Vaginal Discharge: Causes & Treatment

HI.

What is that stuff inside the ZK (when you unscrew the oil cap)?
It's an Opel Corsa B with the engine code X14SZ.

The substance is gel-like and sticks to vertical and horizontal surfaces.

My first thought was "emulsion," although I don't know if and for how long the car stood with this oil fill before being sold – it could also be very old condensation.

Condensation, which often occurs during frequent city driving and short trips.

Okay, condensation.

That fits perfectly because this box is really only for city dwellers.

How do I get rid of the drool?
How bad is that?

(Since my diesel cars have always been driven on paved roads, I'm not familiar with that.)

m;

Quote:

How do I get the drool out?

Change the oil and then, afterwards, really step on the gas.

Remove the cover, use brake cleaner and a cloth - otherwise, follow Rainer's recommendations.
- Occasionally swap cars with my wife.
- It should be better even with GM 0 oil.
-Cover half of the cooler in the city and monitor the temperature?
- Check/replace thermostat.


Okay, I understand!
The engine is running poorly because there's no pre-heating plate, which means no warm air is entering the engine - resulting in a longer warm-up period and condensation.

The metal sheet has only been installed for about 3 days... can the grime accumulate that quickly?

Sheet metal will also be used again, because I only need to drill out ONE screw .

m;

No, I don't think so.
But does the preheating switchover function properly?
Furthermore, there are many scooter drivers with this unsightly thing attached to their oil filler cap.

Hello,

My girlfriend's Ford Fiesta also has this problem, where this sludge quickly accumulates in the crankcase ventilation/separator, which also serves as the oil filler cap.

It's been driven exclusively in the city since then. Five years ago, it used to be driven 400 km on the highway every weekend to visit home, and it never had any problems.

I've already covered half of the radiator, but it doesn't help, it just provides cozy warmth in the winter!

Drain the oil separator every other time you refuel. Clean any sludge from the cylinder head cover as much as possible, and reduce the oil change interval to every six months using the suction method. Replace the oil filter every other oil change.

Then the cheapest acceptable oil is used, and that's been happening for 5 years now!

Best regards,
Ferdi

A friend of mine has the same problem with his A3 1.6. I don't know the exact model code. In his case, the buildup is caused by the component's position. The crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is located directly under the oil filler cap, leading into the intake manifold area before the throttle body. In his car, the non-return valve is defective, so moisture accumulates there from time to time. In my opinion, it's not a major issue in his case. His A3 has already exceeded 400,000 km with that engine, and the only noticeable issue is the constantly increasing oil consumption.

Okay.

The Corsa is currently driving around the city with 15W-40 oil.
Should I add "something better" when I change the water?

Especially considering the constant short-distance travel?

m;

Hello,

Make sure to change the oil and filter and use good quality oil.

I would also start by doing an engine flush (like Liqui Moly or something similar).

The best option would be Mobil 1 0W-40, while a good and affordable alternative is Praktiker High Star 5W-40 (5 liters for approximately 12€). However, please avoid using 15W-40 oil these days.

Hi.
I hope I can now, as a new employee, quickly find a comfortable and easy job.

Why is the oil change so important? Surely the viscosity isn't optimal anymore. But shouldn't the water also be able to "boil" out?

After discovering this thread, I initially checked my oil cap. After all, I've mostly been driving around the city lately, and sometimes I only drive 10 kilometers at a time.

I also had some emulsion on the cap. Unfortunately, my oil cap isn't on the SK (presumably a specific model or part), I have a separate filler spout that's also quite long.

After work today, I went out on the track. First, I drove through the usual city traffic, then I drove at a speed of about 150 km/h. That was about 80 kilometers. Afterwards, the lid was clean again.

HDi-Fahrer wrote:

... Why is the oil change so important? Certainly, the viscosity is no longer optimal now. But shouldn't the water also be able to "boil" out like that?

... and what do you do with the rest?
Engine wear particles, soot (which can also come from a DPF system), and other foreign substances that don't belong in fresh oil and gradually get "washed" into it during operation.

The water should largely evaporate on its own from the oil (provided the vehicle isn't used exclusively for short trips).

Okay, so I've always had a huge amount of that gunk (also a lot of short trips) in our VW bus (T4, 2.5L gasoline engine), and it hasn't caused any problems at all (for almost 10 years).
It becomes less frequent after longer highway drives.
I change the oil regularly (once a year) and use SAE 10W40, which is a standard, inexpensive, semi-synthetic oil. Of course, the filter is always replaced at the same time.
I don't think you should worry too much about it. Short trips aren't good for every engine, but I think it's excessive to halve the oil change intervals just because of a little bit of emulsion on the cap.

A regular oil change is normal, of course. I assumed that the oil change was specifically related to the sludge.

HDi-Fahrer wrote:

... I assumed that the oil change was specifically related to the

.

No, that has the least to do with it...