Belt Replacement: How-To Guide & Tips

I'm planning to take my Passat to the workshop soon. Since I have the option of using the training workshop at DC, it should be relatively inexpensive (hopefully). I've already added the timing belt with tensioners to the list, as well as all the filters. Unfortunately, I don't know what's included in the service plan for a major inspection. Are there any other things I absolutely need to have done, such as the ribbed belt and the serpentine belt for the air conditioning (since they have to be removed anyway when changing the timing belt)?
Okay, one more thing, the Passat makes this rumbling (roaring) noise when taking left turns. At first, I thought it was a piece of metal that had come loose from the exhaust and was pressing against the shield, but that's gone now, and it's still rumbling. I suspect it might be a wheel bearing, but I'm not sure if it's the front or rear one, or if something else could be the cause.
Well, this certainly doesn't seem like a TDI issue. If this is the wrong forum for this, please let me know where else I can go.
THX papatom

Hi Papatom,

You are absolutely right...

...but there's a section called "Chassis, Body, and Interior" where that topic belongs.

Check out /viewtopic.php?t=789, that should address your problem.

Okay, so the issue with the wheel bearing is put on hold for now. I'll check it as described and get back to you if necessary.
The topic of belts, etc., is still open .

Just replace the timing belt, or should I also replace the ribbed belt and the V-belt for the air conditioning (they have to be removed anyway when changing the timing belt?).

So, on my 35i 1Z, when the timing belt was changed, the pulleys and the serpentine belts were also replaced at the same time. This was done by VW themselves...
However, this is already the second timing belt replacement (the first one was at 180,000 km), and unfortunately, I don't have air conditioning.

Hello,

My car's maintenance schedule indicates that the timing belt needs to be replaced next month. I'm currently considering whether to also have the serpentine belt (also known as a ribbed belt) replaced at the same time. Can anyone tell me approximately how much those two belts cost?
Should the valve cover gasket also be replaced?

Regards,

Tobias.

"In my opinion, the original V-ribbed belts are too expensive, costing between 50 and 100 euros."
Depending on the size, they don't cost more than 30 euros as accessories.

Okay, for my 1Z, the ribbed belt costs €15 and the V-belt costs €5. According to my manual, replacing the belts is not a mandatory service. And the ribbed belt should last the entire life of the car. So, I only replaced the V-belt (mainly because it was squeaking).

hello

And the ribbed belt should last a car's entire lifetime. So, in my case, I only replaced the serpentine belt. (Mainly because it was squeaking)[/quote]

Unfortunately, he rarely does that.
Rib belts also become hard and brittle.
If they develop cracks on the inner side, near the ribs, they are worn out and should be replaced before they tear and the AC/DC unit needs to be serviced!
greetings

Mileage: 110,000 km, not tuned

Wow, not bad.

Best regards, WarLord.

Hello,

Thank you for your opinions. I will take a closer look at the straps (including the insides).

What are your thoughts on replacing the valve cover gasket?

Regards,

Tobias.

Quote:

What do you think about replacing the valve cover gasket?

If you don't want to preserve your engine with oil...
Yes, exchange them. Mine didn't seal properly again.

greetings
dieter

Hello,

Thank you for your advice. I took a closer look at the two belts, and they actually seem to be in quite good condition (including the inside). Well, I then discussed it with the mechanic, and since they have to be removed anyway, we decided to replace them with new ones. Today I picked up the car, and what did I find on the ribbed belt: a hand-applied direction of rotation marking...


Regards,

Tobias.

Regarding valve cover gaskets:

After opening, it wouldn't seal properly again, and that thing is quite expensive. So, I took a closer look at the whole thing.

It's because the gasket compresses over time, but the valve cover can't be pressed too tightly onto the head due to the spacer sleeves. The solution: I placed a large, thick washer underneath to apply additional pressure to the rubber gaskets, bypassing the sleeves. It sealed again right away.
It doesn't cost anything, and if it doesn't work, you can always buy a new seal.
Cleanliness of the sealing surfaces and the gasket must always be ensured!