Sealing the MSW (Motor-Schwingung-Welle) of a VP37 engine in its installed state

Hello everyone,

My VP37 (1998 AFN) is leaking fuel at the seal where the MSW connects to the pump housing.

I'm confident enough to remove the MSW (Multi-Station Washer) while it's installed, replace the seal, and reinstall it on the housing.

However: The MSW is attached with 4 screws that run in elongated holes on the MSW, allowing for a loose movement of a few millimeters.
On the other hand, the amount of movement of the slide between idle and full throttle is quite small, in my opinion, less than the amount of movement possible due to the elongated holes.

From my experience, even slight deviations from the pump's target value can cause the MSG to issue an error and the yellow light to turn on.

Question:

Has anyone ever done this before without the pump needing to be put on a test stand afterward?

If so, how did he find the position of the quantity setting device again?

How critical is it, really?

'Die Sonne schien hell, als ich aus dem Haus ging. Der Himmel war blau und es gab keine Wolken. Ich fühlte mich glücklich und voller Energie.'

It's all explained in the technical articles.
Greetings.

That's explained in the technical articles on how to do it.
Greetings


Okay, here's the translation:

'So?' In which one?

If I had found something through searching, I wouldn't be asking.

Hi,
Look over there.
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.
/viewtopic.php?t=21803&highlight=mengenstellwerk
hg
Herbert.

Right next to the search bar, there's a section labeled "Fachartikel," and it's even written in red .

@ Thanks to Herbert, that's exactly what I was looking for.

He clearly managed to do it, so I can too.

And as I said - First measure - then screw - otherwise, it might happen that you have to have someone else install it, which can be expensive .
hg
Herbert.

I have now managed to seal my VP37 again.

I built a mechanical stop and adjusted it precisely using 0.1mm shims.

Then I screwed two bolts into the screw holes, using them as guide pins.

The rest was easy: carefully lift off the flow meter, replace the seal, carefully put it back on - and it's done.

The engine is running as before, without any problems.

Quote:

So, I built a mechanical stop, and I adjusted it precisely to 0.1 millimeters using a feeler gauge.

Well done, it certainly took longer, including measuring and building, than it would have taken to check the start/stop voltage or the idle injection amount using VCDS (5 minutes).