Welcher Zusammenhang besteht zw. Klimaanlage und Leistung ? | Posts 32+

moby wrote:

Hello, I drove the car a few meters in the 30 km/h zone in second gear with very little gas. I was just cruising. I also logged the basic settings mode MWB 3. Values are listed in the appendix. For the test run, please go to line 440.

It looks completely normal, for a defective AGR.

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The problem now is: If you give it little gas in 2nd gear, and at around 2000 RPM, it completely cuts off the gas for a moment. But it also happened at higher RPMs, around 3000 RPM, but only in the first two gears. It drives in a really funny way *g*. Especially when you're slowly rolling in 1st gear and then press the gas pedal halfway, and the car suddenly develops so much power that only the wheels spin, and the ESP can't react fast enough, and you feel like it's staying in place with the spinning wheels. I immediately took my foot off the gas, but the car continued to give gas for a little longer, as if the gas pedal was stuck for a moment. So, something is reacting with a delay, and the gas is completely cut off for a short time during acceleration. Did we break something during our work? Although I had this problem in a milder form before.

This sounds like it's mostly due to issues with the throttle pedal sensor signal.
Please run a MWB 80 log while attempting to trigger the error.
The % data in the MWB10 displays the pedal position: If there are any sudden movements or jerks present that you didn't intentionally create with the pedal, this data can at least indicate the direction from which those issues are originating.

Hello, things are slowly getting interesting . Yesterday, just for fun, I turned off the ESP, and what a miracle... The car feels smoother when accelerating, pulls cleanly, and doesn't jerk when releasing the gas (otherwise, it brakes abruptly). Shifting gears is fun again because the car doesn't drop into a 'hole' after releasing the clutch. After releasing the clutch, the car accelerates a little further; otherwise, it was always the opposite... it was immediately braked. The steering feels much lighter again, and you can take curves nicely again without being pushed outwards. What's even more interesting is that it stays like this even when you turn the ESP back on... but only for how long again... probably a few weeks, as always.

Here's another question about the accelerator pedal. My colleague has a much stiffer accelerator pedal than I do. I'm wondering what's correct here... he once had a faulty accelerator pedal sensor, so maybe something was assembled incorrectly on his car?

Can a stuck rear brake affect ESP sensors? Mine gets stuck whenever I drive the car in wet conditions, and then makes a loud noise the next day when I start it again. Only once were both ESP sensors registered as errors in the error memory, but it's only a sporadic issue.

cu moby

moby wrote:

Yesterday, just for fun, I turned off the ESP, and what a miracle... The car feels smoother when accelerating, pulls cleanly, and doesn't jerk when releasing the gas (otherwise, it brakes abruptly). Shifting gears is fun again because the car doesn't dip into a "hole" after releasing the clutch. . .

Tsts... and once again, confirmation for my decision to cancel the ESP option on the Polo.

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Another question about the accelerator pedal. My colleague has a much stiffer accelerator pedal than I do. I'm wondering what's correct here...he once had a defective accelerator pedal switch...maybe something was assembled incorrectly on his?

As long as nothing is (audibly) rubbing on his, it's probably supposed to be like that...maybe they installed an automatic pedal actuator for him?

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Can a stuck rear brake have an effect on ESP sensors?

Mine gets stuck whenever I've driven the car in wet conditions, and then when I drive it again the next day, there's a loud bang. } This is the separation of the rotors from under the rusted brake pads. It's not dramatic (and probably doesn't matter to the ESP), as long as the wheel hub doesn't get very hot over short distances without heavy braking.

Hi, I just did another visual inspection a little while ago and fiddled around with the EGR valve mechanism while the engine was off. While pressing down on the EGR valve, I heard air escaping near the solenoid valve. It sounds exactly like air leaking from a hose. Is that really normal? The engine hadn't been started for several hours before that.

cu moby

moby wrote:

with the engine off . . . I always heard it when pressing down on the EGR valve . . .

When the engine is off, the "EGR valve" (the closing cone in the intake manifold!) is already all the way down. Pressing it further down -> the EGR unit breaks off .

Did you mean the external release lever?

with the engine off... I always heard it when pressing down on the EGR valve... When the engine is off, the 'EGR valve' (the closing cone in the intake manifold!) is already fully down. Pressing it further down -> the EGR unit breaks off .

Did you mean the external release lever?

Yes, where the vacuum hose leads to...

cu moby

Hello, I wanted to ask again if the hissing sound is normal when operating the lever on the EGR valve.

cu moby

moby wrote:

Hello, I wanted to ask again if the hissing sound is normal when operating the lever on the EGR valve.

I haven't noticed anything like that before. However, my Polo has an all-in-one solenoid valve block, and the ALH with individual valves is still out late tonight...

Hello, what do you mean by 'all-in-one'? You can see my solenoid valve in the attachment. Is it the same one that's used in the Polo?

So, this valve is closed everywhere... regardless of its position?

Regarding ESP. When I bought the car, the ESP warning light would occasionally illuminate, and a second, undocumented light would appear below the ESP light. They then replaced the instrument cluster, and since then, the ESP has been activating intermittently or reacting with a 1-2 second delay. The Acoustic Parking System is also behaving strangely. When I reverse into a parking space, it only beeps when I'm very close, and then it beeps rapidly. It also beeps more frequently when I release the brake pedal without moving. This problem wasn't present from the beginning. Once, the ESP steering angle sensor was misaligned (not at 0), which is supposed to ensure that the ESP activates sooner or later. It all seems like a control unit might be defective to me...

cu moby

moby wrote:

Hello, what do you mean by "all-in-one"? In the attachment, you can see my solenoid valve. Is it the same as the one in the Polo?

No. I wrote "magnet valve block = 1 large block with approximately 8 hose connections and 6 electrical connections."

'Hi, my colleague's car also releases air when the lever is activated, so it's probably normal. However, I'm quite surprised that the car isn't being braked with the ESP turned off... Can anyone comment on what the possible reasons for this might be? Could an ESP sensor be sending a false signal to the control unit? Could a dragging brake, for example, make the car unstable and lead to a permanent reduction in engine power? During the dyno tests, I once had a very high parasitic drag, but the second time it was completely normal. Why would the parasitic drag change so drastically within 6 months? During my own power test, I noticed that my car had a high parasitic drag compared to other ASZ engines. Is the solution likely to be mechanical or electronic (e.g., a faulty control unit)?

Thank you for your help .

cu moby

moby wrote:

Why should a parasitic loss change so significantly within 6 months? During my own performance test, I noticed that my vehicle had a higher parasitic loss compared to other ASZ engines. Is the solution to be found mechanically, or electronically (e.g., a faulty control unit)?

Parasitic loss converts kinetic energy into heat. Therefore, mechanical causes can generally be identified by observing heat sources. In the case of ESP, it can only be hot brakes/rims (even with a fuel-efficient driving style that involves a lot of coasting instead of braking), because there are no other ways for it to intervene.
As far as I know, the electronics of an (automatic shift) auxiliary transmission (ASZ) do not have the capability to generate an abnormally high amount of engine braking force.
However, it's important to always compare vehicles with the same gear ratios and tire sizes, because a shorter gear ratio combined with very wide tires can sometimes give the impression of a constantly slightly engaged handbrake, compared to a longer gear ratio with narrow, fuel-efficient tires.

Hello, the other two Audi A3 models with the same ASZ engine have a maximum towing capacity of 30-35 kg, while mine has a capacity of 50 kg. We all have the 225/45 R17 tires. I'm wondering why the other two have a lower towing capacity...

I'm currently driving without ESP, and it feels wonderful. Especially because the car doesn't sound as strained anymore, as if it's still pulling a trailer. } In particular, accelerating from 70 in 4th gear results in a clearly faster and smoother acceleration/power delivery.

cu moby