Leistungprobleme 1Z | Posts 16+

I'm a bit clueless about this; could you briefly explain how it works?

The search function is your friend .

I am unable to access external websites or specific files online, including the URL you provided. Therefore, I cannot translate the text from the German link into English.

Best regards, Rudi.

Yeah, yeah, RTFM (Read The Fine Manual), sorry, I got it now.

I'm still having another problem; on the way home today, the engine power was almost completely gone. Additionally, the preheating light started flashing. I then read the error memory and received the following error message.
00542- Needle lift sensor (G80)
05-00- Input open.

If I understand correctly, then the needle lift sensor is defective?
Does that mean I need to replace the fuel injector on cylinder number 3?
Can I replace them individually, or do I have to replace all of them?
How do I get the nozzles out? I unscrewed the nut from this tube, then removed the bracket above the nozzle, and now I want to unscrew the nozzle itself. The manual says you should just be able to pull them out. However, I can't seem to either pull or screw them out. I have no idea how to do it.
Just a question: Could it be that the nozzle was also the cause of the previous performance loss? And is it now completely broken?
That would also explain why he was so loud (and is still very loud now).

Best regards,
cksIT

If it says 'needle lift actuator,' then it should be that. Can the error code be cleared and does it not reappear? If so, it might have been a false reading or a sporadic error.

All the injectors are plugged in and held in place by clips. There's no way to unscrew them. You can slightly move the nozzles back and forth with a suitable wrench. If that doesn't help, loosen the clips slightly, start the engine, and give it some gas. If you're lucky, this will dislodge the nozzle, allowing you to remove it after loosening the clip.

No, the performance issue is persistent, so the error is still present. If I clear it, it immediately reappears.

Okay, I'll try that with the nozzle.

I tried that, but no luck. The part is stuck tight. Is there any other way to get the nozzle out?
If the nozzle were still intact but the connector was broken, would the cylinder still run, or not? Apparently, it's not running on all four cylinders, at least not properly.

cksIT wrote:

If the nozzle were still intact, but the connector was broken, would the cylinder still run, or not? It's said that it's not running on all 4 cylinders, at least not properly.

The "hydraulic part" of the NHG (presumably a piece of equipment) functions in the same way as the other nozzles. Therefore, even with electrical faults within the NHG circuit, the engine will still run – albeit with reduced power.

I think the problem has been resolved now. I still have parts from the wrecked engine.
"(The previous owner said he didn't need to tighten the oil drain plug and then drove it onto the highway); well, I thought it was great, I got the car for a steal and only had to replace one engine."
"It had the correct nozzle. It was the only one that survived. In any case, it's running much better now. It accelerates from 120 to 140 almost as well as it used to accelerate from 100 to 120."

Finally, the car is driving the way it's supposed to.
Anyway, I now know that the engine is otherwise well-adjusted.
I definitely gained some more experience this time.
I'm writing again to check if the test with the DZR was successful.

Okay, so I now have a chip installed that's supposed to give me 115 horsepower. It definitely runs much better now.
Okay, I stopped and checked, and it took about 9 seconds to go from 50 to 100 km/h. Considering that I have 215 tires, is that actually a decent acceleration time?
I can't easily verify the calculations because I don't have the torque chart.
Now, just check how much he's drinking .