ESP VP37

Hello.
Today, thanks to the descriptions here on the forum, I sealed the ESP VP37 pump on my 1999 Land Rover Freelander 2.0TD. After a total mileage of 160,000 km, of which 120,000 km were driven using rapeseed oil (a homemade dual-tank system).
It went very well.
Now, here are my questions.
1. I'm not able to rotate the pump when the drive wheel is mounted. Is it supposed to be this difficult?
2. There's a screw located on the side, just next to the ESP drive wheel. Underneath the screw, there's a thick metal plate. If you loosen the screw slightly, you can pull the plate out, and then you can fully screw the screw back in.
My initial thought was that the adjustment screw was the problem. If it's installed, set the pump to the 1-cylinder position, but since I have the engine correctly positioned at Top Dead Center for the 1-cylinder, and the camshaft timing mark is also correct. I can't see any indentation in the hole (where the screw is inserted).
What is the screw for?
Did I possibly misalign the pump during disassembly?
I haven't seen this type of screw with a metal plate used by other vehicle manufacturers with VP37.
How can I check if the pump is positioned correctly?
Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello" or "Greetings"
Ralf.

Oldie-Biker wrote:

1. I can't get the pump to rotate when the drive wheel is mounted, is it supposed to be this difficult?

The VP37 doesn't rotate that easily. However, they should be able to be turned manually with some effort. See point 2, however!

Oldie-Biker wrote:

2. I found a screw located close to the drive wheel of the ESP, with a thick metal plate underneath. If you loosen the screw slightly, you can pull out the plate and then fully tighten the screw.

This screw is used to lock the pump. Completely tightened = pump is blocked. This can be done in any position of the pump. The OT marking is located on the housing for VAG vehicles.

Question: Have you secured the pump, and that's why it's not turning?

Hello.
I didn't tighten the screw when I was trying to rotate the pump.
Apparently, it's very difficult, but I'll try again today.

I'm just not clear on how to set the basic OT (Output Torque) for the pump.
I can block the drive wheel of the ESP system on the Freelander using bolts.
However, I can mount the pump shaft with the cone in any position.
There is a groove on the cone, but not on the drive wheel. However, I found a small marking on the housing, next to the drive shaft.
Should they perhaps agree?
I didn't make any markings during the disassembly either, otherwise I could put everything back together exactly as it was.
Can the pump be turned backwards by hand, or will it be damaged if it is?
Regards,
Ralf

Oldie-Biker wrote:

There is a groove on the cone, but not on the drive gear; however, I found a small marking on the housing next to the drive shaft. Should they perhaps match?

I don't know. With VAG, there's a marking on the housing and on the drive wheel, and these must match each other. However, the VAG also has a groove in the drive wheel and a wedge, which means the wheel can only be inserted in one position.

Oldie-Biker wrote:

I also didn't make any markings during the disassembly...

That's a big mistake if you're not entirely sure what you're doing, or what to expect.

Oldie-Biker wrote:

Is it possible to turn the pump backwards by hand, or would that damage it?

Why would it, since that sometimes happens in the engine anyway.

Hi,
Could you please post some pictures of the pump and the areas being discussed (screw, drive wheel)?
Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.
Herbert.

Hello.
I'm unfortunately unable to upload images at the moment.
Attached is the drawing.
Sure, here's the translation:

"Where"
1. The location is where the screw is supposed to be, but it seems that this feature is not available on all models.
2. However, the marking should be located on the front side, behind the drive wheel.

Unfortunately, you can only see the casing and the screw, but not the ESP wheel itself.
Based on how you're describing the ESP (specifically, the nut on the pump shaft), it's a Mk1 model. Only, in that case, I would have expected a groove on the ESP wheel as well, and a spring in between .
Therefore, I would have been interested in seeing pictures of the installed pump (without the impeller) and of the impeller itself.
Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.
Herbert.

Hello.
The pump shaft has a groove, the impeller does not, and of course, neither does the spring.
Unfortunately, I can't show you any pictures right now; my wife damaged the USB cable.
Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello" or "Greetings"
Ralf.

Yes, that's correct, there is no shim installed.
"Under no circumstances should the pump body be detached from the camshaft, as this will interfere with the basic settings of the injection pump." "It is not possible to restore them using workshop tools."

fantomas wrote:

"Quote from the workshop manual: "Under no circumstances should the pump body be detached from the pump shaft, as this interferes with the basic setting of the injection pump. It is not possible to restore this setting using workshop tools."

I normally know this exact quote from the VP44. Are you sure you haven't mixed something up here? A VP37 can usually be adjusted repeatedly if you know how.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

I normally know that exact quote from the VP44. Are you sure you're not confusing it with something else? A VP37 can normally be adjusted repeatedly, if you know how.

No, I haven't mixed those up. This also applies to every VP37 with a two-piece impeller. Sure, you can reinstall it, but the Bosch service department also wants to have something to do, right?

Hi,
I had a vague suspicion that it might be a two-piece outfit, which is why I asked about the photos.
If that's the case, we can fix it. First, we need to figure out the correct orientation of the nozzle relative to cylinder 1 for the injection. It should be the same for every VP37. (Unfortunately, mine is installed, so I can't check.)
Observe the hub with the timing light and roughly adjust it by rotating the shaft. Then, it should be reasonably aligned with the timing mark for cylinder 1. Secure the pump in the correct position, hopefully using existing markings. Install the wheel in this ESP (Electronic Stability Program) position. There should be a marking on the wheel for the top position. Position the wheel so that the thorn can be inserted for locking.
hg
Herbert.

Hello.
The impeller is a one-piece design and can be fixed to the gearbox center plate using a mandrel.
What is done when replacing the belt.
I have measuring tools; I can machine the adapters. I assume that it goes into the central bore hole in the high-pressure section, between the outlets?
What are they adjusted to?
"At the beginning of the ascent?" Are there any production details available?
If the groove only needs to be on the top surface, it would be straightforward to achieve, and it would be positioned roughly at the 12 o'clock position.
I'm a bit confused by the small mark right next to the "Wedi" logo!
It's approximately 11 o'clock.
Sure, here's the translation:

"Hello" or "Greetings"
Ralf.

Hi Ralf,
It went wrong, and it probably would have happened to me too with a one-piece sprocket .
The manufacturer probably envisioned the pump replacement process as follows:
Disconnect everything from the outlet (OT) and then loosen the locking screw in the pump. Remove the metal plate with the U-shaped cutout from underneath, and then tighten the locking screw. Then you can perform all the work on the pump without anything getting misaligned.

It is incorrect to say that the pump shaft cannot be turned. It should be able to move back and forth approximately 3-4 belt teeth with little resistance = OK.

The marking at 11 o'clock is roughly correct; imagine that the groove in the shaft passes through the pump and should be located just before the high-pressure outlet A. The pump's rotation direction is counter-clockwise.

Unfortunately, there is a tolerance specification for the piston diameter of 0.XX mm, with a permissible variation of +/- 0.02 mm according to UT standards.

I suspect Heinrich from FMSO might know.

Best regards, Kurt.

Hi,
The central screw located between the connections on the high-pressure side is the sealing screw, behind which the pressure piston moves. You check the runout using a dial indicator, which is attached to an extension piece that replaces the locking screw and is fitted with an adapter.
The threaded hole likely has a fine thread, probably M10x1, just like mine. I made an adapter using a piece of MS round bar, 100mm long. A side set screw holds the shaft of the watch. The watch is installed with a slight amount of pre-tension. Make sure there is sufficient adjustment range.
When a properly assembled engine control system is used, you can determine the zero position of the injection plunger by rotating the crankshaft in the area before top dead center (TDC) of cylinder 1. Set the meter to zero at this point, then rotate the crankshaft to TDC and measure the stroke of the injection plunger. It should be approximately 0.6 - 0.7 mm for the TDI.
Now, let's apply this to your specific situation.
Before I go any further, I have a question: Do you see any signs of wear on the cone of the ESP wheel? Then you would have the mounting position.
Let's start by discussing this, assuming the ESP wave isn't somehow stuck.
- Mount the ESP so that the screws are centered in the elongated holes.
- The direction of the wave indicates towards the lid of the MSW (Material Sorting Waste), and this is where material is likely being fed in for cylinder 1 (assumption!).
- Install the pressure gauge;
- Tighten the pulley just enough so that the shaft can rotate with the pulley.
- Determine the zero position of the plunger by rotating the wave, and set the clock to zero at this point.
- Rotate the wave so that the gauge indicates the upward movement as shown above, and then lock it in that position using the side locking screw.
- Loosen the pulley (while holding it in place), then position the locating pin and fully assemble it.
- Release the wave lock.
That should ensure the ESP is installed correctly. Following that, the timing belt will be installed, and the adjustments will be made.
On my unit, the pulley has a marking on the front side that, when cylinder 1 is at TDC, points towards the MSW (magneto spark window) cover.
Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.
Herbert.