AGR Valve: Failure Rate After 200,000 km

Hello everyone,

I'm starting to feel bad because I always only ask questions and don't contribute anything worthwhile .
Even today, I am relying on your experience.
But that's just a side note.

Until recently, a mysterious foreign object had been blocking the vacuum hose leading to my EGR valve. Furthermore, the hose between the foreign object and the valve was leaking.

Having read here that old EGR valves may sometimes not seal properly (which, in my interpretation, means that exhaust gases always leak into the intake manifold, regardless of load and engine speed), I decided to do some tinkering. The dealership had already told me that the valve was faulty.
I cut apart the hard drive and drive carrier from a computer case (I hope it's steel, but I can't completely rule out aluminum based on how it feels when I drill, saw, and bend it), and I fitted it behind the vacuum sensor.
Okay, here it comes.
As disorganized as I am, I realized that I only had one poem available to me, the one that served as a template. The friendly person had already mentioned it to .
I've now installed the exhaust manifold.
My concern: Is valuable, compressed intake air now leaking out between the can and the metal? How much could be lost?
The tightening torque of the Allen screws is probably not the cause of the problem.
Ideally, the valve is tight and nothing passes through it. Or is a tight valve still leaky enough to release enough air to promote soot formation ?
I don't have the time to buy a new gasket right now, should I just keep driving like this? (The car seems to be running normally.) However, as someone prone to worrying about diesels, I tend to suspect it's producing some slight soot (visible as a haze in the headlights of the car behind me, and now even without the 10c setting activated).

Yes, thank you very much, and goodbye.

Best regards,

In the headlight glare of the car behind you, you always see something hazy.

It's the same for me!

However, I wouldn't completely trust the valve, and I would rather replace the seal on both sides.

m;

'I also installed a metal plate this weekend. I used a piece of aluminum (or something similar) from an old computer case. Let's see how long it lasts. I only had one gasket, which I placed between the valve and the plate. After about 300 km, there's no visible soot on the outside, so it seems to be sealing well...'

Now that we're back to this topic, I would still like to know if a 'relatively new' (5,000 km) EGR valve will remain sealed (and stay that way) if you just replace the hose.

andre wrote:

Since we're already on the topic, I would still like to know if a "relatively new" (5,000 km) EGR valve will be tight (and remain tight) if you only replace the hose.

I would say: yes.

If you really want to know:
verschandeln the AGR (Air Gap Recirculation) system thoroughly, block the vacuum, and drive, drive, drive, drive...
Occasionally, detach the suction hose and take a look inside. As long as it's still clean, the valve is sealed .

Well, I also thought my EGR valve was still working properly, so about half a year ago, I disconnected the hose and cleaned the T-piece after the valve.
When I checked my charging system this weekend, I learned something different! It was full of soot again, and when I connected to the EGR, there was even dry soot!
So, it's a 2-hole gasket that goes in between.

Conclusion: My old 1Z now revs noticeably above 2000 RPM.
Furthermore, it appears that the soot emissions have decreased under full load.