My faithful Polo decided not to take me any further on the highway today.
Suddenly, I heard a "ping" sound, and the oil pressure warning light came on. I pulled over and checked the oil level. The oil level was fine. So, I started the engine again and tried to continue driving. I thought it might have just been a faulty reading from the oil pressure sensor or something similar.
After a short drive, the light came on again and the engine showed a loss of power.
The Polo was then towed away (it was a four-hour ordeal, but I met some nice people!).
I'm now thinking it's probably a faulty oil pump. I also listened to the engine again. I'll try to upload an audio sample.
What do you think? It sounds like there might be a problem in the area of the cylinder head.
I'm now unsure about what to do next: Should I remove the valve cover and inspect the camshaft, or should I order a new oil pump right away?
Here's the error scan:
Code:
Samstag,29,Juli,2017,01:48:49:25065
VCDS -- Windows-basierter VAG/VAS-Emulator l‰uft auf Windows XP x86
VCDS Version: RKS 16.8.3.4
Datenstand: 20161124 DS267.0
http://shop.dieselschrauber.de
The rattling noises coming from the area of the cylinder head are likely caused by collapsed hydraulic lifters. The engine seems to be lacking oil lubrication, so you shouldn't run it unnecessarily for any tests.
hg
Herbert.
Horch A4 8K CJCD
Golf 7 DDYA
(+ Audi 80 Avant B4 1Z 475Tkm - habe ich vom ersten bis zum letzten Tag gerne gefahren)
(+ Passat Variant 32B CY 400Tkm)
Regarding the mileage, it might be a worn-out timing chain (I'm not sure if this affects the 3-cylinder engines), and possibly sticking hydraulic lifters, which could also lead to lower oil pressure, although I haven't experienced that yet; it's just a theory. If you remove the valve cover, check if the oil seals are present on the camshaft. (I only know about this from the 4-cylinder engines). However, the mass airflow sensor should detect this.
The rattling noises coming from the area of the cylinder head are likely caused by collapsed hydraulic lifters. The engine seems to have no oil supply, so you shouldn't run it unnecessarily for pointless tests.
hg
Herbert
.
Thank you for the tip!
I thought I could run a test without too much risk because the oil pressure warning light doesn't come on when the engine is idling.
Considering the mileage, it might be a worn-out timing chain (I don't know if the 3-cylinder engines are affected by this) and hydraulic lifters that are leaking, which could potentially lead to lower oil pressure, although I haven't experienced that yet; it's just a theory. If you remove the valve cover, also check if the oil seals are present on the camshaft. (I only know about this from the 4-cylinder engines). However, the mass airflow sensor should detect this.
I replaced the camshaft and lifters 20,000 km ago... I already know the sound of a faulty lifter!
"Oil cap doesn't mean anything to me, but I'll open it up and remove the oil pan."
I'd like to measure the oil pressure using a gauge. Disconnect the oil pressure switch and connect the gauge directly. Remove the oil pan and check the strainer at the suction port for any blockages; these often get clogged over time.
"There have also been frequent cases of broken timing chains in the balance shaft module, particularly in the 1.4 TDI engines found in the 9N and similar models."
The oil pump is also driven by the chain, which usually sits inside the oil pan.
The automatic gearbox (AGW) and oil pump would stop working. This would prevent the engine from starting.
Remove the bathtub, replace the chain and tensioner, and it should run for a while longer.
provided that the cylinder liners and connecting rod bearings are still in good condition.
But be careful: the AGW (automatic gear warmer) must be brought to a standstill with the engine in a specific position before the chain can be pulled.
Regards,
Mpire
AGW_1,4PD.JPG
Description:
Engine Failure Help: Oil Pressure Light?
File size:
1.65 MB
Viewed:
5671 times
fehlen Dir die Worte, entscheiden die Taten!
_______________________________________
A6 4F5 (ASB 08/06) Lupo TDI (AMF 04/00)
Honda VFR 800 FI / Cagiva Gran Canyon 900ie
There have also been frequent cases of broken chains on the balance shaft module, particularly in the 1.4 TDI engines in the 9N and similar models.
The oil pump is also driven by the chain, which usually sits inside the oil pan.
The automatic gearbox (AGW) and oil pump would stop working. This would prevent the engine from starting.
Remove the bathtub, replace the chain and tensioner, and it should run for a while longer.
provided that the cylinder liners and connecting rod bearings are still in good condition.
But be careful: the AGW (automatic gear warmer) must be brought to a standstill with the engine in a specific position before the chain can be pulled.
Greetings Mpire
.
Hello Mpire,
Thank you for the tip and the encouraging words!
I'm a bit worried now, after the recent descriptions, that the engine may have sustained further damage as a result of the renewed test drive (see above).
What kind of damage can a motor sustain when it's running with little or no oil? When I let the engine idle, I also looked into the oil filler opening, and it definitely didn't look dry in there...
There have also been frequent cases of broken chains on the balance shaft module, especially in the 1.4 TDI engines in the 9N and similar models.
The oil pump is also driven by the chain, which usually sits inside the oil pan.
The automatic gearbox (AGW) and oil pump would stop working. This would prevent the engine from starting.
Remove the bathtub, replace the chain and tensioner, and it should run for a while longer.
provided that the cylinder liners and connecting rod bearings are still in good condition.
But be careful: the AGW (automatic gear warmer) must be brought to a standstill with the engine in a specific position before the chain can be pulled.
Greetings Mpire
.
Hello Mpire!
Your guess was spot on: the chain broke!
Zusätzlich ist ein Zahn vom Zahnrad der Ausgleichswelle abgebrochen - vgl. Photo.
My question to you or anyone else who can help (thank you in advance!):
According to the Volkswagen manual (which I have), I need to remove the balance shaft. To do that, I also need to remove the sealing flange, and to remove the sealing flange, I need to remove the timing belt.
Is that really the case? It wouldn't be a big deal; I've done it multiple times before with my Polo.
And another question about the special tools required: Are all of the tools listed in the VW manual absolutely necessary, or can some of them be substituted with alternatives? I already have the locking tool for timing belt replacement.
What surprises me is that the chain didn't destroy everything around it... Was I lucky? Or do I need to investigate this further? At least, in the oil pan, there was only the broken tooth and small pieces (presumably from the chain).
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