VW Golf 3 AFN simply won't start anymore

Dear Sir or Madam,

My VW Golf 3 AFN with 110 horsepower has been giving me increasing problems lately, and to be honest, I'm at a loss.

The problems started about 2 years ago when the car suddenly went into emergency mode. After about 9 months, the error in the engine control unit was identified as "injection timing control 27-10, implausible signal." To temporarily bypass the problem, we adjusted the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) to control the fuel injection – this worked, and the car no longer ran in emergency mode. The car then remained parked for about 2 months.

When I tried to start it again after these 2 months, it wouldn't start. After about 10 seconds of cranking with starting fluid, it would eventually start, but it sometimes had problems at full throttle: suddenly, white smoke, unclear changes in boost pressure, and severe jerking. I had to turn the car off and restart it.

After another 5 months, during which the car could only be started with starting fluid and continued to have the aforementioned problems, I discovered that it was no longer preheating, or that the preheating spiral only glowed for about 1 second. Upon inspection, I found a blown 30-amp fuse on the splash panel, which I replaced, but that didn't change anything. Through research in forums and on the internet, I came across the possibility that the 4-pin coolant temperature sensor might be the problem. After replacing it, the car suddenly started, but the problems persisted, especially on the 4th attempt. Full throttle.

After reading the error memory again, I discovered that the error had reappeared. After resetting the ESP and adjusting it to the correct value, the error disappeared. However, during a test drive, a strange phenomenon occurred again: a peculiar noise, white or blue smoke, and the engine stopped responding to the accelerator, ran unevenly, and stalled. Since then, I haven't been able to get it to work.

I have already checked various components, including the crankshaft bolt, the timing belt tensioner, the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) on the camshaft wheel, the camshaft wheel itself, the valve N108 (15 ohms), the throttle position sensor (TPS) (104 ohms in the first measurement, 96 ohms in the second), and I have cleared the error related to the immobilizer – "data line defect, implausible signal." There are currently no error codes present in the engine control unit.

I am writing to you in the hope of receiving specialized assistance, as I am honestly at a loss for what to do next. The situation is putting a lot of financial and emotional strain on me.

Please help me.

I've replaced a few barrels in your MG3, just to prevent the barrel from overheating.

Edit2: Great, the AI can do even more!

Hi!

So, at warmer temperatures, the engine should start without any problems, even without preheating.

You will often see this error related to the immobilizer system on vehicles of this type. It happens from time to time.



If I read this, I would suggest checking the fuel supply.
Close the filter, something is leaking, the pipe is damaged, is something dripping somewhere?
Filter connections, condensate drain valve.
Also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also, also,

There are no real error entries in that case either.

Okay, thank you very much.
Okay, I'll try to put in a new filter sometime when I have the time. I've only ever used the good diesel, specifically B0. I don't think there are any leaks, as I can't see anything suspicious anywhere.

I can't imagine the wiring is broken; I was driving normally just before the ESP came on, or yesterday, for example. I definitely drove about 25 km without any problems, but it was with the incorrect ESP setting, which I couldn't leave like that, so I turned it back to the default position.

I'm not seeing any drips anywhere, and I'm not sure where I can check the fuel pump. Is there a way to test it separately? I'm wondering if there's an electronic diesel pump somewhere in between. The diesel fuel is probably a bit old, maybe about two years. But I can't imagine that, especially since I just filled it up with gas and, as I said, drove it 25 km yesterday.

As I said, all of this just happened today. Before the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) engaged, I turned the steering wheel to the right to adjust the value to 60. I drove about 5 km to warm up the system. Then, I adjusted it again, turning the steering wheel to the right towards the locking mechanism to clear the "injection start control" error. And so, after that, the error no longer appeared.
Car parked.
Let it idle for 5 seconds, then started it and drove about 1 km. I gave it gas in 4th gear, and then the problem occurred. Since then, I haven't been able to get it running again.
Maybe. Do you have any other ideas about what it could be?
Thank you very much in advance.

Simply administer Fall-Diesel intravenously to VP 37.

Hello!

I've also had diesel in my T4 van for the past 2 years.
When the war in Ukraine started, I filled up the tank completely because I thought there might not be any gasoline available anymore, or that it would become even more expensive.
Two weeks ago, he was completely gone.
Absolutely no problems, and it was just regular diesel fuel.

Also, the distribution pumps have a transparent hose as the inlet.

Sometimes, a tiny air bubble drifts back and forth.
But if you see a lot of air bubbles, you can definitely conclude that something is not okay with the fuel supply.
You could take a look at that too. That's the simplest thing.
When the engine is running, or when attempting to start it.

Then, 1 or 2 covers on the pump housing are also sealed with rubber O-rings.
"One of the injectors on my ALH just randomly started leaking."
It then dripped out of there.

Hey, it's me again with some news.
Today, I tested and checked several things. The turbocharger seems to be fine. I removed the fuel filler cap while cranking the engine, and I also connected a battery charger to prevent any power issues. I also removed the electronic magnetic valve and tested its function, but for now, I've installed it without the pin, spring, and O-ring, and plugged in the single-pin connector to avoid any potential problems. Then, I examined the clear hose more closely and noticed a bubble of about 1 cm. After that, I checked the check valve on the return line at the diesel filter, and only then was there more air in the clear hose, which makes sense. Okay, so I tried using a manual vacuum pump on the intake line before the filter, and it sucked out some diesel fuel.
After that, we placed an extra hose into a container of diesel and checked if the pump would automatically start suctioning. It did, and it also sucked diesel from the container, but the amount being drawn was less.
We initially opened the injectors, but only the injector on the third cylinder showed some leakage near the needle valve sensor, while the others were dry. However, after running the engine, some fluid came out of each injector.
He coughed a few times, as if he was trying to, but he just couldn't manage it.
My cousin keeps saying it's definitely the N108, but I already measured its resistance, and as I said, it came out to be 15 ohms.
I've already checked the relay 109, and it seems to be in relatively good condition.
I've also been wondering if there might be an issue with the valve timing, but if that were the case, I wouldn't have been able to drive forward after the ESP engaged, or the engine would have stalled. However, I'm sure the engine was running correctly at the correct value (60) for a minute before I stopped. Then I turned it off after 5 seconds. After driving 1km, it started making a strange cracking noise, as if some part was suddenly shifting and locking up, and simply refusing to work.
It just makes me even more suspicious that such a simple car like a Golf can drive me to despair, considering it has such basic technology.

"I've also noticed that the check valve or anti-return valve on the top of the diesel filter is moving back and forth quite a bit. Could this be because it's not sealing properly?" If you don't understand what I'm talking about, please refer to the image I've attached. Also, the old filter is still in place, and I've also loosened and drained some water from the condensate drain valve at the bottom of the filter.

What I also forgot to mention about how the phenomenon started is that the smoke was initially completely blue. And now, when it comes to playing the organ, white is the key.

Checked the valve timing?

No, I haven't done that before. Is there a way to do it without removing the valve cover? Can you really imagine that the valve timing could suddenly change? Finally, before this, I had driven for 1 km and previously checked the voltage, the ESP system, the camshaft pulley, and the crankshaft pulley to ensure that nothing was loose.

The quick-release lever on the wheel doesn't necessarily have to be loose for the wheel to become misaligned.

It shouldn't be a problem to loosen the three M6 nuts and remove the valve cover.

It's different from other cars, especially at children's birthday parties organized by AFN.

Before I start wandering aimlessly, I'll check the basics.

Could it be that, while checking something and only disconnecting the fuel injection pump, I might have accidentally rotated the camshaft a little bit? Because it's only loosely attached to the camshaft, almost without a keyway or any other type of groove. When tightening it, I wouldn't have noticed much, at least not according to my feeling – it felt kind of tight. But why did I drive another 1 km then?

Josi088 wrote:

Could it be that, while checking something and only disconnecting the fuel injection pump, I might have accidentally rotated the camshaft a little bit? Because it's only loosely attached to the camshaft, almost without a keyway or any other type of groove. When tightening it, I certainly wouldn't have noticed much, at least according to my feeling – it felt somehow tight. But why did I then drive another 1 km?

Well written . Now you just need to get out of your posting loop.

Okay, I just checked the timing marks. The camshaft aligns perfectly with the engine case, but the mark on the crankshaft is off by about 5mm. Do you think that's the problem? Should I try re-aligning the timing belt?

Okay.

"Could you please record a short video with your phone of the engine during a start-up attempt (someone else needs to be in the car), paying particular attention to the audio. Also, record the "smoke" coming from the exhaust." Who knows...

Sure, here's the translation:

"LG" translates to "Best regards" or "Sincerely" in English.

We're going to try running it separately with a 12V pump now and see how it works out.
Here's a video of the organ playing, attached.

Okay, here's the translation:

"And one more thing about the Golf: unfortunately, it also won't start with an external pump."
What I've also found out is that when I only turn the ignition on, relay 109 clicks along with something else in the engine compartment, and the clicking stops on its own after about 5 seconds. The single-pole cable from the disconnect switch is also connected to the switch, and it stops functioning at the same time.