure of approximately 0.8 - 0.9 bar.

No, you can't. I don't have any information about the maximum boost pressure.
Your tire pressure should be between 0.6 and 0.84 bar, so a reading of 0.6 could be perfectly fine.

Unfortunately, mine only reaches 0.6 bar, and when I disconnect the pressure sensor.
(Only the pressure hose needs to be disconnected; it's a fully mechanical VP37.)
I'm getting a pressure of 0.9 to 1.0 bar...

I'm not very familiar with the fully mechanical VP37 .
I would have rather expected a 0 460 414 120 or 128 .

Everything is very questionable .
I think so too.

Perhaps it's better to specify the exact problem, for example: 'My Fiat 2.5 TDI with 116 horsepower suddenly can't even pull a herring.'
Or what's the problem?

Best regards, Kurt.

Cu Rod[/quote].

Hi Kurt,

Sure, I meant the standard VE4, not the VP37 .

The problem is the following:

Bought a WoMo:
Cold start is very poor, rough idling, slight blue smoke.
It worked better when it was warmer.

The KSB (fuel shut-off valve) doesn't seem to be working (it's receiving 12V but nothing is happening).
When operated manually, the adjuster works as needed.


We replaced the timing chain a few days ago.
Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to test drive it beforehand...

After the timing belt replacement, the car felt a bit sluggish. It could only reach about 80% of its maximum speed.
It took him a lot of attempts and effort to finally reach the maximum speed.
Full power wasn't available either, as it always slowed down when going uphill.

We initially thought the wastegate might be stuck.
However, that was probably not the case. Afterwards, the boost pressure was measured.
And I've also driven it with the wastegate disabled.
No matter which 'mode' you choose, it's always the same game.

After that, adjust the pump to its maximum setting, and then later on, shift it back by about 6 degrees (it was initially set to its maximum early timing).
Lief sehr bescheiden. Sehr unruhig. Lots of smoke.

Danach um etwa 3° zurück verstellt (3° später). WieThat's crap.

Then, adjust the timing of the ESP by one tooth on the crankshaft (i.e., approximately 3 degrees earlier).
Absolutely nothing. The engine wouldn't even start.

Now I've reset the Z-R and set it to approximately 1 degree retarded.
It's running very well, but the performance still isn't quite there yet.

Sure, things would be easier with a measuring instrument.
Unfortunately, I don't own any of those myself...



And the turbocharger pressure thing is important to me.
'Firstly, I wanted to know the condition of the engine.'
and planned to increase the ESP voltage in the future.
and possibly increase the loan-to-deposit ratio (LDR).

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Cu Rod'

Hi Rod,
Cold start is very bad, it shakes when idling, and there's a slight blue smoke.
Wenn's wärmer war, lief es besser.
Check the preheating system, install transparent tubing for the inlet and outlet lines, open/close the union nuts of the injection lines one by one, and listen for any changes in sound.

Now I've reset the ZRP and set it to approximately 1° later.
Läuft sehr gut, aber die Leistung ist immer noch nicht ganz da.

It doesn't sound good; having one tooth forward and two teeth backward suggests a serious problem .

Yes, of course, everything would be easier with a dial indicator.
Doch leider darf ich keine mein Eigen nennen...

I haven't used a dial gauge like that for about 2 years; instead, I use the Kuddelschraube And the turbocharger pressure issue is important to me.
'Firstly, I wanted to know the condition of the engine.'
and planned to increase the ESP voltage in the future.
und unter Umständen den LD anzuheben.

I would say we can take care of that once you've found your original setup again.

Greetings, Kurt.

Hi Kurt,

Thank you for the tip about the screwdriver . I wouldn't have thought of that.
I think I can manage it too. Although I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to working on pumps.
'But I already changed the tire right there in the parking lot next to the highway.'
and the engine (VE4) of my old Ducato was rebuilt after a piston failure.
Therefore, the calibration process shouldn't be too difficult .


You probably didn't quite understand what I was talking about regarding the teeth.
I've reset the Z-reference to its original position.
and only rotate the ESP by about 2mm later.
It's running smoothly now, but it hasn't reached its full potential yet.


I'll go get the screw now and adjust the ESP.

I will report.
Best regards, Rod.

Hi Rod,
Have you solved the problem?
What was it?
Best regards, Kurt.