AXD PD Dichtsatz / Anlassdrehzahl kalt | Posts 32+

Hey Engal!

engl wrote:

I already know how to properly test a battery; ...

...and I seriously doubt that.

A battery with a resting voltage of 12.6V that drops to 11.8V under light load is definitely defective (sulfated).
Look through the technical article, but I still think we need a new one.

Best regards from Munich!

It would be interesting to see how many volts are left at the start attempt and how much of that actually reaches the starter.

When starting, there is almost 9V at the battery terminals.

Now, there are 2 cases:


sometimes

1. He immediately starts after about 1 second; you need to give it some gas; then it runs immediately smoothly.

2. If it doesn't start, even after making a few coughing sounds after 1 second; then you have to try again for about 20 seconds; if I then try to start it while it's already starting Connecting batteries in parallel increases the voltage significantly; however, it doesn't necessarily make the starting process faster (it actually makes it slower).


He never smokes.

Basically, I would initially suspect a slightly weak battery as the cause of the low RPM. However, he should then definitely add the 2nd one. Does the battery start immediately?

Quote:

2. if he doesn't start, even though he makes some coughing sounds after 1 second; then you have to try again for about 20 seconds; and if I start the engine again Connecting batteries in parallel increases the voltage significantly; however, it doesn't necessarily make the starting process faster (it actually makes it slower).

Then the primary cause is air in the system.

You could try to adjust the PDs by a few degrees. In a situation where a BLB (Bladder Leakage) ZK (Zystektomie) was performed as an emergency measure, I have had success using it as a temporary solution.

The battery is still running low...............

After a period of relative calm and when it had started up reasonably well, I checked the oil level again after some time.
The oil level has increased by approximately 7 mm at around 4000 km.

Now, I want to leave in 3 days (it should be around 3000km).
I intended to seal the PDEs again later, as I believe that they were not done carefully.

If I simply drive: will the diesel evaporate again over longer distances if the engine is warm? At a boiling point of 180 °C or higher, it is likely to be less probable, or?

2. Possibility: Change the oil first, and then just drive.

Or should I instead remove the PD - elements and install new seals; with the risk that something might not work and I won't be able to finish the box until tomorrow?

Quote:

2. Possibility: Change the oil first, and then just drive. Or should I instead remove the PD elements and install new seals; with the risk that something might not work and I won't be able to finish the box until tomorrow?

What do you want to hear? From a technical perspective ---> Fix the defect, what else?

Personally, I would change the oil, adjust the PDs slightly, and go on vacation.

2. Possibility: Change the oil first, and then just drive.

Or should I instead remove the PD elements and install new seals; with the risk that something might not work and I won't be able to finish the box until tomorrow?

What do you want to hear? From a technical perspective ---> Fix the defect, what else?

Personally, I would change the oil, adjust the PDs slightly, and go on vacation.

Good idea, but:


What exactly do you mean by 're-tighten the PDs'? The screws from the holding wedge? 'Does that also mean the entire extension needs to be removed?'

According to my understanding, the main cost arises until the ZK cover is removed, or? The seals would then be relatively quickly replaced.

Quote:

What exactly do you mean by "PDs"?

Oops, I just realized that there are still PDs with retaining clips and a mounting screw - don't re-tighten , sorry.

What exactly do you mean by 'adjusting the PDs'?

Oops, I just realized that there are also PDs with retaining clips and a mounting screw - do not tighten , sorry.


Okay, at the BKD, I would have known what you meant!

Thank you!


Okay, change the oil and go! The seals will also be there later.

What happens if I don't have 50601 oil and instead pour in something else?

Hi,

no one can answer that, because no one knows what you're putting in. There could be anything from nothing to immediate engine failure.

My user manual states that in emergency situations, up to half a liter of other oil (with the specified specifications) can be added.

Since you want to completely change the oil, I would recommend getting the right one. Is cheaper than the whole engine.

Best regards,

Jan