2.0 TDI BKD: Celebrate Piston Seizure After 7 Years?

I received a brand new BKD engine with a DSG transmission that had been sitting on a pallet for 7 years.

Result: A mouse has built a nest in front of the air intake, the engine cannot be turned over by hand, and the valves have some surface rust from the casting manifold.

I think the oil might have turned to sludge in the bearing housings, or that the DSG (dual-clutch transmission) is stuck. The belt drive looks like new. My question is, how should I deal with this annoying surface rust on the valves?

Würdet ihr den Kopf runternehmen und die Ventile und Ventilsitze reinigen? Das Problem sehe ich nur am 3. und 4. Zylinder abgasseitig. Die Ansaugseite sieht gut. Habe sowohl den Lader als auch die Ansaugbrücke ab. Das Öl sieht aus wie neu. IcPlease provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.


[img]/download.php?id=6585[/img]

[img]/download.php?id=6586[/img]

[img]/download.php?id=6587[/img]

Oh my god, please don't. I hope you got that pile of uncertainty for free.
Okay, you can probably fix everything you see. But as always, there are the PDEs (presumably referring to pressure differential elements or similar components) that are likely corroded internally. They haven't been emptied and need to be filled with a special oil if they've been out of service for a long time. And you can definitely get the loader working much better.
"If the valves look like the NW (presumably a specific part or brand), I would leave them as they are. Can the engine be turned over with a slight extension, like a 1/2" ratchet? Was this salvaged from a vehicle that was in an accident? Perhaps it's still connected to the DSG (dual-clutch transmission)."

Not really free...

How should I handle the PDEs? Should I remove them and put the nozzle tip in an ultrasonic cleaner? The valves have some more corrosion. The charger can't get back in there.

Deus Violentia wrote:

Not really a gift... How should I handle the PDEs? Should I remove them and put the nozzle tip in the ultrasonic cleaner? The valves have a bit more surface rust. The charger won't fit in there again.

Okay, I think that would be the least you could do. It also depends on what you plan to do with it. If it's for tinkering and you have plenty of time, you could try taking it apart without a PDE (Power Distribution Element) just to see how it is, since it's already a messed-up situation anyway.

Do the ingredients really go bad if this has been sitting out for so long?

It is not uncommon for the piston rings to become worn and lose contact with the cylinder walls after such a long period of inactivity.
rusted/stuck in place when the engine seizes.
Good luck.

Daran dachte ich auch. Okay, let's get rid of the turnip.
@BM: What are your thoughts on PDs (presumably referring to "Personal Development" or a similar term), or are there any other specialties that you think I should urgently investigate?

"It's not a must, but it might be a good idea. I know that the manufacturer fills and stores these with a special oil that definitely doesn't contain moisture or attract it. In my Caddy owner's manual, it states that if you use biodiesel, the vehicle should be driven at least once every two weeks."
That's enough for me to be cautious about anything that seems "outdated" or "old-fashioned."
But for experimenting or tinkering, you can always deal with that later; I don't know what you're planning to do.
Oh yeah, Uncle BM is absolutely right about that.

I have time. But I don't want to damage anything, so I definitely did NOT engage the starter motor connected to the transmission. If the pistons were stuck, they would have to be completely removed anyway, and the rings would need to be replaced, right?

If the piston rings are rusted, the cylinder liners are likely damaged as well. In that case, honing is the only solution, if it's even possible.

On Topic:
Is the mouse dead, or are you working so quietly that it's continuing its hibernation?
haithamina

The louder, the less skilled . The mouse was dead ^^ I just removed the tilt lever axis. I'm sending the parts to a diesel specialist; they should take a look at them.

Hello.

A while ago, I also took apart an engine that had been sitting unused for only 3 years.
It was always kept dry in a garage, and well... that's about it.
The engine was positioned in a way that the exhaust valve of the third cylinder was open, which likely allowed a significant amount of moisture into the cylinder.
The piston and/or the rings were so heavily corroded to the cylinder wall that the piston couldn't be removed, even with forceful hammering.
Similarly, the exhaust valves and the cylinder bore were so severely corroded that the engine block would have needed to be bored to the second oversize repair dimension.
A case for the trash can.

I would definitely, as a first step, take a deep breath and do an 'assessment.' That would be step 1 .

I wish you good luck with your endeavor!

das-weberli wrote:

Hello. A while ago, I also took apart an engine that had been sitting unused for only 3 years. It was always kept dry in a garage, and well... that's about it. A case for the trash can.

Hmm, it would actually be quite simple to modify a motor in a way that its metal parts would be durable and long-lasting (if you want or need to store a motor for several years).
"A little oil here and there, release the NW valve/vents, etc."
I'm eager to hear what will be reported about the DSG!
It's really strange how some people let things sit around and rot.
haithamina

Okay, my first rebuilt BKD engine with 43,000 km on it also sat around for at least 4 years, but it was in excellent condition and has now run for 65,000 km!

Head down, that's how I'll do it too!

To remove the timing chain, the RLF manual states that the hubs on which the timing chain pulleys are mounted should be pressed off from the conical seat of the crankshaft. Now, a question for those who have already done this or disassembled the timing chain:

Is this really necessary, or can the hub be removed without it? Between the ZK (presumably a component) and the rear of the hub on the NW (presumably another component), there's a plastic rear cover. It looks like the hub head might be able to slide past it. I have the correct special puller for the hubs, but when the puller's pressure piece is screwed in, it tightens the slightly loosened central screw of the NW by two turns, making it seem like it can't be loosened further. I'm hesitant to insert a piece of metal into the threaded hole of the NW so that the screw's tip rests on it, preventing it from being screwed in all the way.

What do you say?