Timing belt replacement on a 1.9L PD TDI (Articles)

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Timing belt replacement on a Volkswagen Golf IV 1.9L PD TDI (with engine code AXR).


This guide has been created to the best of our knowledge. The author assumes no responsibility for damages.
Replacing the timing belt is not rocket science. Nevertheless, a certain level of technical skill and understanding of engine mechanics should be present. }
It is also important to have the special tool for locking the crankshaft and camshaft. This is available from VW or from HAZET.
A mounting device for the engine is beneficial because the right engine mount needs to be removed. However, it is also possible to support the engine from below using a jack. It should be noted, however, that the space underneath the car is also needed (e.g., a pit or a lift).

First, you should remove all the plastic components located below the engine. Then, the pipes connected to and from the intercooler should be detached. For some Golf VI models, it is advisable to remove the bumper and the right headlight. This creates more space for working and makes it easier to remove the upper intercooler hose.
Now, the diesel lines need to be disconnected from the cylinder head. It is recommended to seal both ends of the lines. The hydraulic fluid reservoir for the power steering can be easily unscrewed and placed aside on the cylinder head without disconnecting the lines. Similarly, the coolant reservoir can be placed to the side in this way.

Next, the serpentine belt and its associated tensioner need to be removed.

Now it gets more difficult! The engine needs to be attached to the clamping device or secured from below. I would even recommend installing two securing points in case one slips.

Hängt der Motor an der Abfangvorrichtung, kann der rechte Halter vom Längsträger und vom Motorhalter abgebaut werden. Danach kann der Motorträger vom Motor abgebaut werden. Das ist nicht ganz einfach. Die oberen Schrauben können nur durch starkes Anheben des Motors abgeschraubt werden, wogegen die untere nur durch absenken des Motors entfernt werden kann. Den Motorhalter aus dem Motorraum zu bekommen ist etwas kniffelig. Often, it helps to lift the engine quite high and rotate the engine mount backward towards the splash guard.

Die Demontage der Riemenscheibe auf der KW und der beiden verbleibenden ZR Abdeckungen ist dagegen ein Kinderspiel. Jetzt liegt der komplette ZR Trieb frei. Am besten bringt man jetzt den Motor und die NW in die Nähe von OT1. Den Motor unbedingt nur in Laufrichtung drehen! OT1 ist recht einfach zu finden. Auf dem KW Zahnrad befindet sich an einem der Schraublöcher für die Riemenscheibe eine Markierung, diese muss mit dem Loch im Ölpumpendeckel fluchten. Die NW muss jetzt mit dem Zeigerfenster nach oben stehen. Steht dieses Fenster nach unten, so ist die KW noch eine Umdrehung weiter zu drehen. Im Idealfall sollte der NW Absteckstift und der KW-Stopp jetzt in die dafür vorgesehenen Löcher passen. IIf that's not the case (which can happen due to ZR elongation), then...First, it is important to secure the NW (needle valve) to the OT1 (outlet tube 1) using the staking pin. The KW (control valve) can be secured later, after the ZR (zinc rod) has been removed. However, the KW should not be rotated too far out of its original position, otherwise the pistons may come into contact with the valves.

Das Entspannen der Riemenspanners ist recht einfach. Dazu gibt es in der Spannrolle ein 8mm Sechskant Loch. Hier kann ein Inbus Schlüssel angesetzt werden und die Spannrolle entgegen dem Uhrzeigersinn gedreht werden. Jetzt ist es möglich den Riemenspanner mit einer Art Gabel (liegt dem HAZET Werkszeugsatz bei) in seiner Ruheposition zu fixieren. Ein ausbauen der Spannrolle ist jetzt möglich. DThe ZR can then be easily removed.

If the tensioner is being replaced (which is recommended), it should now be removed. There is a small idler pulley located on the base of the tensioner, which is included in the timing belt repair kit. This pulley should now be replaced, and the new tensioner reattached to the engine. The three screws on the NW (Northwest) gear are now loosened, and the upper part is rotated fully clockwise until it reaches the end of the elongated holes.
Now, the new belt and tensioner pulley are being installed.
Der Excenter auf der Spannrolle wird jetzt an den Anschlag im Uhrzeigersinn verdreht. Dazu gibt es ein Werkzeug von VW welches es ermöglicht die Excentermutter zu verdrehen und zu fixieren. Ein 28er Schraubenschlüssel tut die gleichen Dienste. Die Arretierung des Spannelementes kann jetzt entfernt werden. Die Einstellung des Spannelementes ist recht einfach. Dazu wird der Excenter der Spannrolle solange gegen den Uhrzeigersinn verdreht, bis sich ein Spaltmaß von 4mm (+/-1mm) zwischen dem Spannelement und dem Hebel an der Spannrolle ergibt. So wird die Spannrolle Fixiert und die drei Schrauben am NW Rad festgeschraubt (25Nm bei kaltem Motor!). Der KW-Stopp und der Absteckstift der NW kann jetzt entfernt werden. The engine will rotate two revolutions in the forward direction.The crankshaft is rotated. When the OT1 position is reached, the crankshaft stop is pushed back into its locking position (do not rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise!), thereby locking the crankshaft. Now, the locating pin in the NW must also fit correctly, and the dimension of the clamping device must also reach 4mm. If either of these requirements is not met, a correction must be made. After that, the check must be repeated.

Now, it's time for the assembly.

Begin by installing the lower and middle timing chain covers. Then, install the pulley and the motor mount. Secure the motor mount to the longitudinal member and the motor mount itself. After that, the retaining device can be removed. To prevent any parts from falling into the timing chain area, install the upper timing chain cover now.
Now, reattach the coolant reservoir and the hydraulic fluid reservoir. You can also reattach the fuel lines. Assembling the intercooler piping and the lower engine cover should be straightforward now. Attach the headlights and bumper, and the ZR engine swap is complete.

The first start after a timing belt replacement is always a bit nerve-wracking, but if everything has been done correctly, nothing should happen, and the engine should start up perfectly.

Adjusting the valve timing as with a VP engine is not necessary, as the fixed crankshaft-camshaft locking mechanism automatically determines the valve timing.
If anyone is concerned that the outer timing wheel is now attached to the lower bracket at a different position, that is not a problem. The measurement of the timing wheel position is taken on the lower part of the timing wheel, which was fixed in the top dead center (TDC) position using the locking pin. As long as the crankshaft stop and the timing wheel locking pin fit into their designated openings, no problems are expected.Sure, here's the translation:

'Additional notes:'

- For motors without an external tensioning element, the hydraulic tensioning device is integrated into the tensioning pulley. These motors were used from around model year 2004 (some even earlier). The belt tension is adjusted using an indicator on the tensioning pulley.

- After the work has been completed, the synchronization angle (offset angle) should be checked (e.g., using a VCDS diagnostic system). The synchronization angle indicates the degree to which the camshaft is rotated relative to the crankshaft. As the engine warms up, the expansion of the cylinder block can cause this value to change. If the value is outside the permissible range, the camshaft sprocket should be loosened, and the offset angle should be adjusted.