Timing Belt Replacement: Bolts Too?

Hi,

Okay, I've got everything ready for the timing belt replacement, but now I have a "matter of principle" to deal with:

Should I replace the tensioner pulley bolt as well?

I've got it installed there. If it breaks when I turn it, I'm in trouble. But if it stays in place and breaks after 5000 km, I'm also in trouble.
VW says they are always reinventing it.

What torque in Nm should I use when tightening it into the block, if the nut on the semi-automatic roller is tightened to 20 Nm?

m;

It's a 1Z engine with a "large engine code (greater than 278... or something)," so it's similar to the AHU engine - if anyone is interested.

Sure, which text would you like me to translate?
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That's exactly the role.

But the question refers to the bolt that holds them in the engine.

m;

Hi Martin,

I would advise you to leave the tensioner pulley bolt alone.

According to my multiple inquiries to VW before the timing belt replacement in 2001, it was not supposed to be replaced and was supposedly not causing any problems.

Do you know anything about wanting to replace the bolt?

I understand that I can't rely on the information from 'Freundliche' (likely a customer service or support source), because I was told by one person that the tension and idler pulleys should only be replaced on the second timing belt change, while another person said otherwise.

Best regards, Georg.

I told the service master, when I was there about the warranty for the flexible pipe, that I still needed to do the timing belt and that I wanted to try doing it myself (they know that I take everything apart ).

He then said that they should replace the bolt, because it would be a shame if an engine failed because a 4-euro bolt wasn't replaced and then broke.

I now have the bolt, so I'm free to decide whether to replace it or not - the 4 euros isn't a problem for me.

I am concerned that only considering the two risks (bolt failure during operation versus bolt tearing during removal) against each other is not sufficient.

m;

For me, the risk of breaking a bolt when trying to remove it or damaging the threads in the block is significantly higher.

Why should the bolt break?

If there are no material defects or material fatigue, and you don't overtighten the tensioner, nothing will break.

Therefore, don't simply place the tensioner pulley on the marking; first, check if there is still enough tension reserve (manually turn the crankshaft several rotations). In the worst case, the timing belt might be slightly shorter, and the tensioner pulley is at the end of its adjustment range and may no longer be able to compensate for the dynamics and potentially a slightly warped pulley. In that case, you will really have the problem that a bolt on the tensioner or idler pulley will shear.

Best regards, Georg.

Hello.

Is this part "N 014 408 3" an M8x62lg?
Removing a broken stud with a stud extractor isn't ideal, but it's not strictly necessary. If you notice that the stud is turning while trying to remove it, that's not a major problem. You can simply file a flat surface, drill a hole in the center, and insert a Helicoil insert. However, I wouldn't rely on that method, as the combination of aluminum and steel always carries a risk. Furthermore, the head is full of cavities (water channels), and there's a chance of something going wrong while drilling.

Best regards, Robert.

I work at a VW-Audi authorized service center, and we never replace this bolt!

So far, I haven't encountered any cases where the bolt has failed. It's probably extremely rare for it to break or shear off!

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Micha"

Thanks, Micha.

that's quite a statement

So, I should just leave him in there.

For the record, here's the bolt I'm referring to:

On the left, the tensioner is attached, and on the right, the motor .

I would make the decision very simply. If the bolt comes out using the lock nut method, then definitely replace it.

If you determine that the object is securely in place, leave it there.

Greetings.

Haha :/

That's not so simple.

We broke all the "high-strength" screws from Kruemmer that attach to the turbo on every T3 we had.

You just keep tightening, and eventually, something moves... that's the plastic phase before the break .

And if I've already tightened the bolt, then it *must* come out.

So, it's either "let them stay inside" or "definitely take them outside."

m;

Sure, here's the translation:

"Again:"

Let him in! Nothing will happen! (like it's suggestive )

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Micha"

Okay,

ZR is in, I left the bolt alone, and I'm now really sick .

The hall was supposedly "heated," but it wasn't as warm as I thought it would be.

Besides this one, there haven't been any major problems.

- The mother was stuck on the camshaft, completely idiotic.
- The upper screw of the lower timing cover fell behind the alternator (and took approximately 30 minutes to retrieve).
- VW gave me the wrong valve cover gasket (so I have to go back and have it replaced).
- Es gibt zwei Markierungen auf der Schwungschiebe 4. Zyl OT und 1. Zyl OT.
However, they can be identified by the camshafts (which should have the first one at the top), and the rulers don't fit.

Overall, I managed to complete the task within the estimated 4 hours.

The injection start time is set to 45/110 (value 2/9 in the default settings) and should be adjusted to the latest possible setting.

Unfortunately, I now have a core body temperature of 38.6 degrees Celsius.

For the next 90,000 km.

m;