Performance loss Golf TDI PD, Year 2001, 115 hp

Hello

@ Ulf: hello Ulf, you already helped me with this problem via email.

Honestly, I had to try a few times to answer the questions for registration.
However, I promise not to post anything completely absurd

Following Problem:
Performance loss starting around 3000 RPM, no noticeable acceleration after 1600 RPM, Vmax measured with GPS during a straight run at 187 km/h (after a very long straight run)
Upside down, the performance is okay.

Completed Measures:
Air, oil, and fuel filters replaced, catalytic converter replaced (due to suspicion of a stiff VTG - valve adjustment), AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system closed off with a metal plate, all without success.

Hoses look good after visual inspection, no damage or dents.
Accurate measurement without any errors

I noticed when I removed the AGR valve and took a look at the intake manifold that there was a fairly thick, oily sludge layer (approximately 1-1.5 mm) inside it.
As far as I got, I removed the object, but then the pipe makes a bend...

Questions:
Does anyone have a repair manual, or a guide on how to remove the intake manifold for thorough cleaning, or a general repair manual (I saw one somewhere as a PDF, but I don't remember where)?

Could it be that the narrowing caused by dirt has such a drastic impact on performance?

Any other ideas?


I am grateful for any tip.

PS: I just bought the car, the previous owner only drove it in city traffic, with only 25,000 km.

Greetings

Frank

Hi,

The registration process is the first hurdle, and the second is the search function, which is more difficult. The trick is to find the right keywords.

In this case, you should search under 'Engine, Transmission and Electrical' for 'Steam Cleaner' and 'Grandmother', and then it's done!

And for further clarification: It's not difficult, just take your time and look closely, and it will work out.

@ Garth:

Thank you for the helpful tips.
I believe I have presented my problem quite clearly.

All the measures taken so far are the result of weeks of searching in relevant forums, including this one.

Before you assume that I haven't used the search function, please read my post carefully again.

If the solution is already clear to you and you think I might have missed something, please don't hesitate to let us know here.

Greetings

Frank

So, that wasn't meant to be taken so seriously.

Finding the right keywords is the problem, and these are the ones I want to give you.
Sorry

@ garth :
Okay,



Does anyone perhaps have acceleration and elasticity values, especially from higher speed ranges, e.g., 140 km/h - 180 km/h?

What is the normal speed of the car according to the speedometer?

Golf IV 115 PS TDI PD AJM 6-Gang, Year of Manufacture 2/01

Greetings

Frank

According to Taucho on my AJM: 215 km/h during extended straight-line driving...

Hello,

My Golf IV AJM managed to reach approximately 200 km/h on a straight road before the installation of a Powerbox, using the original 205/55 R16 wheels. Occasionally, it would reach 205 km/h. There was no other way to go down, so I was then also following closely behind a 320d at 225 km/h on the speedometer.
Also, even at speeds of 160 km/h, there was no significant acceleration.
I also had difficulty keeping up with a 110PS TDI, probably due to the long 6th gear in the AJM.

I also had the opportunity to drive several Golf IV AJM vehicles as a business rental. And even among those, none reached speeds of 200-205 km/h.

Since installing the box, I'm achieving approximately 210-215 km/h on the straight.

I think you should properly inspect the vehicle first, after it has been used in urban traffic for over 25,000 km, as written.

Do you have the ability to log data blocks during the drive? That could shed more light on the matter.

Thank you to everyone

By the way, I also asked VW for fuel consumption figures (twice). If you're interested, here are the second set. Request and the Answer:

Request
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
'Hello'
I made a request at this location 14 days ago and haven't received any {RESPONSE}.
Received.
Please answer my question!
I have a Golf IV TDI 115 hp, manufactured in 2001, with a pump-injector system, which is running too slowly.
is.
Please provide me with detailed performance data.
Very important: not just acceleration from 0 to 100, but
Elasticity values,
e.g. from 80-120 in 4th gear, from 120-160..., especially acceleration values in
The upper speed range is of particular interest to me, as it offers a significant performance boost from 3000 RPM onwards.
'Loch' has.
You must have these values!
I have already been to the workshop 6 times since the purchase 4 weeks ago with the
Car and everything else was replaced.
I would like to see in black and white how the current values compare to the
Should-Values behavior.

Bitte antworten Sie !
'Friendly Greetings'
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answer:

' We have provided you with some technical data for the Golf 4TDI with 85 kW
compiled. However, driving performance charts are internal and are
Exclusively for our research and development purposes. Therefore, we request
we ask for your understanding.

Maximum speed approximately 195 km/h

Acceleration 0-80 km/h approximately 6.9 sec

Acceleration 0-100km/h approximately 10.3 sec

In any case, we recommend having your golf serviced by a Volkswagen partner.
to be verified. There may be a system error that is causing the
Restricts performance.

We are attaching a torque diagram to this letter and hope that it is helpful to you.
with these information to help.

Best regards... '
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Great answer, or? - useful and meaningful at the same time.
Driving performance charts?!

Greetings

Frank

Hi maxxx,

Without meaningful VAG-COM logs, no one here can really help you.
The final speed is heavily dependent on the tires, headwind, load, etc. If you have achieved real 185 kmh using GPS, that seems relatively normal to me (based on the speedometer estimate, about 10-15 kmh more). Deposits in the intake tract are okay up to a certain level due to the presence of the AGR. I would still consider 1-1.5 mm as normal. What I don't understand in your post is that you had to replace expensive parts like the LMM and the turbocharger. Was this done by a VAG workshop? Do you have records of the test drives that led to the replacement of these parts? If so, please post it.

@ marco :

I'll be taking the car back to the workshop tomorrow.
I will ask the master to provide logs from a measurement trip.

185 genuine km/h are quite dismal, and I have to drive 5 km to reach them.
the speedometer then shows around 192, it doesn't go any higher when accelerating.
at 160, as already mentioned, there is no noticeable acceleration, but even at slight inclines, acceleration starts at 140.

lmm was replaced because it was actually broken; previously, the performance was even worse.
The turbo was replaced because, after a test drive, the boost pressure was relatively high even at low engine speeds (1.6 bar), and then dropped significantly after 3000 RPM.

the master explained to me that the Vtg regulation was difficult to implement, and the engine went into emergency mode, which caused the rapid pressure drop.
(hopefully I have reproduced it quite accurately)

The LMM and loader were replaced by a VW workshop (70% warranty), the diagnosis of the difficult-to-operate VTG control unit was carried out by a specialist company that only does tuning and provides expert opinions, and is actively involved in motorsport.

can I temporarily disconnect the cat somewhere to check if it's not causing a short circuit?

hello

frank

Hi maxxx,

Usually, just tapping on the cat (the device) is enough to identify the problem. If you hear a 'schepp' sound, it means the monolith has detached from the housing and is causing a buildup of exhaust gases. A defective cat can also be recognized by an unusually strong actuation of the VTG's magnetic valve.

hi marco

A faulty cat can also be recognized by an unusually strong actuation of the VTG valve magnet.

can you explain it? what does the unusually strong drive, too much pressure, cause? - maybe the wrong conclusion about difficult components?

hello

frank

Hi Maxxx,

Due to the accumulated exhaust gases, it has become more difficult for the charger to build up the required boost pressure for the current operating condition. The MSG now attempts to compensate for this boost pressure shortage by more precisely controlling the solenoid valve for the VTG. Specifically, the proportioning of the solenoid valve for VTG adjustment in relation to the boost pressure is different from normal conditions. I can't explain it any better, maybe other forum users have better explanations.

Hi Maxxx,
Okay, I have the same car as you (AJM, 6-speed) and I'm a little surprised by your post, because I noticed the same thing. However, I thought it was normal.
I once drove a 130 hp Passat and was surprised that it still had good performance even at the higher RPM range. However, I attributed this to the additional 15 hp.
If you have a solution, it would be great if you could post it or send me an email.
Best regards, Markus

What are the effects of unusually high current/excessive pressure?
The pressure is regulated, and the unusual sharp control is only initiated by MSG if there is too little pressure (and not too much, as in your case).

- possibly a faulty conclusion regarding difficult transmission?
Too much pressure, as you're writing, doesn't indicate a blocked exhaust pipe, then you would have too little pressure.

Everything else is just guesswork, take a trip to the church, otherwise this won't work anymore. It's quite simple, build a diagnostic adapter (or have the next radio and TV technician build one for you), the parts cost around 10 euros. See /viewtopic.php?t=3089

Compared to the amount of money you've already invested in the workshop, this is a joke.

Then we can really help you.

Greetings
Private

Hello,

10 euros are only sufficient for PCBs and a basic version without proper diagnostic connectors.
So entweder eine der zahlreichen Anleitungen aus dem Diagnosefachartikel nachbauen,
or visit our online shop at http://shop.dieselschrauber.de/ and place your order.
In the shop, in addition to a complete kit (containing a pre-etched PCB, all necessary components, a 'proper' diagnostic connector for automotive use, a CD with assembly instructions, and the shareware versions of VAG-COM, VagScope, and TDIGraph), there are also OBD Plug-and-Play systems available.

Hello, Rainer