The Death of My Turbocharger - Toilet?

Hello everyone,
Now it's happened to me too. The turbocharger performed flawlessly!
Car: T3, Engine: AFN, Chip tuning and turbo boost increase to approximately 1.1 bar.

As previously reported, the loader suddenly changed its sound, and at higher speeds, it sounded like an electric motor. However, I didn't think it was anything major, as the boost pressure was still building up normally.

That same evening, I wanted to take a look and see if everything was alright, so I pulled out the fresh air intake pipe from the loader and used my finger to feel the blades. While doing this, I noticed that a shovel seemed to have broken, but there was no noticeable wave interference.

In addition, I disassembled the pipe leading to the heat accumulator (LLK) and the LLK itself, and flushed them with water. I didn't find any debris or fragments inside. Perhaps a piece of the shovel is still stuck somewhere in the landfill.

What I had to simultaneously realize was that my water cooling system had dried up because of a container that was completely eaten away by rust .
After I had refilled the water tank, I was able to drive around the area for about 3 more weeks without any further problems. Except for one day, when he finally started after work, but only ran on 3 cylinders (at least that's what it sounded like), and smoked as if my neighbor was burning wet wood.

I carefully drove home, and the smoke was gone after just a few kilometers. The next day, everything was completely normal. No smoke and it started right up immediately.
Just to be on the safe side, I bought a used loader from the online marketplace.

Then, one morning, it finally happened!
Initially, there were significant fluctuations in the turbocharger boost pressure, then smoke started billowing, making it impossible to see the driver behind me (who promptly overtook me with his horn), and a little later, the oil pressure warning light came on. The engine was immediately switched off, and the vehicle rolled into a dirt road.

What happened?
Based on the amount of oil that leaked out of the oil pan, it pushed about 4 liters of oil from the engine into the compressor and exhaust system in that short amount of time. Apparently, the majority of the substance went directly into the exhaust, and the rest was burned by the engine.
The turbine blade now has excessive clearance, and all the compressor blades are bent at the edges.
Fortunately, my engine didn't rev uncontrollably, and no parts came loose from the turbocharger.

Why did that happen?
I believe the starting point was the failure of one of the compressor blades, which initially went unnoticed.
The problem was an imbalance in the loader. After my water pump also stopped providing any cooling, the wear on the shaft seal in the charger was certainly accelerated.

Images will follow shortly!

My questions now:

1. Can I flush the LLK circuit (which is full of oil sludge), or do I really need to replace the LLK as described on a motor repair website?
2. Should I also open up the engine and check the valves and pistons for foreign objects? (The engine is still running smoothly and normally.)

Thank you.
Greetings.
Frebert.

Hello,

1.) is sensible and almost always necessary.
2.) First, perform a compression test; if it's okay, you're lucky.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello everyone,

Short update...

I've now had the used replacement loader installed from eBay for 5 days.
I haven't re-examined the LLK (likely referring to a specific type of material) or broken it down into chips or loader parts, because I didn't find any traces in the loader either. The blades on the compactor were bent.

The van was emitting a very blue, smoky exhaust for about 3 days (likely due to the remaining oil in the silencer and the Oxikat additive) when it was warming up.
It eventually came to an end after I drove a few kilometers at full speed on the A99 highway one weekend.

Since then, everything has been perfect... so it seems like good luck in a bad situation.

Greetings.
Frebert.

After having such an operation, going full throttle across the track is quite...

If the impeller blades were bent, then either there must have been contact with the housing, which would certainly also damage the blades, or something must have passed "through" the compressor. Therefore, something should be in the LLK.

...I don't really understand this whole "full speed instead of cleaning" thing.

I understand "Vollgas" as follows:

The part had been working fine so far, so he dared to use it at full power (which you sometimes do).
And even that was survived by the engine/turbo.

m;

As I said, I won't be driving at full speed on the highway right away, but rather after a few days. I also listened carefully and didn't just blindly follow instructions...

Furthermore, the full-throttle action should not be intended to clear the charge air circuit of debris , but rather to put an end to this oil smoke!

Now I'm at least certain that the new loader is leak-proof and that oil isn't going anywhere it shouldn't.

Here are finally some pictures of the wrecked loader...

As you can see, the shovels are quite bent, and one is completely broken off, which I suspect is the cause of the damage. I don't know when or why the shovel broke, and consequently, why the balance was completely off.
You can also imagine how the game was played by looking at the position of the shovels relative to the casing ... it must have wobbled quite a bit.

Greetings.
Frebert.

Okay, if I were in your situation, I would have expanded the cooling system again and cleaned it thoroughly until everything was clean.
I once cleaned one while it was still installed, but I later took it out and was really shocked by how much more stuff came out!
And just because you've driven it hard doesn't mean that something isn't still stuck somewhere in the engine and will eventually come loose over time.

I would have the same concerns, and the chance that the shard simply ignited on its own is really small. So, let's verschandeln the entire charge air cooler system again.

Quote:

I once cleaned one while it was still installed, but I later took it out and was really shocked by what else came out!

How did you approach that?
When I disassembled the LLK (likely referring to a specific piece of equipment), I flooded it with water, shook it, and tapped on it forcefully, hoping something would fall out... but unfortunately, nothing did.

Quote:

I would have the same concerns, and the chance that the shard simply ignited on its own is really small. So, it's better to verschandeln the entire charge air cooler system again.

I have concerns too, but what should I do if nothing comes out of the LLK (lymphatic lymphokine)? Should I open it?
I would be very grateful if someone could give me a good tip on how to ensure that nothing from the turbocharger is stuck in the coolant system. I don't necessarily want to wreck my AFN .

Like in the toilet during a big mess, flushing, flushing, flushing .
It's best to use a cleaning agent and plenty of water.
I used to use cold cleaning agents and rinsed the part several times.
But a lot of water should be enough, and if nothing else comes out after that, it will probably be 99% clean.

It is possible to look inside the LLK (likely referring to a specific piece of equipment or structure) using an endoscope.
Reverse the flow with a 90-degree bend and use a strong garden hose to rinse, but avoid high-pressure cleaners, as the fins can bend.

I might be having a logical fallacy. But you don't really dissolve much with water, do you?

There is always oil mist present in the charge air system, and in cases of turbocharger damage, there is usually more than less. The oil accumulates along the walls of the LLK (likely referring to a specific piece of equipment) and the pipes.
The oily residue provides an excellent surface for wood shavings to adhere to.

It's probably not possible to dissolve these shavings with water. A brake cleaner would probably be more suitable for the pipes, and a solvent for the LLK (likely referring to a specific type of lubricant or adhesive).

voodoo wrote:

It is probably not possible to dissolve these shavings with water. A more suitable option would be brake cleaner for the pipes and a solvent for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

Yes, I would do it the same way: for example, flood the ATF with a liter of diesel in reverse, seal the openings, shake well, and drain the diesel from the air intake.

Repeat this process frequently (using fresh diesel!) until no more shavings come out.

After that, you can filter the diesel and pour it back into the tank.


It would only be bad if the plastic air ducts of the LLK were corroded by the diesel .

@Ulf: I doubt that the diesel fuel is eating the plastic; the oil mist is probably just as harmful to the plastic.

I had the same idea, maybe we should even consider using lukewarm diesel? That will certainly enhance the "washing properties."

Here's a different question: What is the price of a new water-cooled chiller?