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TomKri78 Guest
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13-05-2002, 16:08 Subject: Strong shaking when driving a Golf 3 TDI |
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Hello!
It's a Golf 3 TDI (90 hp), (year of manufacture 95). The problem started about a year ago. The car started to vibrate slightly, and at the time, everything seemed to point to a problem with the tires. But no, it turned out to be something else. Now, a year later, it's almost unbearable; you can practically start hiccupping. The vibration starts around 1400 rpm and continues up to 3000 rpm, whereas a year ago it was only up to 2400 rpm. After 3000 rpm, there's no more vibration. However, there is a way to find a specific position on the accelerator pedal where there is no more vibration, but it requires a lot of patience and feel. Once you've found this position, you must always maintain it, otherwise it's all for nothing. B. This position at 2000 RPM can be easily accelerated to the top speed without any issues. The shuddering itself also varies from day to day, for example, it is less noticeable in warmer weather. With a lot of luck and warm outdoor temperatures, it is even possible to shift a few times without problems, however, the prerequisite is always to maintain forward momentum.
The car was already in the workshop for this reason. The mechanics initially suspected a mechanical problem, so the entire clutch was replaced. The engine was re-tightened, as it was only hanging on by a thread due to all the jolting. According to the workshop, the gas pedal and throttle cable are also not the problem (tested). I also disconnected the LMM and drove in 'limp mode', but there was no change. The filters were, of course, swapped first, but even that didn't work.
I would be very grateful for your assistance!
Best regards, Tom |
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ulf Profi-Schrauber

Joined: 04/13/2002 Posts: 11058 Karma: +18 / -0 Location: Saarland 2023 MG ZS Premium Support
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13-05-2002, 20:47 Subject: NBF tests, etc. |
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Hi
what the workshop says, cannot always be taken as facts...
Therefore, I would like to test the NBF myself: a helper brings the (warm!) engine to approximately 3000 rpm while tapping against the NBF with a tool. If this causes the engine to stutter --> replace it.
Easier replacements are the main relay 109 and the LMM probe holder, which often cause jerky operation.
If the situation is quite embarrassing, the pump might also have a malfunction and continue to run further away from the factory settings - which, in my opinion, would most likely be associated with a changed power output. Have you noticed anything like this before? Gruß Ulf
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TomKri78 Guest
Free account, no CAN development support
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13-05-2002, 22:16 Subject: No perceptible performance change. |
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Hello Ulf!
Thank you for your advice, I will try that. But regarding the car's performance, there is nothing to complain about. Running perfectly normal.
Because I recently read that you are constantly in conflict with your VTG, I also need to address this with you. The car mentioned above is my father's. I also own the same one, a 110 PS Golf 3 (manufactured in 1997). I am also experiencing some difficulties with it. A few days ago, I replaced the LMM because the car, along with the chip tuning, no longer wanted to accelerate. Or, at best, it took up to 5 seconds for the boost to engage, and sometimes nothing happened at all. Every time I shifted gears, there were endless waiting times until the boost was finally back. This problem hasn't been fully resolved, because sometimes, especially when I drive longer distances, the turbo's response time always gets longer. Could it also be due to a stuck or difficult-to-operate VTG? If I let the car cool down or simply let it stand for a while, the turbo will immediately engage again (without any warm-up time).
Best regards, Tom |
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ulf Profi-Schrauber

Joined: 04/13/2002 Posts: 11058 Karma: +18 / -0 Location: Saarland 2023 MG ZS Premium Support
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14-05-2002, 16:21 Subject: VTG Problems |
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Hi
Quote: | | I also own the same one as you, namely a 110hp Golf 3 (manufactured in 1997). Sometimes, especially when I drive longer distances, the turbo response time becomes increasingly longer. Could this also be due to a stuck or difficult-to-operate VTG (valve timing gear)? If I let the car cool down or simply let it stand for a while, the turbo will immediately engage again (without any warm-up time). |
I recognize those symptoms in my own box. Therefore, I estimate that your VTG is also stuck.
I am currently experimenting with a continuously embedded "electronic bat" that is intended to maintain the VTG standard. Initially, it seems to be working, but I'm still in the experimental stage. Gruß Ulf
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