Testing and Adjustment of the TDI 1.9L Distributor Injection Pump

Hello,
I'm new to the community.
My timing belt tension seems to be off (or not correct anymore).
(I own a Volkswagen Golf III Avenue with air conditioning, a 1.9L TDI engine, 66kW, engine code 1Z; it has 40,000 km until the next timing belt replacement).
because the notches on the tensioning roller are offset by several millimeters.
(also after manually relieving/reducing the tension on the timing belt).
I have read some articles on this website regarding this topic, especially...
'Read and understood the instructions for checking and adjusting the TDI 1.9L distributor injection pump.'
connected an analog voltage meter (readable from inside the vehicle),
to see how well the statements made in the article can be verified.
Everything is very accurate (the needle jumps more often when the engine is cold).


The open questions regarding this are:
- Are those few millimeters on the tensioner really that bad?
'that I have to tighten something?'

- In the technical article, it sounds like the ESP is also being used with the help of...
The diagnostic adapter and VAG-COM method are used in a reversed manner to make the adjustment.
Why am I asking this, considering that the following is also stated in the article:
'The same thing can happen if the intended start time for the injection is modified through software adaptation.'
(The VAG-Com) is moved without the basic settings being adjusted accordingly.
'is being corrected.'
It would be simpler and more elegant to make the adjustments using software.

Sure, here's the translation:

'Hey bro, what's up?'

It would be simpler and more elegant to make the adjustment via software.
greetings broesel

thinking error!

All mechanical injection systems are based on a cam-operated system, meaning that the injection element is moved by a cam. When the cam rises, this determines the earliest possible start of injection. This is an absolute and purely mechanical process.
To enable injection timing adjustment, one approach is to delay the start of fuel delivery by the quantity control system. Alternatively, the position of the cam (by rotating the camshaft in a rotary pump or the roller ring in a distributor pump) can be adjusted. This creates a range within which the start of fuel delivery can be varied. The width of this adjustment range is mechanically predetermined and cannot be changed.
However, if the pump is mechanically adjusted, the entire control range shifts accordingly. For example, if you rotate the pump 10 degrees, the control range also shifts absolutely 10 degrees. This can result in the control range being insufficient to achieve a desired delayed injection start.
The mechanical pump setting ensures that the pump is mechanically positioned in the middle of the control range, allowing the electronics to utilize the appropriate range.
The injection start control system always attempts to set the specified value, regardless of the pump's position. Changing the setpoint value using the diagnostic system has no effect here, because it doesn't alter the mechanical components.

CU Gremlin.

broesel wrote:

- Are those few millimeters on the tensioner really that bad? that I have to tighten it?

Hi Broesel,

Did you check the voltage while the crankshaft was at TDC for cylinder 1 [img][/img]? Did you properly press down the timing belt with your thumbs between the camshaft and the crankshaft before taking the reading [img][/img]? Also, the timing belt expands slightly over time, which can lead to errors in the tensioner indicator. If it were too loosely tensioned, the belt would already show significant signs of wear on the edges after a certain mileage (50,000 km?). :http://www.smiliemania.de/smilie.php?smile_ID=113{MARKER}http://www.smiliemania.de/smilie.php?smile_ID=109{MARKER}

@ Gremlin:
Thank you for the comprehensive explanation.


@Haehnlein:
I didn't make it 'complicated' like that, but rather as described in the book 'Jetzt helfe ich mir selbst': without adjusting the tensioner and without forcing anything between the tensioner pulley and the belt.
I couldn't detect any signs of wear on the timing belt.
By the way, the car has 230,000 kilometers on the odometer.
Shouldn't the timing chain also be re-tensioned after natural stretching (due to mileage), since the risk of a tooth jumping increases as the timing chain becomes looser; and the same applies to the 'whiplash effect'?

Where are the screws for adjusting the ESP (or is the impeller adjusted in the Golf 1Z)?

How likely is it that you will need to adjust the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) when tightening the timing chain and camshaft, and securing the ESP?
(Can I check if the setting is correct using an analog meter?)

What symptoms should one expect if the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) is incorrectly configured?

Hi broesel,

broesel wrote:

Without OT adjustment and without pressing between the tensioner and the inner race.

Hi Brösel,

Okay, then there's no point in continuing this discussion. Check the markings on the tensioner pulley after a new timing belt replacement->they are always completely off unless you check them as prescribed [img][/img].

broesel wrote:

Where are the screws to adjust the ESP (or is the impeller adjusted on the Golf 1Z)?

three at the front of the pump impeller, one located below the fuel injector connection (see technical article).

broesel wrote:

How likely is it, actually, that you will need to adjust the ESP

after tightening [img](the camshaft and ESP are locked) [/img]?
(I can then check if the setting is correct using the analog meter)?

First, retighten http://www.smiliemania.de/smilie.php?smile_ID=280{MARKER} after you have properly checked http://www.smiliemania.de/smilie.php?smile_ID=1776{MARKER}. The valve timing will change slightly.

I cannot tell you how much the timing belt stretches. But definitely not to such an extreme extent that the tension is completely off .