Audi TDI AEL: Faulty Fuel Injection Pump?

Hello.
In my workshop, they suspect that the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) might be defective (still needs to be checked). Now, here's my question in advance. At VAG (Volkswagen Group), a replacement ESP unit costs about €1200. Would it be worthwhile to take it to a Bosch service center for repair (as was the case in the past)? Is it likely to be worth it? Does anyone have any experience with this?
The exact error description will be provided in the coming days.

Greetings and thank you.

In my opinion, it's always worth it to repair a VP37 yourself.
VP37 pumps are actually quite simple in their design, and often it's just a minor issue that's causing the problem.

In my opinion, it is always worth it to repair a VP37 yourself.
VP37 pumps are actually quite simple in their construction, and often it's just a minor issue that the pump is missing.

Do you mean Bosch or doing it yourself at home? I'm not completely unskilled, but I've never disassembled an injection pump before. However, if it's usually a simple task, the technicians at Bosch can probably do it for a reasonable price.

Hopefully, I'll know more this afternoon.
greetings

Well, "cheap" is a relative term. Just the inspection on the Bosch testing stand already costs over 200 euros.
And even then, you don't have the guarantee that they will find the error.
Can you tell me about the symptoms and why it's no longer working?

Hello.
die ESP scheint doch nicht defekt Dafür springt er Morgens und wenn er lange steht schlecht an (Auch bei diesem Wetter !!). Der Typ in der Werkstatt meinte das meine Batterie am 'Ende' wäre. Hmmm...
When it finally started, it sputtered a bit at first. The fuel injection should be set to start early (I told the mechanics). Otherwise, it runs well.
greetings

Hey Honk,

Could it be that the diesel line is filled with air? Poor cold starts, especially after the engine has been sitting for a while, can indicate this. If that's not the problem, what about the injectors? It's not that they're worn out, because thick droplets or even streams don't burn well; they should produce a fine mist. At the same time, it makes sense to test the compression, because the engine might not be able to reach the ignition temperature if the compression is too low. If everything else seems normal, it's probably best to have the ESP (Electronic System Pump) checked on a dynamometer. For example, if the distributor piston has too much leakage, it won't be able to accumulate the correct amount of fuel for starting, which would also result in poor cold starts. The same phenomenon can occur if the central sealing screw, which leads to the inside of the pump, becomes leaky, but this usually only happens if someone opens it.

It's clear that the long organ cable is drawing power from the battery, but I doubt that's the cause of your starting problems. However, it gives me the idea that before you consider expensive repairs like "removing the pump," you should check all the contacts to make sure there's no corrosion that could be causing incorrect or no readings.

Smoky greetings.
Peter.