BLS Power Rail Filament Bulbs Defective - Replace

Hi

That's why I wanted to get the HU done quickly today, because it was due this month, and I thought I had some time.
With a 3-year-old diesel, it should also be quick.

It also went quickly, at least with the new license plate, because I didn't want to have to get a blind stop test, and all the HU tests were also done in 5 minutes... only the HU !!!

The stupid BLS keeps throwing out errors with the glow plugs - even though everything seems to be okay.
The error can even be found on Google, so it's probably not a one-off.
But that the glow plugs are relevant to emissions, I had forgotten.

So NO OBD-HU, but "kick it". Therefore, I have to get out of the garage and warm up the car first.
With 90 degrees Celsius water and 90 degrees Celsius oil, full throttle... first attempt and the tester (i.e. the Bosch box) was confused. The next four attempts were then terminated with 0.00 Russ.

Haha, I knew that too :(

At least I have now proven the effectiveness of the DPF
m;

The recurring error:
[quote]
Address 01: Motor Label file: RKS\03G-906-021-BLS.lbl
Engine part number: 03G 906 021 QJ HW: 03G 906 021 AB
Part and/or version: R4 1.9L EDC G000SG 1984
Coding: 0000072
Operating number: WSC 39799 133 20514
1 Fault found:

005660 - Glow plug cylinder 3 (Q12): Open circuit
P161C - 000 - - - Intermittent
Ambient conditions:
Fault status: 00110000
Fault priority: 3
Fault frequency: 5
Mileage: 126577 km
Time: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 10:13:32

Ambient conditions:
Speed: 819 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.52 V
Binary value: 00101100
Temperature: 15.3°C
Binary value: 10110000

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0
Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you want me to translate. I will translate only the readable text, leaving the HTML tags, BBCode tags, and URLs as they are.

Hi Martin,

Maybe the candle itself has a loose connection to the filament.
I would simply swap candle number 3 with a new one.

[quote]1984[/quote]
Is there a software update available?

Best regards, Rainer

I haven't wanted to bother with it so far, but I think I'll do it now.

I'll also probably consider an update, but that's always a hassle with appointments and the workshop, etc.

So, I'll get a new candle today.

But what's the difference between these two again:
N 10591602
N 10591603

m;

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH :(

This morning, there was still the Q3 error, and after deleting it, the "Trekker" was naturally "un Ready".
Even after a 30 km highway warm-up, it was still "un Ready".

Now, after I went to work from the TÜV this morning and then drove back through the city, it's "completely ready", meaning I could have saved myself the "inspection" check.

Damn, if I had only thought of this beforehand, I would have "ready-fared" it first.

This is a tip for everyone hoping for an EOBD inspection ;)

m;

Hi Martin,

laut autoteile.net sind die gleichen GK-Nummern für beide VAG-Teilenummern aufgeführt.

LG, Rainer

MIST

I bought the candle and cut the power cord, and HERE IS:

She has a problem with cylinder 3.
The terminal connector has slipped into the groove on Z3 and is also rattling (which 1, 2, and 4 don't do)

How is the 038 971 782 C connected to the cable harness?

There is still warranty on the unit...

Regards,
m;

Here's the translation:

In your case, the situation looks like this:

The wiring harness 038 971 782 C has been in use at VW since 2002, meaning in completely different models. The contact bridge comes as a spare part with a few meters of cable, meaning these are cut to length and connected as needed.

It's better to do it yourself; you can't trust VW workshops...

Diagram:

The four wires from the contact block go to the 14-pin compact connector near the left headlight:

Wire 1 sw/red --> T14/8
Wire 2 sw/blue --> T14/7
Wire 3 sw/green --> T14/6
Wire 4 sw/grey --> T14/5

From there, the cable runs to the glow plug control unit under the E-box --> "Relay" 457

Do you still have the contact numbers from the T14?

Thanks,
m;

Depending on the page, the cable itself has a cross-section of 1.5:

For the 1J0973837 (connector):
Here, there are 1.0 and 2.5 as repair cables: (Cables with 2 pins of this type!)
1.0:
000 979 132 and 000 979 134
2.5:
000 979 226

For the 1J0973737 (socket):
Here, there are 1.0 and 2.5 as repair cables: (Cables with 2 pins of this type!)
1.0:
000 979 131 and 000 979 133
2.5:
000 979 225

Here's the translation:

This looks good.

[b]
I'm wondering, because I have a crack directly at the GSK, where I connect the pipe.
I'm inclined to "very close to the slide," because then I have to disassemble as little as possible.
[/b]

Opinions?
m;

Waterproof 4-pole connector - easy to mount. You can find them in motor adapter parts stores, and that's all you need. I also like shrink hoses with a coating, but if the connector fails again, you'll be the king with this solution...

Best regards,
Roberto

Usually, the rail doesn't make a difference, and 15e isn't a significant amount for the part. Solder the new cables approximately 5-6cm behind the output of the old ones, and that's it.

5 cm from where?
From the T14 or from the end of the PU-track?

I would have soldered 5 cm behind the track, because the track definitely needs to be in place.
This way, I can save time by soldering the entire line to the T14.

P.S. The cable set costs 25 EUR.

5cm behind the rail, of course With shrink tubing, it's not an issue, as long as you don't use these cheap, quick-connect welding connectors! That's what VW uses for repairs.

Yep, that's how it's done.

Now I just need some time and light...
m;